Looking for guidance to replacement the drive flange with hopes to solving D to R clunk (4 Viewers)

[MusserST3]

Looking for some guidance and possibly exact part numbers for those who have done the job before. I am not the most mechanically inclined so I’d like not to screw this up haha. If there is already a write up for this sort of thing please comment below, thank you!!

For ‘99 Land Cruiser with 196k miles

 

[clrussell]

Are you sure it’s a drive flange and not the front diff support bushing ?

 

[2001LC]

A few simple inspections can confirm hub flange to axle clunk.



Hub flange R&R alone will help. But typically the front driver shaft (AKA CV) outer axle splines are also worn.

 

[2001LC]

New FDS & hub flange

 

[2001LC]

New hub flange

Hub flange teeth/splines worn excessively.

 

[2001LC]

New FDS (AKA CV)

New FDS outer axle teeth/splines and snap ring groove.

FDS Axle and hub flange new back side

Worn out FDS splines/teeth and groove, from improper wheel bearing service.

 

[Patassa]

Looking for some guidance and possibly exact part numbers for those who have done the job before. I am not the most mechanically inclined so I’d like not to screw this up haha. If there is already a write up for this sort of thing please comment below, thank you!!

For ‘99 Land Cruiser with 196k miles

Extremely straight forward job, but have you checked to see if the splines on your drive flanges are actually worn? Better bang for the buck for me was diff support bushings.

 

[2001LC]

Frt Diff bushing or bushings (most often just front bushing) may indeed need R&R. But they easily fool us during inspection in most. Whereas hub flange inspection is 100% conclusive. Sometime both diff and hubs need service. But we chase clunk, if Hub flange/Axle not first address. Now I have seen some (diff bushing) that are total gone. Those for sure replace them ASAP.

Clunk minor. Here it seems front diff front bushing the culprit. It wasn't! Watch FDS (CV) in background.


Here's new diff bushing just installed. (Also rack bushings)

 

[2001LC]

Looking for some guidance and possibly exact part numbers for those who have done the job before. I am not the most mechanically inclined so I’d like not to screw this up haha. If there is already a write up for this sort of thing please comment below, thank you!!

For ‘99 Land Cruiser with 196k miles

Sorry for not answering you PN# ? first. But as you can see, what is clunking, first needs addressing. Deeper understanding & inspection is key!

 

[nissanh]

Sorry for not answering you PN# ? first. But as you can see, what is clunking, first needs addressing. Deeper understanding & inspection is key!

I tried all except a brand new front diff, still have the clunk but not as bad as before. Installed OEM flanges, OEM brand new CV's, front diff bushings still it is present. For the same reason, I bought my new Tacoma in manual. Automatic's will always give a clunk when shifting from P to R ot N to D. Only way to minimize the clunk is to wait for the engine to warm up so the RPM is low when engaging the gears.

The play is now inside the spider gears and CV splines. Also some backlash on ring and pinion gear.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Mine was reduced greatly with new flange and CV. Still does it though. Mine NEVER does it if the center diff is locked.

It was a little embrassing at first, but now mine sounds like a s***box anyway with the lunchbox locker in the rear diff so I gave up hahahaha.




43421-60060 Front drive flange

My CV replacements were Cardone HD's because I am a dirty peasant

 

[Rebin Rajan]

Did you manage to fix this? I have the same problem as well. There is a strange jerk while stepping on the gas as well

 

[Jack90210]

Did you manage to fix this? I have the same problem as well. There is a strange jerk while stepping on the gas as well

First step is to make sure that the slip joint is full of grease, just to confirm that you've already done that.

After this I'd recommend @2001LC 's videos above to see what symptoms present when the splines/teeth at the hub are worn, as it's easy to check.

As noted above, worn bushings/mounts can cause this problem as well but it's harder to check without removing them.

 

[cartelcruiser]

Did you manage to fix this? I have the same problem as well. There is a strange jerk while stepping on the gas as well

I have the jerk or jolt when hitting the gas at various speeds. Someone told me all full time 4wd do that, but mine has increased over time. Nothing appears to be worn, and I grease the drive shaft and joints about every 5k miles. Moving to the Axle Flange next and maybe even doing the CV's, even though mine are still visibly in good shape.

 

[Bisho]

I have the jerk or jolt when hitting the gas at various speeds. Someone told me all full time 4wd do that, but mine has increased over time. Nothing appears to be worn, and I grease the drive shaft and joints about every 5k miles. Moving to the Axle Flange next and maybe even doing the CV's, even though mine are still visibly in good shape.

We are technically AWD, but nonetheless, it shouldn't do that.

 

[Jack90210]

I have the jerk or jolt when hitting the gas at various speeds. Someone told me all full time 4wd do that, but mine has increased over time. Nothing appears to be worn, and I grease the drive shaft and joints about every 5k miles. Moving to the Axle Flange next and maybe even doing the CV's, even though mine are still visibly in good shape.

Do you grease the driveshafts (front and rear) until grease seeps past the seal? If they haven't been "filled" with grease it can take quite a bit more (like, up to 1/4-1/2 tube each) than one might think to be properly greased.

 

[cartelcruiser]

Do you grease the driveshafts (front and rear) until grease seeps past the seal? If they haven't been "filled" with grease it can take quite a bit more (like, up to 1/4-1/2 tube each) than one might think to be properly greased.

Yes and I do it until new grease comes through as opposed to the old funky stuff.

 

[2001LC]

We stop, greasing until grease passes the seal. Which was what Toyota once had recommended.

Grease only, until first extension (movement) of slide yoke observed.

Older seals, where seals are worn-out in slide yoke. Gease can pass easily. But where seals are still good. We'll build to much hydraulic pressure, trying to get grease to pass them.