Looking for fj40 in NC

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

jfz80 said:
The two listed above seemed to be good deal, and fit your criteria. Dont be afraid to travel for the right one. Granted, the long distance purchase is its own adventure but you might be able to get a local member to take a peek or you can make a day trip of it to go inspect one if you think its a winner.

as well as searchtempest listed earlier try themccumbers.com and search all of nc and sc
i found it flooded with 40s just mon/tues but in 8-12 range though some nice ones
make an offer, make a deal with dad, never know

Your first post has a pretty good description of your want list but maybe define a little bit more your criteria or give some feedback and the listings like above so people may have a better idea of what youre after. Also take the advice given and remember there may have to be compromise. I make a list of my wants and find the vehicle that has the most of them. See which on your list you could do without. Each purchase ive made yet has had a compromise.

Are you married to the idea of the ambulance doors? If i found the right one in most other aspects (ie RUST :D) then id hop on it. Then you decide to live with it or you can always save and swap to amby doors later though may need to drill for hinges or get some differnt hardtop pieces. <<< right 40 gurus?
comes back to get the right one for five thousand and make it right/play with the other 3....4....5.... :D
Click to expand...


Thanks again! Some of the best advice yet!
 
Snowdogyyz said:
Finding your 40 at that price point in NC could be extremely difficult. Pricing is up these days. You may want open up your search geographically a bit!
Click to expand...


I'm willing to drive a bit to find one. My older brother is going to Ole Miss in the fall (we're moving him down in August) so I'll have some opportunities to travel to find one. Let me know if ya'll know of any that fits some of what I'm looking for or one that ya'll think is good.
 
I know where a project 40 is at. The engine is out of it along with a bunch of other stuff. Hard top and the likes. Unsure of body condition but it is here in Nam close to me to look at for someone. I am unsure of price right now.
 
I have a 40 for sale, it is a lot of work for sure. Probably more than you want to take on.

1968 FJ40 4 Sale

This is a unique FJ40 due to it is RHD, 3 on the tree and even the T-case shifter is mounted on the dash.

Odometer reads 38K not sure if it is 100 or 200K

It runs and I have driven it around the property, needs work to be road worthy. The tub is in bad shape, the cowl and front clip can be saved.

Comes with the following:

Extra frame Two fiberglass tops Ambulance doors
4 original wheels with hubcap clips Extra set of axles
New wiring harness

This is a project rig
$ 4,200.00 OBO

8754463740_8295edb0e6_b.jpg

8754458348_f6a060839c_b.jpg

8753284103_c1cdd521ef_c.jpg

8754457606_e5df5d0d12_c.jpg
 
Possibly going to look at one next week on the east side of Charlotte. It's a green 76 that a guy bought for him and his wife to do a complete restoration on I guess just for the heck of it. He's owned it for 6 years and its been in his garage the entire time. He said it has the 350 in it (which is a v8, so I'm a bit weary), but he said the guy that he bought it from took the carburetor off for another car, but he said it ran perfectly fine before that was removed. So I need to know what type of carb I would need to buy if I were to get the 40 and how much one would cost. The body isn't in too bad of shape from what I can tell by the pics so far but idk. He's asking 5700 and it comes with a bunch of parts... Was wondering if you more experienced and wiser guys could look at it and let me know what y'all think is a fair price to pay (aka what I could get him down to) and what else y'all think needs to be done to it. Also maybe somebody would be willing to go look at it with me and my dad when we go, because we could use someone who knows a lot about them to help us out.


Here's the link to the Craigslist ad: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3902183510.html


P.S. it needs to have all the dust removed and cleaned on the inside and out... Just saying

Reply here or shoot me a text at 704/516/4029


-Brysen
 
Based on the pics, and the list of spare parts - seems like a good deal. Even if the 350 isn't in good shape, you could sell a few parts included in the sale and drop in a crate motor. Look hard at those rockers, I don't see any rust but the door bottoms are crusty so I wouldn't be surprised... GL

:beer: R
 
mtweller said:
Based on the pics, and the list of spare parts - seems like a good deal. Even if the 350 isn't in good shape, you could sell a few parts included in the sale and drop in a crate motor. Look hard at those rockers, I don't see any rust but the door bottoms are crusty so I wouldn't be surprised... GL

:beer: R
Click to expand...

What do you think she's worth? What about the carb?
 
You have to go take a very long look at it.

If not rusty and because it has all the parts (if you want those parts) if might be worth $4000 ish - maybe more, maybe less. If super clean, I'd probably pay $5000 no problem. I know others are going to say less, but I think prices are going back up and sometimes you get lucky and find a clean survivor.

Look for fiberglass and bondo repairs made with what I jokingly refer to as "structural bondo" which is body filler with fiberglass fibers to give it strength. Also look for repairs made with pop rivits and sheet metal vs a truck that has never been rusty or has been repaired with welded in steel panels.

So your task is to be a detective and figure this out.

