Looking for rear driveshaft

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Joined
Feb 9, 2024
Messages
63
Location
Richmond, TX
I’ve had a slight oscillating roar sound, since i bought my ‘99 Land Cruiser,(UZJ, 180k on the clock) it’s gotten steadily worse. i did the trick of removing the rear driveshaft and the sound/roar completely went away, drive line angles are dead on, so i’m assuming the rear shaft is the issue.

Tried to order a new OEM driveshaft for it, and was told by my usual Toyota online parts source, that there were none in the country. I’m not even sure of the actual part number for the complete shaft.

getting two different numbers:

371106A060 (number I was trying to order)
371106A610

Any thoughts on this ‘none in the country’ business? I have two OEM u-joints on the way, but would rather get an entire shaft for it.

I plan to install the new u-joints in this shaft, while i chase down a new shaft (if needed). I’ve found several threads on changing the u-joints, however, I’ve searched the site to find more info on the circlip sizing issues, but can’t seem to find a thread? Any links to this would be helpful.

Thanks for a great forum for our machines. Don’t know what i would do without you all.

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This guy, his name is Steve. He Parts-Out many 100's (So used, not new)
He has a thread in Parting Out Classifieds but it's better to contact him directly.
No website.


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You could also take yours or a "new" used to a driveline specialist and have it balanced. Or checked for balance-ability.
 
i've replaced U joints on a driveshaft, and it's not too difficult. I would do that, and take it to a machine shop afterwards to have it balanced.
 
This guy, his name is Steve. He Parts-Out many 100's (So used, not new)
He has a thread in Parting Out Classifieds but it's better to contact him directly.
No website.


View attachment 3771918

You could also take yours or a "new" used to a driveline specialist and have it balanced. Or checked for balance-ability.
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind.
 
i've replaced U joints on a driveshaft, and it's not too difficult. I would do that, and take it to a machine shop afterwards to have it balanced.
I'm planning on doing that first, but the way my luck has been lately...
 
U-joints looked fine, nothing dry, but you never know. I did find out that the rear shaft was one tooth out of phase.. I wonder if that caused this issue? Regardless, got the old UJs out easy enough with my ball joint press, i’ll be installing the new ones tomorrow when they arrive.
 
37110-6A060 supersedes to 37110-6A610. "None in the country" doesn't mean they are NLA, it just means there are on backorder. Order one up for your truck and you will get it at some point
 
Can you post pictures of your driveline angles? I would swear mine don't match, which is weird, because I'm stock height & nothing is bent...
I can try. Not sure how i would use my circular protractor thing, and get a photo… maybe I can talk the mrs. into crawling under with me.
 
LJE, i couldn’t get a photo, sorry, but my driveline angles, even after the 2.5” lift, are within a degree or so. I use a round protractor device i’ve owned for years for this purpose, doing engine swaps, rear end swaps in many vehicles. I hope that helps.

Matt, my luck must be changing. I feel like the king of Toyota Mountain today, replacing the u-joints, and greasing the daylights out of the shaft, as well as putting it that one tooth back into phase has been the ticket. Driveline roar is GONE.

Thanks again for this wonderful forum and members. I’ll keep doing my best to contribute.
 
LJE, i couldn’t get a photo, sorry, but my driveline angles, even after the 2.5” lift, are within a degree or so. I use a round protractor device i’ve owned for years for this purpose, doing engine swaps, rear end swaps in many vehicles. I hope that helps.

Matt, my luck must be changing. I feel like the king of Toyota Mountain today, replacing the u-joints, and greasing the daylights out of the shaft, as well as putting it that one tooth back into phase has been the ticket. Driveline roar is GONE.

Thanks again for this wonderful forum and members. I’ll keep doing my best to contribute.

In my experience, u joints won't always visually present as bad. Even holding the shaft in your hand and moving the joint around, you may not feel like it's bad until you do the same with the new joint. They shouldn't be floppy, they should be somewhat snug and not move around a whole lot without intent.

And being out of phase is definitely a way to get vibes. Doesn't matter about installing the shaft in the truck the exact way it came out, but having both ends in phase is important. Glad you had a successful fix here!
 
I show 26 available of the sub PN ***A610. You should have by mid next week! $512 plus shipping.
Note: I used a 1998 USA 100 series VIN #. You should use your VIN # to find parts and order.

If no dent on old aft propeller shaft and splines of slip yoke and the seal good. I'd install new OEM spiders, aligning grease zerks. Give it a try.
 
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I show 26 available of the sub PN ***A610. You should have by mid next week! $512 plus shipping.
Note: I used a 1998 USA 100 series VIN #. You should use your VIN # to find parts and order.

If no dent on old aft propeller shaft and splines of slip yoke good and the seal
I'd install new OEM spiders, aligning grease zerks. Give it a try.
Yep, that’s what i did. Solved my problem.. thanks for the support and replies, everyone.
 

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