Look what followed me home today...
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- #102
Why Thanks 
Started on the boat sides late yesterday. The back end of the boat sides will incorporate the adjustable mounts for the upper links. I am also thinking that I will use the top of those mounts for a body mount for the rear of the cab.
Started on the boat sides late yesterday. The back end of the boat sides will incorporate the adjustable mounts for the upper links. I am also thinking that I will use the top of those mounts for a body mount for the rear of the cab.
R
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- #104
Thanks Ramon. I do use the band saw quite a bit, nice clean cuts on plate material.
Stan
Stan
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- #105
I spent a bit more time on the truggy today, working on the boat sides and the rear axle truss and upper link tower. This photo shows the basic setup, the blue tape representing the upper and lower links. The frame side of the upper links will be housed just to the inside of the outer bars for the boat sides, you can see the ends of the tubes just under the cab seams. The upper links will be adjustable in placement via mounts with 5 different mounting points spaced 5/8" vertically.
This photo shows the basic triangulation of the links. Brackets on top of the axle tower will hold the rear of the upper links. The towers will be gusseted for support. and strength. The tower also acts as a main support for the truss.
This photo shos the basic link placememt. The upper links are pretty close to actual vertical placement. The lower links will mount centered on the axle and centered vertically on the frame rails making the angle a bit higher than shown.
This photo gives you an idea of how the upper link tower also supports the axle truss. The area between the two 1/4" plates will be filled in with 1/8" plate acting as a gusset. The upper link tabs will be welded to the tower on the inner side and to the axle truss tube on the outside with a gusset between them.
This photo shows the basic triangulation of the links. Brackets on top of the axle tower will hold the rear of the upper links. The towers will be gusseted for support. and strength. The tower also acts as a main support for the truss.
This photo shos the basic link placememt. The upper links are pretty close to actual vertical placement. The lower links will mount centered on the axle and centered vertically on the frame rails making the angle a bit higher than shown.
This photo gives you an idea of how the upper link tower also supports the axle truss. The area between the two 1/4" plates will be filled in with 1/8" plate acting as a gusset. The upper link tabs will be welded to the tower on the inner side and to the axle truss tube on the outside with a gusset between them.
Looks great Stan. I do have one concern, what is the tensil strength rating of that blue material you are using for the links? That sure looks a lot easier to deal with than DOM tubing...
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- #108
Thanks Darin and Jerry. The blue material is just mock up tape. I'll be using Gorilla Duct tape for the final project, far stronger
The lower links will be 2" X .375" DOM Uppers will be 1.75" X .250" DOM
The lower links will be 2" X .375" DOM Uppers will be 1.75" X .250" DOM
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- #109
Another Sat in the shop. I was still waiting on Johnny joints so I figured I’d deal with one of the front body mounts, what’s left at least. Started with this
Kept and duplicated with 1/8” plate both sides, 1/8” plate top piece, 1/8”plate down the side and along top to tie back to stronger material.
The A Post on the roll cage will have a ¼” plate on the base, it will bolt through the 1/8” plate body mount to a ¼” plate on the frame.
Kept and duplicated with 1/8” plate both sides, 1/8” plate top piece, 1/8”plate down the side and along top to tie back to stronger material.
The A Post on the roll cage will have a ¼” plate on the base, it will bolt through the 1/8” plate body mount to a ¼” plate on the frame.
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- #111
Thanks Darin. Not a whole lot left to weld to on the body in some places. I am getting to work on the truggy after I get done with lunch
I am going to be messing with rear links, Jerry talked me out of using the tape.
I am going to be messing with rear links, Jerry talked me out of using the tape.
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- #113
LOL, I use tape a lot for refference points. I had several pieces in the cab the other day getting a feel for driver and passenger positioning. Well be running 4 point harnesses, I cant handle a sub nor can Heather, so everything has to be within arms reach in the seat.
I will wait until I mock up the seats to be sure but I may be using something like Atlas Cable Remote shifters for the transfer case. The crawl box shoud be far enough forward. Time will tell.
I will wait until I mock up the seats to be sure but I may be using something like Atlas Cable Remote shifters for the transfer case. The crawl box shoud be far enough forward. Time will tell.
- Thread starter
- #114
In the beginning you figure out the basics, wheelbase,tire size, target weight, CG Height. You take all your basic measurements from your rear axle center to where in space you plan to mount the links.
Figure it all out on the 4 link calculator, changing dimensions in small increments to improve the numbers you are shooting for. You come to a set of numbers that work, at least on the computer.
Then you start building it, I did the axle side first. I built the frame side upper link mounts, 5 way adjustable. I made up a pair of links, attached one end to the axle side, the other to the frame side link and used that to position the frame side link. A little masaging of the numbers and they were tacked in where they are going to live.
Plugged the new numbers into the calculator , a little massage on the lower link numbers and I will be good. Now to support the upper link mounts
Figure it all out on the 4 link calculator, changing dimensions in small increments to improve the numbers you are shooting for. You come to a set of numbers that work, at least on the computer.
Then you start building it, I did the axle side first. I built the frame side upper link mounts, 5 way adjustable. I made up a pair of links, attached one end to the axle side, the other to the frame side link and used that to position the frame side link. A little masaging of the numbers and they were tacked in where they are going to live.
Plugged the new numbers into the calculator , a little massage on the lower link numbers and I will be good. Now to support the upper link mounts
That is one thing i am Really interested in. Trying to get a handle on this type of fab. If i could help someone with this just once i think i could get it right. Just the first time trying to get everything just right number wise.
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- #116
I would suggest reading Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams. It is more a book on building race car chassis but everything you need to know about the basics is there. It'll get you thinking for sure.
The very best case scenerio is to build from the ground up. This way you can work the numbers much easier. If you are say linking an 80 rear end, you have any number of limiting factors. Sometimes the numbers you begin with end up with the end link trying to occupy space that already has something there.
I have the removable cross member for the lower link mounts on the frame side drawn, It needs a little tweaking.
The very best case scenerio is to build from the ground up. This way you can work the numbers much easier. If you are say linking an 80 rear end, you have any number of limiting factors. Sometimes the numbers you begin with end up with the end link trying to occupy space that already has something there.
I have the removable cross member for the lower link mounts on the frame side drawn, It needs a little tweaking.
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- #117
All four links in place. Cross member and cage in the upper link frame mounts is next.
Looks great! PVC is a big improvement over painters tape, strength wise. And they slide over rocks really good. Have you sat inside and made motor noises yet?
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- #119
Thanks James. Yeah I figured the PVC would hold up better than the tape on the rough stuff. Who needs stinkin steel. No motor noises yet, no where to sit yet either