Long Ranger 90L Auxiliary Tank Installation Pics (1 Viewer)

[MUDZLLA]

Just started installing a 90L Long Ranger Auxiliary Tank into a 1991 HDJ-81 Diesel Truck. Couldn't find another post on this so upping a few pics as I go. Posting here as I think it is largely applicable to US Spec gassers (except I didn't have to remove the tire carrier.)

Pic 1) The LR Auxiliary Tank - measured up for a wooden jig (to determine exhaust pipe clearances and modifications).

Pic 2) Chased all the captured nuts in the frame used for the brackets with one of these...

Pic 3) Tank support brackets and jig installed. Rear section of 3" PPD SS Exhaust has been removed for modifications.(more on that later)

Pic 4) Will have to shorten the exhaust 2-2.5" after the flange to clear the tank...

 

[MUDZLLA]

Pic 6) Cut out and removed the old filler and vent line - note i used a hacksaw since it was diesel. I think if it was a gasser I might want to use a Tubing cutter. You can also remove both lines at the main tank but it looks like a big chore. Had a 10 lb extinguisher on standby.

Pic 7) You just have to measure where the cut needs to be based on the supplied connector hoses.

Pic 8) Double filler neck. The old cap no longer fits so I need to buy the recommended one. Looks like you can just choose which tank to fill.

Pic 9) I cut the main tank vent line back a few inches to insert the tee for the new transfer pump.

Pic 10) another view

 

[MUDZLLA]

Pic 11) attaching the filler hoses. connected to main tank.

Pic 12) Hoses ready to connect to auxiliary tank. Note the transfer line tee-ed into the main tank vent line. (not sure if that's where it's supposed to go but its easy to access.)

Pic 13) Another view

14) The transfer pump and filter will be next.

Pic 15) Here's the pump switch. It basically needs power and ground. Another 2 wires go back to the tank - one to power the pump and the other for the level sending unit.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Pic 11) Added my own 2-wire connector to facillitate future tank removal. Soldered connectors, then tested resistance back to cab.

Pic 12) Prepped transfer pump for installation: mounted onto supplied plate. found longer bolt to install on diff vent line bolt.

Pic 13) Using the supplied mounting plate the pump was bolted up to a captured nut used for the rear differential vent line. My connector is shown hanging, These are the supplied wires that run up into cab.

Pic 14) Added my own bracket on pump lower bolt and secured to frame with rivets. Note spacer used to stand off pump from frame.

Pic 15) 2-wire bundle (pump power and tank sender) to cab, run along brake lines.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Pic 16) Pulled tank into position from the floor with a couple ratchet straps until I could lift the tank with a pair of RV jacks.

Pick 17) My rickety rigging. I kept the ratchet straps on for safety until the tank bolts were started. Watch for snags and carefully jack into place.

Pic 18) Bolts started!

Pic 19) Fill and vent lines connected to Auxiliary tank. Silicon spray helps to get the hoses to slide into place.

Pic 20) Aux tank pickup hose is now connected to the transfer pump. Grounding secured and loose wiring tied up.

 

[Toy4Fun2]

Subscribed

 

[duece71]

Excellent. Subbed.

 

[boydmick]

Nice, keep going….

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Yup I'm here too.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Nice, keep going….

Almost done. Just waiting on modified tailpipe. Plus the pump switch installation. May be a few days.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Pic 21) The modified 3" exhaust is fit-up. (removed 2-1/2" at this exhaust flange - no rotation. 2" or 2-1/4" would have been better for panhard clearance.)

Pic 22) 3" PPD exhaust routing... almost an inch of clearance to tank!

pic 23) Added the removed 2-1/2" section back here just before the hangar - again no rotation but 5 deg CW in direction of flow would have helped fitup.

Pic 24) twisted hangar to fit and got er in. Ran truck for 15 mins and warmed up the muffler cement to help it set. Exhaust sounds good.

Pic 25) All done. Mounted the switch here above the media unit. The gauge/pump switch literally fell apart as I was installing it. Waiting on new switch from down under. They're not really built to automotive standards but they work well when they work. Best to keep the gauge in sight or you forget to turn the pump off.