In general you would better off with a stock motor, but that does not mean you don't buy a V8 truck if you find one. I sold two of my V8 trucks to my best friend and he pulled both motors and put 2F's back in. I have started to call him the deviator dee-vee-8-er as he always takes the V8 out.

I sold my V8 truck to a friend who drove it for years and only had to do oil changes and minor repairs like header gaskets and a tune up years after he bought it.

Last point - no carb means assume new motor until proven other wise.

I hope that someone at least stuffed a rag into the intake! I would prefer to see it taped shut!

If this has been sitting for a while you may to work on it a lot before you can drive it. I was always up for that but make sure that you are. Do you have a place to work on it? Tools?

Offer him $4000 in cash - bring the money and show it to him when you make the offer. (bring your dad) and start from there. The gypsy roll of cash does a lot to make a deal happen.
 
Last edited:
kulangot said:
Last point - no carb means assume new motor until proven other wise.

I hope that someone at least stuffed a rag into the intake! I would prefer to see it taped shut!
Click to expand...

That and I'd hope it has valve covers on it. There is a set on the passenger seat in one pic. Having the top end of the motor open for 6 years really makes me think new engine ....

My $0.02 ...
 
kulangot said:
You have to go take a very long look at it.

If not rusty and because it has all the parts (if you want those parts) if might be worth $4000 ish - maybe more, maybe less. If super clean, I'd probably pay $5000 no problem. I know others are going to say less, but I think prices are going back up and sometimes you get lucky and find a clean survivor.

Look for fiberglass and bondo repairs made with what I jokingly refer to as "structural bondo" which is body filler with fiberglass fibers to give it strength. Also look for repairs made with pop rivits and sheet metal vs a truck that has never been rusty or has been repaired with welded in steel panels.

So your task is to be a detective and figure this out.

In general you would better off with a stock motor, but that does not mean you don't buy a V8 truck if you find one. I sold two of my V8 trucks to my best friend and he pulled both motors and put 2F's back in. I have started to call him the deviator dee-vee-8-er as he always takes the V8 out.

I sold my V8 truck to a friend who drove it for years and only had to do oil changes and minor repairs like header gaskets and a tune up years after he bought it.

Last point - no carb means assume new motor until proven other wise.

I hope that someone at least stuffed a rag into the intake! I would prefer to see it taped shut!

If this has been sitting for a while you may to work on it a lot before you can drive it. I was always up for that but make sure that you are. Do you have a place to work on it? Tools?

Offer him $4000 in cash - bring the money and show it to him when you make the offer. (bring your dad) and start from there. The gypsy roll of cash does a lot to make a deal happen.
Click to expand...


good points here...... pretty much assume the motor will need to be replaced and budget for it. If it doesn't need to be replaced then it will be a nice surprise.

As a rule of thumb if there is something "simple" wrong with it like a missing carb (which is very cheap and easy to do) there is most likely an underlying reason that the owner hasn't done that himself if only to increase resale value instead of having a truck that may fire up with a new carb or may not.

Jegs is your friend for a SBC carb. If it was me i'd take one with me and ask the owner if I can fit it to "fire it right up" if it doesn't work then you can use that to haggle down the price.


Personally it wouldn't really matter to me if it was an 8 or the I6. both are great motors but you don't want too much power with it being and old chassis and such a SWB.
 
Great points by Elkaholic and Lt1fire

I'd add that you have to go looking at this or any other truck assuming the worse case scenario until you get there and are proven otherwise.

If it just needed a carb then why didn't the previous owner or the current owner just buy a crappy Holley for $200 bucks new and get it running. Odds are there is more to the story but I did once buy a truck with a brand new crate motor that did not run - dist was in 180. Ran like a champ after that. Sometimes you get lucky.

if you do buy it, get a nice reman Quadrajet - Hill Billy Fool Infection (Hill Folk Fuel Injection). It is was came from the factory on GM motors and a great carb. The stock air cleaners fits on it and they work great off road.
 
A quadrajet is a great one if staying with the carb.


If you have money to burn edlebrock, holley and a slew of others offer efi kits that are very tunable to get the most driveability and mpg out of it.
 
I think I may have a quadrajet manual somewhere.... most likely it is back in LA since that thing was huge.
 
Guys, I talked to the seller last week about this one when it first came up on CL. In the "bunch of parts" is a new 4" lift with shocks and braided lines. I tried to get the guy to just sell me the lift. He wouldn't but we talked for a good while. He's an early Bronco guy and knows his stuff when it comes to those. I've seen one in person that he did a lot of work on and it was top notch. Broncos are a lot like 40's...they rust like crazy. If this guy says it's clean (and he does) he's probably right. He told me he bought the 40 to restore for his wife because it was really clean. If I had not already made my 40 purchase I would be all over this. The guy knows about the Mud forum and I told him to post it here if he really wants to sell. Don't be too surprised if it comes up here as well. Depending on when ya'll decide to go I may go look at it with you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom