Looking for help with engine pull near Scranton, PA

[TomV]

Looking for help pulling the engine / tranny from my FJ45. The truck is in the Scranton, PA area (Lake Wallenpaupack).

I've pulled and installed engines before but not on an FJ and am just looking for someone who has done this before to help make sure I do it the right/easiest way.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Tom

email: jvtv83@aol.com
cell phone 631-697-0135

 

[charliemeyer007]

I use an A frame with a chain falls. Tie the hood back. Disconnect the battery. Take out radiator and remove the starter. Pull the fenders. Tip the bib forward. Disconnect and mark wires/plugs. Speedometer and maybe parking brake. Un do the drive lines after you mark their locations, tape the caps in place. Take out drivers seat. Undo the tranny cover, deal with the boots and shifter. Hook up your chain falls - a load leveler (HF like $50 worth the investment). Undo the mounts, pick up the motor/tranny/transfer in one piece and roll the rig back, lift more, roll more. I have done it several times in about 3 hours going out or in by myself on in the dirt.
Once I did the clutch by just dropping the T/T. I spent hours trying to put them back. Not boy enough apprentally. Next morning, pulled the engine put the stuff on and put it all back in a few hours.

 

[TomV]

I use an A frame with a chain falls. Tie the hood back. Disconnect the battery. Take out radiator and remove the starter. Pull the fenders. Tip the bib forward. Disconnect and mark wires/plugs. Speedometer and maybe parking brake. Un do the drive lines after you mark their locations, tape the caps in place. Take out drivers seat. Undo the tranny cover, deal with the boots and shifter. Hook up your chain falls - a load leveler (HF like $50 worth the investment). Undo the mounts, pick up the motor/tranny/transfer in one piece and roll the rig back, lift more, roll more. I have done it several times in about 3 hours going out or in by myself on in the dirt.
Once I did the clutch by just dropping the T/T. I spent hours trying to put them back. Not boy enough apprentally. Next morning, pulled the engine put the stuff on and put it all back in a few hours.

Thanks Charlie, its reassuring to know that its straightforward. I've got everything apart and its ready to be pulled, just nervous about pulling engine, tranny, T-case together, alone. Doesnt seem like a one-man job, LOL.

 

[cstav86]

I did it by myself with a 2 Ton engine hoist. Biggest hassle is having a way to set it on something that you can move around. I used a heavy duty pallet with casters on it. Ideally it's a couple guys helping kind of job, but it can be done.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Its hard to get good help these days especially in the outback here. Yes its heavy and awkward but its easy enough I just do it myself the last 2 times. The PO helped me the first time and I used his stuff. Now I have my own.

 

[TomV]

This truck has a Tranny parking brake, I have never seen one before, What's the easiest way to remove the cable before pullling the tranny and T-case during the engine pull?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'm thinking you have the parking brake on the output shaft of the transfer case. FJ40, FJ45 and FJ55 Parking Brake Assembly - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/076
Take the drum off and unhook the cable. Good time to consider a double seal on the drum or add a speedy sleeve to prevent leaks.

 

[pb4ugo]

It's been decades since the last time I pulled a stk trans/tcase. I think I disconnected the cable from the handle pull and a couple of bolts on the firewall and the cable came out with the unit. I could be wrong too.

Be careful pulling it, it's a heavy assembly.

 

[TomV]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice. This truck is my first 40 series. We've had a 94 80 series in the family for almost 30 years. My sons and I have done most everything that can be done on that truck including an engine swap but never had a 40 before. So I appreciate your help and patience with my questions.

 

[SteveH]

• Remove the bib entirely and store it safely somewhere else.
• Study the area where you're pulling the engine and be sure the concrete is smooth and workable under the engine hoist.
• Realize that you will be at the limit of the lifting capacity of a typical parts-store 2000# engine hoist, so when you roll the engine/trans/xfer assembly around, go very slowly and watch for tippyness or catching a caster on a crack in the concrete.
• A 2nd person is handy mostly for spotting to see 'what got hung up' and 'what wire you forgot to disconnect that is now undergoing a tensile strength test during the engine pull'. Can be done alone - just more fun with a helper.

 

[brian]

• Remove the bib entirely and store it safely somewhere else.
• Study the area where you're pulling the engine and be sure the concrete is smooth and workable under the engine hoist.
• Realize that you will be at the limit of the lifting capacity of a typical parts-store 2000# engine hoist, so when you roll the engine/trans/xfer assembly around, go very slowly and watch for tippyness or catching a caster on a crack in the concrete.
• A 2nd person is handy mostly for spotting to see 'what got hung up' and 'what wire you forgot to disconnect that is now undergoing a tensile strength test during the engine pull'. Can be done alone - just more fun with a helper.

A 2nd person would be mandatory if you haven't worked this shadey on prior projects. The store bought hoists get pretty wobbly with this kind of weight when trying roll them, its easier to move the chassis back enough to be able to lower the engine/trans before trying to push that around.
A load leveler is a plus for the hoist.

 

[TomV]

Brian and Steve, thanks for the advice. What you point out is exactly why I am nervous about doing it myself. I have a gravel driveway so I reversed the truck in the garage so its facing in and can roll the truck out from under the engine, but its still gotta be a bitch rolling that much weight around hanging on a chain once its out.

Hopefully I will be taking a stab at it this weekend. Wish me luck!

 

[SteveH]

@TomV - I once pulled a Ford 360v8 from a '76 F150 and noticed (while it was dangling) that a washer was slipping through the attaching chain. I quickly addressed this.

As a rule of thumb, consider that any engine 'dangling' is not a good thing, so at all times, try to set the engine down (many folks put an old tire under the oil pan to stabilize/cushion it) quickly and don't ever leave it dangling longer than necessary. In your case, once you roll the truck back, you can ease the engine down to the ground.

 

[Green Bean]

The parking brake cable is a pain. You can disconnect it by removing the rear drive shaft, parking brake hub and you will see a very small "C" clip retainer. Once you remove the retainer clip you will be able to remove the cable. Reassembly is worse because getting that little clip back into position while laying on your back is no fun. It works best with an extra hand. By the way, those little clips are still available from Toyota. (P/N # 90213-07006)

In y humble opinion, disconnecting the parking brake cable underneath the driver's side firewall is even worse. It is not complicated but it is definitely a project for small hands.