Looking at a 2006 GX 470 - how bad is this rust? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 10, 2023
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7
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Location
Albany, NY
Hi all - first post here.

I am by no means a "car guy", but have been trying to do some research before I jump into the GX game. I am planning to buy one for "light" off-roading. (dirt roads, some mud/snow here in the adirondacks/catskills.. little to no chance of getting stuck anywhere).

Anyways - I was sent two short clips (sorry for the poor video quality) of the undercarriage. I am seeing rust on lots of the weld joints, and various spots... but I don't know entirely what I'm looking at, or if this is a bad sign. Car is in Maryland, so salted roads are not uncommon in the winter.

I am okay with spending $$ when replacing some rusted parts (exhaust system, bars, etc.) but what do you think? If everything else is in good driving condition, should I pull the trigger? Thanks!

One side of the vehicle undercarriage:

Other side of the vehicle undercarriage:
 
Personally I’d pass. There is too many out there rust free for sale. Really need to look at under the rear bumper and lower radiator support
 
Personally I’d pass. There is too many out there rust free for sale. Really need to look at under the rear bumper and lower radiator support
The issue is that I'm in NY. This one is in Maryland; honestly the Carolinas is as far south as I'd probably venture out to drive it back. But I appreciate the input on WHERE to look for rust issues.
 
It's hard to tell with it being a video as opposed to a high-resolution photo. As mentioned above you need to look at the frame under the rear bumper/spare tire area, the bottom of the radiator core support, plus the PS frame rail just behind the front tire (where the AC drip line discharges onto the frame). Also look into the frame with a light or inspection camera; they like to rust from inside out near the AC drip line discharge.

This comes up all of the time on this forum - in general folks from the western/southern half of the country suggest buying something rust free, folks from areas with some rust generally know how to deal with it and say it's NBD. You can fly south and west and buy, but then you're sinking $1K+ into a trip where you either might come home empty handed or come home with a GX that is rust free but has other issues. I personally prefer something I can look at in person, and was lucky to find my GX within 200 miles of home. Prices for GXs are also higher in the west than in the rest of it's country, so costs add up quickly.

My GX was probably similar to yours (again hard to fully verify since it's a video). I've undercoated it with Woolwax and Fluid Film and the rust has stopped. I have broken some bolts while working it, however I have a welder and lots of other tools so that's also not the end of the world and nothing has been insurmountable. I'm also at the point where I've replaced the entire suspension and exhaust on my GX, so there aren't many bolts left that I haven't turned.

Even if you drag one back from the Southwest it will start to rust the first winter. The best thing you can do for these is to avoid one that's a total rust bucket and even if the frame is perfect, undercoat it yearly. A DIY application of Woolwax is <$100.
 
It's hard to tell with it being a video as opposed to a high-resolution photo. As mentioned above you need to look at the frame under the rear bumper/spare tire area, the bottom of the radiator core support, plus the PS frame rail just behind the front tire (where the AC drip line discharges onto the frame). Also look into the frame with a light or inspection camera; they like to rust from inside out near the AC drip line discharge.

This comes up all of the time on this forum - in general folks from the western/southern half of the country suggest buying something rust free, folks from areas with some rust generally know how to deal with it and say it's NBD. You can fly south and west and buy, but then you're sinking $1K+ into a trip where you either might come home empty handed or come home with a GX that is rust free but has other issues. I personally prefer something I can look at in person, and was lucky to find my GX within 200 miles of home. Prices for GXs are also higher in the west than in the rest of it's country, so costs add up quickly.

My GX was probably similar to yours (again hard to fully verify since it's a video). I've undercoated it with Woolwax and Fluid Film and the rust has stopped. I have broken some bolts while working it, however I have a welder and lots of other tools so that's also not the end of the world and nothing has been insurmountable. I'm also at the point where I've replaced the entire suspension and exhaust on my GX, so there aren't many bolts left that I haven't turned.

Even if you drag one back from the Southwest it will start to rust the first winter. The best thing you can do for these is to avoid one that's a total rust bucket and even if the frame is perfect, undercoat it yearly. A DIY application of Woolwax is <$100.
Thank you for the detailed response. This is sort of what I figured; the costs being higher out west, and the cost to ship it back/fly out and drive it back.
 
Congrats! If you want to DIY the undercoating the Woolwax gun is pretty good and you can run it with a small air compressor. On mine I pressure washed the underside, applied Woolwax Black on exposed surfaces, and put Fluid Film inside the frame. A before and after of mine is below.
20210501_074539.jpg

20210501_090828 (1).jpg


Otherwise I'm sure there are lots of other undercoating options in Albany (pretty few down here at the southwestern tip of the rust belt).
 
The issue is that I'm in NY. This one is in Maryland; honestly the Carolinas is as far south as I'd probably venture out to drive it back. But I appreciate the input on WHERE to look for rust issues.
I bought my first GX a few years ago site unseen, only pics from texas, no rust, well taken care of, good car fax, 900 dollars shipping. was worth the looking. You can hire a mechanic service tio visit and inspect, usually they do with 1 day or so.
 
Congrats! If you want to DIY the undercoating the Woolwax gun is pretty good and you can run it with a small air compressor. On mine I pressure washed the underside, applied Woolwax Black on exposed surfaces, and put Fluid Film inside the frame. A before and after of mine is below.
View attachment 3483842
View attachment 3483843

Otherwise I'm sure there are lots of other undercoating options in Albany (pretty few down here at the southwestern tip of the rust belt).
Nice! Did you remove any rust beforehand? Or does Woolwax protect + stop the corrosion?
 
I just pressure washed it and applied the Woolwax. It seals the rust from air/water and should more or less stop it as long as you stay on top of the coatings. I re-applied after ~6 months and haven't applied in almost 2 years, but it's due for a coat this winter. I usually touch up the rear fenderwells every time I wash the rig, and they have a really nice coating on them as a result.
 
That Black Woolwax looks good. Better than some of the other stuff I've seen, especially when applied over a course rusty surface.

If interested in trying to remove some of the rust without wearing oneself out, try Oshpo. It can be sprayed on and in all the crevices. Let it dry for a day or so and spray choice of lanolin based sealer. Ospho is cheap, comes in gallons, sprays like water, and goes a long way.
 

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