Long Island 05/1981 FJ40
- Thread starter dr_dobro
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
Not many hours spent as I would’ve liked, chassis started to get too heavy for me, glad my kid still living at home !
Did some final rear suspension dialing, gaining about 1 1/2” of ground clearance (empty). Trying to figure out the wheel base but not before mounting the body so I can fabricate the rear shock tower/roll cage support and move forward with drivetrain
Did some final rear suspension dialing, gaining about 1 1/2” of ground clearance (empty). Trying to figure out the wheel base but not before mounting the body so I can fabricate the rear shock tower/roll cage support and move forward with drivetrain
- Thread starter
- #24
Cowl is temporarily bolted to tub while tub is fully secured to the frame. One custom slider is completely mocked so I can copy the mounts for the other side. Still needs rear suspension guessing while waiting for the beadlocks. Soon will have to start doing body work so I can mock the roll cage
- Thread starter
- #25
I haven’t touched this 40 until this weekend, between building a 40 for a local friend and the acquisition of an FJ60, time just flew by.
Making some changes with the build, now that I have a 60 with us by keeping her al Toyota.
- Inastalling an LS (L33) I had for over 10 years
- Brand New NV4500 (from new venture) I had for a long time as well)
- Atlas 2 speed case (also with me before covid)
- A 14 bolt rear build up, stick 30 spline shafts, ARB locker and 6 lug hubs conversion
Made a Toyota Diff hold tool for re gearing. Its a two piece component to be installed easily on a vise
Finally swapped the center floor section from the old 79. Made a small cut mistake by the passenger floor (didn’t measure right). Not that bad .
Making some changes with the build, now that I have a 60 with us by keeping her al Toyota.
- Inastalling an LS (L33) I had for over 10 years
- Brand New NV4500 (from new venture) I had for a long time as well)
- Atlas 2 speed case (also with me before covid)
- A 14 bolt rear build up, stick 30 spline shafts, ARB locker and 6 lug hubs conversion
Made a Toyota Diff hold tool for re gearing. Its a two piece component to be installed easily on a vise
Finally swapped the center floor section from the old 79. Made a small cut mistake by the passenger floor (didn’t measure right). Not that bad .
- Thread starter
- #27
Aftermarket stuff is never that straight forward!
13 bolt cover came warped not sitting flush, took about 1/8” of material done by hand grinding, straight edge paint and about 1.30 hrs of my time (didn’t way to spent the $ on a machine shop). Cover sits within 1/32”, clamped down is flush metal to metal.
Proceeded to cut the bottom peak of the housing, 4 saw zall blades and about one hour, thing is gone. Still have 1/4” of protective material left.
Setting up the truss/pinion support to find out about a 1/2” of a gap by the tube end notches….. more trimming to do!
Still, like this truss to be able to run the arb fitting through the housing without being inaccessible
Edit: idiot of me placed the pinion support cover over the truss, it’s backwards….. still didn’t fit quite well just less trimming and alignment work.
Getting it ready for a fresh 4.88 gear set and the arb carrier soon
13 bolt cover came warped not sitting flush, took about 1/8” of material done by hand grinding, straight edge paint and about 1.30 hrs of my time (didn’t way to spent the $ on a machine shop). Cover sits within 1/32”, clamped down is flush metal to metal.
Proceeded to cut the bottom peak of the housing, 4 saw zall blades and about one hour, thing is gone. Still have 1/4” of protective material left.
Setting up the truss/pinion support to find out about a 1/2” of a gap by the tube end notches….. more trimming to do!
Still, like this truss to be able to run the arb fitting through the housing without being inaccessible
Edit: idiot of me placed the pinion support cover over the truss, it’s backwards….. still didn’t fit quite well just less trimming and alignment work.
Getting it ready for a fresh 4.88 gear set and the arb carrier soon
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- Thread starter
- #28
Gathering parts, waiting for some miscellaneous and looking for new old stock realised I don’t t have everything I need to start. At least I can drill and tap the 1/4-18 NPT fitting for the bulkhead and clean it up one more time.
Hubs appears to be within in spec to the original one. Bought them from solid Axle.
Need to send the shafts out so they can turn the flanges to match the hub diameter
I pulled a new set of the 4.88 9.5” (running them in the front of the 40) to compare sizes. First time running such a 14 bolt vs the good old school 9” Ford third.
Axle for sure is a boat anchor. Hopefully will articulate better being this heavy
Hubs appears to be within in spec to the original one. Bought them from solid Axle.
Need to send the shafts out so they can turn the flanges to match the hub diameter
I pulled a new set of the 4.88 9.5” (running them in the front of the 40) to compare sizes. First time running such a 14 bolt vs the good old school 9” Ford third.
Axle for sure is a boat anchor. Hopefully will articulate better being this heavy
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- Thread starter
- #29
Trying to button down this 14 bolt always finding something new;
- Too many options with little outcome finding the right wheel studs with the right shoulder and knurl heights. These two came from a Dana 60 axle I had. Yellow is an ARP with a better match but need to enlarge rotors bores as it has a double shoulder step. Going to try some Ford ones next.
