Long travel rear for a 100 series (1 Viewer)

[BurnsCrew]

Hello all,

I decided to create this thread to help others and to be a one stop shop for any questions regarding the long travel set up I have in the rear.

I am not running sway bars. And I’m at -6 offset on 315/70r18 Yokohama geolanders. I’ve trimmed the front fenders about 1” and added 1/4” bump stop drops to the front.

Parts
Rear springs
Dobinsons dual rate springs in either 2.5” or 3.5” from an 80 series

Shocks
Ironman Foam cell pro shocks for a 80 series running 4” lift

Shock info
Stock Ironman Foam cell pro rear shock specs

For 100 series:
45796FE is 615mm extended and 401mm compressed

For 80 series
The 4” is 45862LFE is 670mm extended (26.3”) and 409mm compressed (16.1”) running this with a 2” Bumpstop drop and 2” axle shock mount raise

Kings are 25.11” and 15.27” collapsed and extended
Custom length id want 26” extended and 16” collapsed.

Another option is the icon shocks for a 100 series. I believe the specs were almost identical to the 4” IMFCP shocks.

Bumpstop drop (important)
Disclaimer: if you have the incorrect bumpstop drop length for your shock choice, you will prematurely ruin your shock.

If you leave the axle side shock mount alone, all you need is to add 3/8” bumpstop drop.
If you chop and raise the axle shock mount 2” like I did, you will need a 2” bumpstop drop.

I am running the delta 2” bump stop drop

Spring Retainer
Delta spring retainer, I believe cruiser patch is working on an option as well.

Optional:
Upgraded rear bump stops (I’d recommend Perry parts)
Axle side shock mount 2” chop and raise (this is why you would need a 2” bumpstop drop)
Another bolt on option for adjusting the axle side shock mount would be adding an AHC spacer from cruiser patch. I do not know how much this will raise the shock mount, but you will need to adjust your bumpstop accordingly.

 

[BurnsCrew]

Some additional photos of flex:

 

[FamilyCamper]

Thank you for putting all this together. This is awesome and great pics. Concise and informative. Can you explain in simple terms why you would need to do the shock mount relocating? If in the front the limit of the travel is the shock length and at full droop the shock is maxed out holding the weight, how is it worse in the back? Is it because of all the weight of the rear axle? Also can you talk about how to make sure you extend bump stops the correct amount for the shock?? Thank you.

 

[BurnsCrew]

Thank you for putting all this together. This is awesome and great pics. Concise and informative. Can you explain in simple terms why you would need to do the shock mount relocating? If in the front the limit of the travel is the shock length and at full droop the shock is maxed out holding the weight, how is it worse in the back? Is it because of all the weight of the rear axle? Also can you talk about how to make sure you extend bump stops the correct amount for the shock?? Thank you.

For the rear, raising the shock mount for me is 2 fold. 1) more clearance 2) more droop. I hardly ever hit the shock mount on rocks anymore and I’ve got 2” more droop (from the relocate)

The OEM design on the rear is for the shock to be the limiting factor, so I do not think it is bad for it.

Only reason I added 1/8” bump stop drop in the front was to limit up travel.

Cheers

 

[FamilyCamper]

This makes a lot of sense thank you! I think I will be doing this. Did you have to extend brake lines in the back or relocate any?

 

[BurnsCrew]

This makes a lot of sense thank you! I think I will be doing this. Did you have to extend brake lines in the back or relocate any?

Ah yea, I also used some extended brake lines for a FJ cruiser from trail gear. I’m unsure when Toyota changed the brake lines on the model year, but the earlier models are different than the later.

 

[MechE30]

Slee sells extended braided lines too. Nice write-up Burns!

 

[BurnsCrew]

Slee sells extended braided lines too. Nice write-up Burns!

Ty. I hope it helps people.

In my opinion, the rear is where the magic is at for our trucks. Nothing to be had in the front end.

Also, I didn’t have to adjust my e brake cable or my abs lines. I may need to adjust my e brake cable but it seems alright for now.

 

[NearJetties]

Timely post. I’m picking up parts for this using Dobinsons shocks/springs based on this setup. i think they’re here but don’t know their mud name.

was doing some math on the bump stop height. I don’t plan on moving shock mounts.

Can I still run the swaybar with TT extended Hd links? Any adverse on road handling effects?

 

[hoser]

You certainly want the extended links otherwise you can bend the links or the brackets on the axle. The spring retainers are a good idea too.

 

[BurnsCrew]

You certainly want the extended links otherwise you can bend the links or the brackets on the axle. The spring retainers are a good idea too.

Seems like alot of people are starting to play around. With my set up I def needed the spring retainers. Been running it this way for 2 years. Attempted to run without them, and the spring was loose.

I also had extended sway bar end links from TT, they warped and bent. So I removed the whole sway bar assembly. Been running without a front sway bar for 4 years, and no rear for 2+.

 

[BurnsCrew]

FWIW, I ran IMFCP rear shocks because I already had them in the front and they are good for the price point. I didn’t want to mess up some really nice kings or something.

Now that I’ve had it dialed in for a couple years of hard wheeling, I’ll be putting some custom kings on the back, with matching kings up front. Really only holding out to see if anyone develops some kind of LT front kit.

