Looking For....General Axle Rebuilding Info

[mattstoy]

I have finally got my Cruiser completely stripped and the frame is at the shop, thus providing me much needed room in the garage. When the frame comes back, the rebuilding will start. While the frame is out the way, I am looking to rebuild and clean up both axles. This will be my first time dealing with axles, I am looking for advice, suggestions & comments on rebuilding. I am starting with the front. I want to disassemble the housing and replace bearings and seals were needed. My cruiser is 78, so I have disc's up front and drums in the rear. Couple initial questions...

1. Third member removal. Like I said I want to clean up the housing, so I am thinking of removing the third member in order to blast the housing and repaint. Can the third member be easily removed? In my head I imagine it just comes out as one assembly. I don’t want to get into removing the pinion. Is it possible for me to simply pull out the third member as 1 assembly, and just perform the reverse when putting it back in?

2. Knuckles.... what do I need to know? Suggestions for rebuild kits?

3. Brake Calibers? Are the stock ones any good? Should I look at replacing or rebuilding?

4. Curiosity question.... How comes the front third member does not have a front removable cover (like the rear)

 

[bsevans]

Do yourself a favor, after removing all the components take both empty axle housings to a shop that rebuilds axles and have both axles checked for straightness and corrected if necessary.

 

[natvet]

I did the same thing..... Best suggestion I can make is to get a FSM from toyota. It will tell you how to tear it up and put it back together correctly. I did it with now experience so you can also. By the way front is more difficult than the rear. Good luck and post some pics

 

[60fj25]

Is it possible for me to simply pull out the third member as 1 assembly, and just perform the reverse when putting it back in?
--After removing the axles, yes the third comes out as a complete assembly.

2. Knuckles.... what do I need to know? Suggestions for rebuild kits?
--As was said previously, get the FSM or do a Search here. Lots of info around. SOR, Man-A-Fre, Toyota all have rebuild kits.

3. Brake Calibers? Are the stock ones any good? Should I look at replacing or rebuilding?
--I've not had any problems with stock calipers. I believe there are rebuild kits, re-mans and new available.

4. Curiosity question.... How comes the front third member does not have a front removable cover (like the rear)
--The rear has a removable cover so you can get to and remove the c-clips on the axle. The front does not have c-clips.

 

[amaurer]

Is it possible for me to simply pull out the third member as 1 assembly, and just perform the reverse when putting it back in?
--After removing the axles, yes the third comes out as a complete assembly.

Possible, but be prepared to get creative - the gasket often sticks them to the housing REAL tight and you have to use a jack to knock em off. Without the axle attached to the vehicle for leverage, you're going to be swearing a bit...

 

[mattstoy]

Do yourself a favor, after removing all the components take both empty axle housings to a shop that rebuilds axles and have both axles checked for straightness and corrected if necessary.

Hmmmm, never even gave this a thought.

 

[aggiecruiser]

Possible, but be prepared to get creative - the gasket often sticks them to the housing REAL tight and you have to use a jack to knock em off. Without the axle attached to the vehicle for leverage, you're going to be swearing a bit...

X2. I had to remove the third members on my 79 without the advantage of having them still attached to the vehicle. They did stick a bit. I first removed all of the nuts holding the third member onto the housing. Then, I supported the housing on jackstands high enough to allow the third member to hang straigth down. Lifting one end of the housing off the jackstands a few inches, and then letting it drop a couple of times seemed to break the seal of the gaskets. I did have a nice cushy landing pad for the third in case it decided to let go easier then I had thought. Which is hind sight was slightly dnagerous because the clearances between the ring gear and the housing is very tight. And had it dropped, could have caused damage to the ring gear on its exit from the housing. But I got lucky, the housing popped loose a bit, and I was able to work it loose from the two longer studs in the housing that seem to almost act as indexing pins for the third (even though they are just through a thicker part of the housing).

However you decide to get it off - Be careful, that thing is heavier than you think!

-Chris

 

[aggiecruiser]

I3. Brake Calibers? Are the stock ones any good? Should I look at replacing or rebuilding?

I am at a similar stage of rebuild. Axles are completely stripped down, and had questions about calipers. I had originally gone the route of trying to disassemble the calipers to rebuild them, but was informed via some sharp guys here on MUD that remanufactured calipers can be had at OReilly's for around $30.00 if you take yours in for a core. I went and looked at them at the store,and they look great, seems to be made from the same casting and everything. All new hardware, the whole nine yards.

For me, I had already removed the calipers off the axle, and was having trouble getting the pistons inside the calipers free. Without a closed and bled system to force them out, it was simply easier and more cost effective for me to pick up new one at O'Reilly.

-Hope this helps,
Chris

 

[mattstoy]

I am at a similar stage of rebuild. Axles are completely stripped down, and had questions about calipers. I had originally gone the route of trying to disassemble the calipers to rebuild them, but was informed via some sharp guys here on MUD that remanufactured calipers can be had at OReilly's for around $30.00 if you take yours in for a core. I went and looked at them at the store,and they look great, seems to be made from the same casting and everything. All new hardware, the whole nine yards.

For me, I had already removed the calipers off the axle, and was having trouble getting the pistons inside the calipers free. Without a closed and bled system to force them out, it was simply easier and more cost effective for me to pick up new one at O'Reilly.

-Hope this helps,
Chris

$30... Sounds like a done deal, to just buy these. Thanks for the tip!

 

[mattstoy]

I did the same thing..... Best suggestion I can make is to get a FSM from toyota. It will tell you how to tear it up and put it back together correctly. I did it with now experience so you can also. By the way front is more difficult than the rear. Good luck and post some pics

So, did you rebuild the birf's? I was reading in the FSM about how to do it and I am not sure if I want to get into that or not. I probally should while I am thins far into it....

I also, saw were they talk about the SST for centering everything, once it goes back together. Wondering If I will need to do this since I plan to reuse the same knucles and axle housing?

 

[aggiecruiser]

I also, saw were they talk about the SST for centering everything, once it goes back together. Wondering If I will need to do this since I plan to reuse the same knucles and axle housing?

I have read on MUD where many people do not use the centering tool. They are however diligent to make sure the shims are well labeled during disassembly, and put back together exactly the same way after assembly. It probably works in the majority of cases. However, if you have just recently purchased the truck, and don't have a baseline on how the PO maintained the truck, the current setup may be rigged in a fashion that promotes wear.

My philosophy is that if I am going to go through the trouble to tear all this stuff apart, and spend on the order of $170 to get new bearings and knuckle rebuild kits - I want to make sure I am not back in there redoing it all prematurely. That being said, if you don't plan on driving this thing every day, then you would probably be okay with not going the SST route, and you would probably still get reasonable bearing life in terms of overall elapsed duration, (not hours on the bearings)...IMO

-Chris