looking at a lc100 1HDFTE. looks rust free, what should I check more? (1 Viewer)

Location

United States

Hi Everyone,
I am looking at a 2000 LC100 4.2 turbo diesel.
the car look in good shape cosmetically and looks like it has no rust.
the seller writes "Serviced thoroughly. Oil (Toyota 5W30) + all filters, belts, and rollers have been replaced. Front calipers and all brake pads have been changed. Documents are in order. Genuine mileage. First owner. Brand new Toyo MT tires (285/75/16). Driven daily. No rust.".
the seller also told me the car has the original air suspension

the car has nearly 400,000 km (245,000 miles).

what are things I can ask additionally the seller before I go see it in person? and what should I check at the spot? the car is 900km from where I live so if I go there i will buy it unless something is very wrong with it

by the way I live in Europe, and this car is from south Europe which is nice and explain the rust-free state of it.
here are some pictures:

the guy wants 16,200 euro for it, and he said we can negotiate price within reason, I think the price might be a bit high considering the miles the car drove but on the other hand it is rust free and looks in good condition.

any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

 

[SMLE]

Hi there,

That looks nice and clean, I'd suggest going into this with a 'I'm going to need to spend money on something' kind of attitude, I bought my first one in September last year and have been rectifying stuff I missed/discovered.

There are a few good 'buying guides/what to check' type videos on youtube, and I'm sure there will be something on here if you search in this part of IH8MUD (or someone much better informed than me will be along soon!), however having learned the hard way, even little things cost money when you're buying OEM parts and it adds up quickly!

With the engine running, in park, and doors closed, you should check that the car goes up from N to H, then to L and back to N on the air suspension controls in the centre, might be worth doing outside of the vehicle with the window down so you can confirm for yourself they are all operating correctly. AHC (the active height control, which works off fluid rather than air) is nice to drive with and much more comfy for these big trucks over aftermarket springs and shocks, so keeping them running is worth it.

Check the the front and back of the rear arches, but from the looks of things rust shouldn't be an issue.

It's worth looking up on here how to check the condition of the 'globes' (4 of them, one for each corner which are a huge part of your AHC), it involves checking the AHC fluid reservoir in the engine bay to see what level the fluid sits at when the car is set to different heights.

Also worth looking up how to test the brake booster, I don't believe the test is definitive but it gives you an idea of how much life it has left in it, especially as the replacement is expensive, plus you don't want to end up with total brake failure whilst driving.

Some of the issues mine had, which I didn't think to check:
- windscreen moulding down each side had missing rivets/enlarged rivet holes/missing weatherstrip seal which meant the car leaked water into the cabin and also into the fuseboxes
- bushes, there are so many bushes on these things and after 20 years or so on the road they are often needing changing if they've not been replaced (they all add up quickly!)
- Leaking steering rack and bushes shot
- Worn out CV axles
- Radiator top discoloured and aged (so ready to pop!)
- Upper and Low control arm bushes (front and rear) plus balljoints were shot
- Front wheel bearings shot
- Rear 3rd light leaking, so rear cargo area carpets were wet
- Front diff bushings shot (can cause a clunk when coming back onto accelerator after taking foot off/clunk when shifting between P, R and D etc)

The 'clunking' is generally considered to be driveline wear from what I've read, so play in various parts, but changing stuff out helps reduce/eliminate that.

My 4.2TD engine is a beauty, on 238K miles and has questionable maintenance but you'd not know it. The engines are used in all sorts of applications from small lorries to boats, and will just keep going, I know having these make out friends across the pond in North America pretty jealous

My final suggestion would be getting a laptop installed with Techstream before you go (software and cable cheap on amazon, less than €40ish, you can take it with you and scan the car, do some live data etc, just to get an idea of any particular issues/old fault codes etc. Plus, if you're driving back and have an issue it'll probably help you diagnose/clear the fault code.

I'm sure someone better informed will be along soon, but just wanted to let you know about the issues/things I wish I'd known to check!

Good luck