 

[hoser]

Seems like alot of people are starting to play around. With my set up I def needed the spring retainers. Been running it this way for 2 years. Attempted to run without them, and the spring was loose.

I also had extended sway bar end links from TT, they warped and bent. So I removed the whole sway bar assembly. Been running without a front sway bar for 4 years, and no rear for 2+.

Well, the spring retainer thing is on a case to case basis but never hurts. Depends on the free length of the spring. I don't have the TT links but have bent other extended links. Some sway is better than no sway bar, even for rock crawling. I would go with a rear/frame mount sway bar (@jcardona1 ) but my aux tank is in the way.

 

[BurnsCrew]

Well, the spring retainer thing is on a case to case basis but never hurts. Depends on the free length of the spring. I don't have the TT links but have bent other extended links. Some sway is better than no sway bar, even for rock crawling. I would go with a rear/frame mount sway bar (@jcardona1 ) but my aux tank is in the way.

Interesting. I disagree. Also, that appears to be an anti rock bar. That’s actually a torsion bar actuated sway bar, very different than our OEM set up. But the data still proves more droop without a sway bar vs even with a sway bar.
Least drop: sway bar
More droop: anti rock
Most droop: no sway

 

[BurnsCrew]

Some additional undercarriage shots. These were before I did the shock mount relocation, also before I added the eimkeith PHB correction kit.

 

[BurnsCrew]

My buddy did the cutting and welding of the shock mount relocation on mine (no photos) and these are the photos of his truck. He did his first, and I liked the idea so we also did it on mine with the longer shocks.

And here are some close ups. I believe he ran a sway bar for awhile afterwards. He is running the tough dog suspension. Without changing shocks and just doing the chop and relocate and bump stop drop, he gained a lot of down travel. He has a 1998 model, and did not need longer lines but spaced up his brake line.

 

[BurnsCrew]

One issue I ran into with the sway bar, was it contacted the rear shock body on droop and limited down travel. No good.
This may have been due to the size of the IMFCP shock body. With Alex’s tough Dog suspension, I don’t think he encountered this.

 

[ga12r1]

Interesting. I disagree. Also, that appears to be an anti rock bar. That’s actually a torsion bar actuated sway bar, very different than our OEM set up. But the data still proves more droop without a sway bar vs even with a sway bar.
Least drop: sway bar
More droop: anti rock
Most droop: no sway

You know people get weird when it comes to anti-sway bars Zach. It’s wild.
I doubt I’ll ever run them again no matter what I’m wheeling

 

[hoser]

Interesting. I disagree. Also, that appears to be an anti rock bar. That’s actually a torsion bar actuated sway bar, very different than our OEM set up. But the data still proves more droop without a sway bar vs even with a sway bar.
Least drop: sway bar
More droop: anti rock
Most droop: no sway

Well, I'm not here to convince you but the stock sway bar is a torsion style as well. The center section does twist. Your analysis is correct, no sway bar offers more droop but you are also short-sighted. Sway bars provided stability, predictability and control. I'm not saying the stock sway bars are best..... the spring rate is a bit high and the arms are short but "some" sway bar is better than no sway bar. I recognize there is a difference between a vehicle that has F&R straight axles and one that has only one straight axle.

I'm not going to further argue it but you might've noticed all JK/JL Rubicons came with sway bar disconnects but many experienced wheelers opt for sway bars. Many, if not most, Ultra4 trucks run sway bars too.

Edit: One more for you.... on a 30 degree side hill, with no sway bars, what is the angle of the body? Maybe 35 degrees? What is the body angle WITH sway bars? The answer: less than 35 degrees.

 

[BurnsCrew]

Well, I'm not here to convince you but the stock sway bar is a torsion style as well. The center section does twist. Your analysis is correct, no sway bar offers more droop but you are also short-sighted. Sway bars provided stability, predictability and control. I'm not saying the stock sway bars are best..... the spring rate is a bit high and the arms are short but "some" sway bar is better than no sway bar. I recognize there is a difference between a vehicle that has F&R straight axles and one that has only one straight axle.

I'm not going to further argue it but you might've noticed all JK/JL Rubicons came with sway bar disconnects but many experienced wheelers opt for sway bars. Many, if not most, Ultra4 trucks run sway bars too.

Edit: One more for you.... on a 30 degree side hill, with no sway bars, what is the angle of the body? Maybe 35 degrees? What is the body angle WITH sway bars? The answer: less than 35 degrees.

Interesting, I did not know that the OEM style sway bar was a torsion style sway bar. I’ll need to do some more research into that to get a better understanding of how it is/how it works.

Well, since we are talking about a 100 series with only a live rear axle, the body rolls much less. It’s quite different than a rubicon or any other type of jeep wrangler. (Like you mentioned) Also, we can probably agree jeep put sway bars on stock rubicons because of safety reasons. Interesting thought, why did jeeps come with sway bar disconnects? Because it affords more articulation with offroad.

I can definitely see how a sway bar would be beneficial on ultra 4 trucks, especially since they have a ridiculous amount of travel and often do high speed turns and maneuvers.

I can understand your concern for safety, as it is a good one. In my personal experience, my truck feels more stable without sway bars on -6 offset than it did on +25 offset and a lower lift. Especially during road emergency maneuvers.