Looking for information on split rims (11 Viewers)

[TheSquare]

So, I bought these 16" splits that are probably from an FJ55. I'm looking to restore them for use on my LJ73.

Is there solid info about tire fitment and inner tube specs for something like that? I know it's dated tech with some quirks to it. So still not sure how much I'll run them, but I got them cheap, and I need a set of summer road wheels for next year anyway. Worst case I'll restore the rims and resell, since the tires are old enough to where they crackled when I released the air from the tubes
But if there is a way to find new tires and tubes for these I'd like to use em. They look kinda cool as well!

As for restoring the rims. Are there any words of caution or suggestions I should consider before starting? Loose plan is to crack em open, donate the crackly tires as planters for the mother in law, and then clean up all the old paint and rust off the rims. Do people paint the tube side of the rims, if so is there anything specific I should use? The outside I would just thoroughly coat with rust protection primer and spray paint them.

 

[Gubbtratt1]

They're 5.5 inch wide, so officially you need quite narrow tyres. 205R16, 7.50R16, 225/95R16. 205R16 is very easy to find, but is on the smaller side for a Land Cruiser. 7.50R16 is readily available in most parts of the world. 225/95R16 is as far as I'm aware only available in Australia. There are also people running much wider tyres on them with no problem. 235/85R16, 255/85R16, 265/75R16, 33X10.5R16, 11.00R16. You might get bad handling and/or tyre wear from that though.

You will need both a tube and a flap. The old flaps are most likely fine to reuse, but if you can find new ones they're very cheap. The tube can't have a normal TR15 valve stem though, it needs a TR87, TR75A or the long rubber one I can't find the name of right now. The much more common TR76A will also work, but it will stick out past the bead so not really great if you're planning to go off road.

Allegedly there's separate tubes for radial tyres. Some say you have to use them, others (including myself) run normal tubes and radial tyres with no problems.

Tubes mostly come in old sizes. If you're not running 205R16, 7.00R16, 7.50R16 or 8.25R16 you just choose the tube that is closest in size.

When assembling the wheel you can put a bit of silicone between the rim and ring to keep moisture out. If you do it yourself, get an inflator that you can operate from a meter away or so. The split rims are otherwise safe to use, but when airing up for the first time they can explode if the ring isn't properly seated in the groove.

A tyre shop that works on heavy machinery should have the equipment and knowledge to mount them safely, but a tyre shop that only works on cars probably won't.

 

[TheSquare]

Lysande, Tack!

Exactly what I was looking for. Seems 205R16 and 7.5R16 are fairly easy to come by here.
I'm not planning on taking slim rims off-road since I already have some comically proportioned 35" mud tires on 15" rims mounted. Mostly looking for some tires with decent road performance for normal summer driving next year. I'll get another set of 16s or larger for some winter tires. Just as long as I can find the 87/75A valves first and the tires don't look ridiculous with the wide fenders I'm happy. Otherwise I'll just restore and resell the rims.

Need to be getting a compressor in the future for some other work on this machine. So makes sense to get a tire pump attachment with a longer hose then. Or maybe just hide behind some improvised ballistic shield when inflating.

Question about the tires. Are the tire diameters standardized for the slims? Modern tires you can derive it from the "/65" or what have you.

 

[Gubbtratt1]

Question about the tires. Are the tire diameters standardized for the slims? Modern tires you can derive it from the "/65" or what have you.

205R16 have 82 profile, which makes it 29" tall. All the imperial sizes I mentioned have 100 profile, 7.50R16 for example is 31" tall.

 

[HZJ75 FARMER]

7.50-16, 7.50R16, or 235/85R16 all work well on them. 205R16 are normally only used on Hilux's, as they are a smaller outer diameter.

Quality brand tubes are a must. Bridgestone, Dunlop Airseal, Sumitomo are all good. MRF tubes seem okay from what I've seen. Don't use Ontrakka brand tubes, they are hopeless.

Rust tends to form the worst in the gap between the main part of the rim, and the split ring. Chip away whatever rust is there with a chipping hammer, and then give it a good working with a wire wheel on a grinder. Then paint with some cold galv paint or any other paint of your choosing.

When fitting tyres, use Lanotec, Lanox, or whatever other brand of lanolin based lube spray you can find. Spray it all over the rim where the beads sit and between the rim and the split ring. It works as a tyre mounting lubricant and rust preventer all in one.

Give the split ring a few hits with a hammer while inflating the first time, to make sure the ring is seated in its groove properly. Don't stand in front of it while inflating. Be careful, but don't get too worried, if done properly they're not too dangerous.

 

[HZJ75 FARMER]

Let us know if you can't work out how to remove the split ring and I'll get a photo. There's a nice little notch for a tyre lever.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I have seen guys wrap a chain through the center hub and around the tire and then hooked tight back on itself while inflating. That will keep the retaining ring from going anywhere if for some reason you don't have it seated properly and it slips. I have 7.50R16 Dunlops on my FZJ75 with the OEM retaining rings. They are biased ply tires so they get flat spots if not driven often but those usually smooth out after a mile or two of driving. After that they ride fine.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

Ran these for years on a Dodge Power Wagon I daily drove. They're fine but old rusty ones like this I would be careful with - take them to a good truck tire shop and have them break this all down completely and inspect everything for fit and corrosion. Wire wheel all the rust off and paint them. If they air up and hold pressure in the tire shop (new tubes, etc. as stated above) then you should be good to go forever. Of course other than low cost and nostalgia they don't really offer anything today unless you really do mean to cross the Sahara and need to be able to change out tubes on your own. The chain trick is a safe way to break them down on your own. One tire shop I went to had a hole in the wall of the shop where a split ring had exploded out and nearly killed a guy so I guess they're fine for years until they're not.

 

[Gubbtratt1]

I had to replace a tyre on a tractor trailer with split rims a while ago that were much rustier than these. The tyre tech who installed the new tyre said the rim was in really good condition.

On the topic of disassembling them, the ring extends quite far under the tyre, and you have to get the tyre off the ring to get the ring off the rim. It can be quite a pain with old tyres. I used a hi lift jack and a tractor to push the tyre down.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

They guys that did mine had a wide bladed sledge hammer they used to beat the tire down off the bead, then used a pry bar get under the ring and worked it off. A jack would be a good way to do it without having to bring an extra tool.

 

[LDowney]

Ran these for years on a Dodge Power Wagon I daily drove. They're fine but old rusty ones like this I would be careful with - take them to a good truck tire shop and have them break this all down completely and inspect everything for fit and corrosion. Wire wheel all the rust off and paint them. If they air up and hold pressure in the tire shop (new tubes, etc. as stated above) then you should be good to go forever. Of course other than low cost and nostalgia they don't really offer anything today unless you really do mean to cross the Sahara and need to be able to change out tubes on your own. The chain trick is a safe way to break them down on your own. One tire shop I went to had a hole in the wall of the shop where a split ring had exploded out and nearly killed a guy so I guess they're fine for years until they're not.

I had to replace a tyre on a tractor trailer with split rims a while ago that were much rustier than these. The tyre tech who installed the new tyre said the rim was in really good condition.

On the topic of disassembling them, the ring extends quite far under the tyre, and you have to get the tyre off the ring to get the ring off the rim. It can be quite a pain with old tyres. I used a hi lift jack and a tractor to push the tyre down.

They guys that did mine had a wide bladed sledge hammer they used to beat the tire down off the bead, then used a pry bar get under the ring and worked it off. A jack would be a good way to do it without having to bring an extra tool.

In my days of youth, I had a after school job at a trucking company where I changed many semi tires on split rims.

Beyond concurring with the advice that has already been shared, we used automatic transmission fluid as the lube for mounting the tire and rings. It is messy, but it may help as an anti-corrosion agent. Also on breaking the bead loose, I found it very handy to run up on the flat tire with another vehicle. My preference was to tangentially run up on the flat tire watching for movement (bead breaking loose and/or whole tire-wheel moving). This might require repositioning the flat a couple of times to get the bead to completely break away.

FYI In all the tires that I changed, I had only one split rim come apart. Luckily, it was in a blow-out cage so it was contained. I still came away with small bits of dirt/paint/debris imbedded in the skin on my arms and face which were closest to the cage. As I stated, I was very lucky and I will never forget the luck in the moment.

i.e., When split rims go bad, the consequences can be severe so caution and diligence is highly recommended.

 

[TheSquare]

Awesome, thanks for all the advice.

I'm not in a rush to mount em up, and when I do I'm not worried about damaging the tires and tubes that are on there now as those need to go anyway.

Gonna look at getting it done at the cabin before next spring when I gotta switch. So I'll have plenty of time to make sure the wheels are holding air and not explodifying me or anything too precious...

As for lubricants and such. Is there not a risk that any lubricant used to mount the tires helps it "spontaneously disassemble"? My idea was to fit whatever tires, tubes and whatall I end up buying and only inflate them once I put the bead back on. But maybe it just sounds less complicated in my head than it is in reality.