 

[80t0ylc]

I've had my 90L (or 24 gallon) LRA installed in my '94 gasser for about 6 yrs now and you speak, IMHO, truthfully about that switch/gauge. I'm fed up with the performance of it as a switch for the pump. It's just too temperamental, however the gauge has been fine. I have not been able to rely that the extra fuel I'm carrying can be transferred into the main tank. I've actually had to drop out of group runs due to a lack of confidence. My fix, but it's not complete yet, is to put another switch in just for the pump. I figure I can just disconnect the yellow wire, and run it through a switch to a 12v supply. The gauge should still function normally, plus the red LED should also tell me when the tank is empty. I don't care about the auto turn off function of the switch for 2 reasons. 1st, when running the transfer, I'm OCD or constantly watch the aux gauge drop and the main gauge increase. 2nd, the flow is slow enough, so if you overfill the main, it will just flow back into the aux tank in the filler neck, not spilling any on the ground. Also, it looks like your pump's location complies with the pump's requirement to be within 6" (15.24 cm) from the bottom of aux the tank. I've found that this is essential for good pump performance. You've done an excellent job documenting your install. The neat thing about this size tank is that it almost perfectly doubles the 80's fuel capacity and range. I've got a dent in my tank, so just advising to watch exiting ledges while off road. Another consideration is if your rear sags with full tanks, cargo and maybe trailer tongue weight, you might consider air bags. I tow an off road trailer with OME 2.5" lift and since the LRA install, Airlift air bags solved my problem. Good luck with your build!

 

[MUDZLLA]

I've had my 90L (or 24 gallon) LRA installed in my '94 gasser for about 6 yrs now and you speak, IMHO, truthfully about that switch/gauge. I'm fed up with the performance of it as a switch for the pump. It's just too temperamental, however the gauge has been fine. I have not been able to rely that the extra fuel I'm carrying can be transferred into the main tank. I've actually had to drop out of group runs due to a lack of confidence. My fix, but it's not complete yet, is to put another switch in just for the pump. I figure I can just disconnect the yellow wire, and run it through a switch to a 12v supply. The gauge should still function normally, plus the red LED should also tell me when the tank is empty. I don't care about the auto turn off function of the switch for 2 reasons. 1st, when running the transfer, I'm OCD or constantly watch the aux gauge drop and the main gauge increase. 2nd, the flow is slow enough, so if you overfill the main, it will just flow back into the aux tank in the filler neck, not spilling any on the ground. Also, it looks like your pump's location complies with the pump's requirement to be within 6" (15.24 cm) from the bottom of aux the tank. I've found that this is essential for good pump performance. You've done an excellent job documenting your install. The neat thing about this size tank is that it almost perfectly doubles the 80's fuel capacity and range. I've got a dent in my tank, so just advising to watch exiting ledges while off road. Another consideration is if your rear sags with full tanks, cargo and maybe trailer tongue weight, you might consider air bags. I tow an off road trailer with OME 2.5" lift and since the LRA install, Airlift air bags solved my problem. Good luck with your build!

Thanks. I considered replacing the broken switch with a 0-90 Ohm fuel gauge and switch combo but I already had the wiring in place and a hole in the dash. Long Range America still has not responded about a replacement so I went directly to the supplier (Blue LPG) for a replacement as it was cheaper than on eBay. These items are usually made in China and resold by Australia under a new name but even Alibaba didn't have one. Should cost about $30.00 to replace IMO (or one free replacement from LRA).

I also ran a tank on another HDJ-81 for 10 years with no issues. Paid someone to install that one though.

EDIT: Switch Suppliers:
1. LongRange America: $80 USD Plus Shipping
2. Blue LPG Australia: $110 USD incl Shipping
3. APEXUS Directly:
Attn: Andre Mielke, Director / Electronic Engineer
email: Andre Mielke <andre.mielke@apexus.com.au>
Order Item No. PG210b-2a
Cost AUD$44.95
Freight AUD$27.25 (AU Post to Canada)
Total AUD$72.20 (~$48 USD)