- While testing arb clearances, found 3 spots that needs attention. Aftermarket 13 Bolt cover fits perfectly with the gear assembly
- Had incomplete sets of hub bearings, ended up buying all new sets from Rockauto. Crazy cheap compared to east core supplies, and other vendors that sells you this as a kit.
- Pair of Timken SET76
- Pair of Timken SET38
- Pair of Timken Seals 2081
- Scaffold to hold the body while doing some more body work.
Pinion Bearing part numbers:
- Pinion Support: R1581TV
- Rear Pinion Support: Set 64
- Front Pinion Support: Set 328
- Pinion Seal: 2286 (GM 10.5” 14 bolt 98 and down)
- Too many options with little outcome finding the right wheel studs with the right shoulder and knurl heights. These two came from a Dana 60 axle I had. Yellow is an ARP with a better match but need to enlarge rotors bores as it has a double shoulder step. Going to try some Ford ones next.
- While testing arb clearances, found 3 spots that needs attention. Aftermarket 13 Bolt cover fits perfectly with the gear assembly
- Had incomplete sets of hub bearings, ended up buying all new sets from Rockauto. Crazy cheap compared to east core supplies, and other vendors that sells you this as a kit.
- Pair of Timken SET76
- Pair of Timken SET38
- Pair of Timken Seals 2081
- Scaffold to hold the body while doing some more body work.
Pinion Bearing part numbers:
- Pinion Support: R1581TV
- Rear Pinion Support: Set 64
- Front Pinion Support: Set 328
- Pinion Seal: 2286 (GM 10.5” 14 bolt 98 and down)
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- Thread starter
- #30
Finally had the chance to set up the carrier with gears.
Setting the backlash to the recommended .003” - 0.12” got me paranoid. Best setup, before marking the gears, got readings varying .00275” through .004”.
.004” being mostly everywhere.
Happy with The coast and drive of the ring. Thinking leaving it where it is ?
Lastly, really happy with that WFO Toyota Pinion Flange, so much more compact than the stock yoke.
Can wait to get this boat anchor out of my bench !
Setting the backlash to the recommended .003” - 0.12” got me paranoid. Best setup, before marking the gears, got readings varying .00275” through .004”.
.004” being mostly everywhere.
Happy with The coast and drive of the ring. Thinking leaving it where it is ?
Lastly, really happy with that WFO Toyota Pinion Flange, so much more compact than the stock yoke.
Can wait to get this boat anchor out of my bench !
- Thread starter
- #31
Axle is sitting on his place, centered and un tacked, awaiting for drivetrain mockup.
There was one issue I had to solve in the assembly process that I didn’t know. It was in regards of the aftermarket hubs; These hubs were machined for the first generation 14 bolt only (non ribbed) which are almost 1/2” taller than the second generation (ribbed) and what I currently have.
Typically, there’s a retaining ring that keeps the nut key in place on the spindle stub thread. Since the depth is now shorter, The wide thrust nut is now stepping out of the spindle stub, making the retaining ring impossible to install.
What I came up with is making a v groove in the key itself, now been lucky there were just two thread grooves on the nut to house this ring. The best layout was placing the split ring right under the notched key. As a test, tried pushing it out, in many ways, without the typical removal technique successfully.
The other issue is the axle shaft, it sits 1/2” shorter into the carrier than stock. There’s still plenty of spline surface while marking it and inspecting,
I think wil need to order the Yukon shafts that you can trim at the shop and have a spare set for the trail.
Axle is now a 65” WMS sitting on 40’s with the bottom of the frame at 23.5” AFF. I am sure this number will down when All the weight is in.
Here’s a summary of parts, also for my records:
- Ford ARP hubs studs: 100-7707
- Lug Nuts: McGuard 64805 (1/2-20)
There was one issue I had to solve in the assembly process that I didn’t know. It was in regards of the aftermarket hubs; These hubs were machined for the first generation 14 bolt only (non ribbed) which are almost 1/2” taller than the second generation (ribbed) and what I currently have.
Typically, there’s a retaining ring that keeps the nut key in place on the spindle stub thread. Since the depth is now shorter, The wide thrust nut is now stepping out of the spindle stub, making the retaining ring impossible to install.
What I came up with is making a v groove in the key itself, now been lucky there were just two thread grooves on the nut to house this ring. The best layout was placing the split ring right under the notched key. As a test, tried pushing it out, in many ways, without the typical removal technique successfully.
The other issue is the axle shaft, it sits 1/2” shorter into the carrier than stock. There’s still plenty of spline surface while marking it and inspecting,
I think wil need to order the Yukon shafts that you can trim at the shop and have a spare set for the trail.
Axle is now a 65” WMS sitting on 40’s with the bottom of the frame at 23.5” AFF. I am sure this number will down when All the weight is in.
Here’s a summary of parts, also for my records:
- Ford ARP hubs studs: 100-7707
- Lug Nuts: McGuard 64805 (1/2-20)
