awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Nicely done!
Locked up engine swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dominic Nicandri
- Start date
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I hope that aftermarket rack doesn't bite you in the butt. Not a job you want to do twice. The last two toyota racks I bought I'm pretty sure were south of $500 so not sure why you had such a high quote. I was thinking they were around $360. Perhaps I missed it but did you do the rear main seal? plugs? Coil packs? (they are notorious for failing). Timing belt? cam seals? front crank seal? hydro tensioner? thermostat? Did I mention 100s are maintenance whores? Is it time for rear trailing arms and ball joints yet? 
- Thread starter
- #63
I did rear main. The seller says the timing belt was 6,000 miles and one year ago. Inspecting the components I believe it to be true. Everything under the covers was shiny and new. They did not do the fan hub, however the hub on the dead engine was in good shape so I used it. SKF is the OEM on the racks that go into some of our Commercial trucks where I work, I trust them. Let's hope they hold up their end.I hope that aftermarket rack doesn't bite you in the butt. Not a job you want to do twice. The last two toyota racks I bought I'm pretty sure were south of $500 so not sure why you had such a high quote. I was thinking they were around $360. Perhaps I missed it but did you do the rear main seal? plugs? Coil packs? (they are notorious for failing). Timing belt? cam seals? front crank seal? hydro tensioner? thermostat? Did I mention 100s are maintenance whores? Is it time for rear trailing arms and ball joints yet?
I bought it as a non runner so all the fun running gear problems are next. AHC tune-up, bushings.. I pried on the control arms and didn't see any ball joint issues but the components on this thing are so huge my usual methods might not be enough.
- Thread starter
- #64
It runs! Well, only for a second because I don't have the AFM hooked up to the intake, but after hooking up all my wires, filling with oil, cranking until I got oil pressure and installing the fuel lines it fired right off. Very pleased. Now time to finish installing the exhaust and all the accessories, add coolant and get it up to temp to see what else is messed up with it.
One other good note, is that I had only ever before had it juiced up with a jump box. Upon installing a real battery, the AHC kicked in and picked the ass ever up off the bump stops. One less hurdle to overcome before shakedown although I will flush the system soon after because the hydraulic oil smells like dead fish.
One other good note, is that I had only ever before had it juiced up with a jump box. Upon installing a real battery, the AHC kicked in and picked the ass ever up off the bump stops. One less hurdle to overcome before shakedown although I will flush the system soon after because the hydraulic oil smells like dead fish.
- Thread starter
- #65
It's been a while, lots of home improvement projects and many small increments of reassembly but today was ready for a full startup. I tried fixing the air intake where the evap line fits but it snapped right off again. I can't figure out the vacuum line routing for the power steering switch so I just plugged the manifold port.
Lots of smoke at first from all the marvel oil burning off I think. Ran extremely smooth. Cooling system did not want to burp, need to spend a little more time there. Hot oil pressure seems a little low. What do others see?
Lots of smoke at first from all the marvel oil burning off I think. Ran extremely smooth. Cooling system did not want to burp, need to spend a little more time there. Hot oil pressure seems a little low. What do others see?
Something like this should fix your vacuum line—it's a pretty common thing. I had to do it to mine as well, although I can't find exactly what I used.
Wrong size, but right idea: Amazon product ASIN B0757DL9FW
Wrong size, but right idea: Amazon product ASIN B0757DL9FW
- Thread starter
- #67
No way to get that nut inside the air snorkel though.
I drilled the hole smaller than the threads, wrapped them in Teflon tape, and threaded the nipple into the plastic. The plastic is thick and pliable enough that it is very secure. Careful to not drill the hole too big, of course.
- Thread starter
- #69
Well it's all back together. Couple trips around the block on its terrible alignment but everything seems skookum so far. Alignment on Friday and lots of driving this weekend to see what breaks or doesn't work. Right now the only issue seems to be the passenger seat heater is inop, and I broke the stupid headlight trim.
- Thread starter
- #70
Truck sat outside for 3 days in the snow waiting to go in to the alignment shop this morning. Damn battery (brand new) was run down so I have some chasing to do to see where my amps are dissapearing to. Alignment shop verified the lower ball joints were effed, which I suspected and I had them replace them at the same time, I did not want to mess with them. Most of my tools are small european sized things... I don't even have a jack that works well on this tank. The result this afternoon is a running and driving LX470 and I love it. AHC ride is so nice, my main reason for getting one of these vs a LC. Got some new wipers to put on, clean a bunch of glass and do a bunch of ammeter probing tomorrow but the main goal is to put a bunch of miles on this thing and see what else breaks. So far, so good. I am impressed with the torque of the 2UZ, fat and down low which I could have guessed looking at the tiny and long intake tract.
Party time!
Party time!
- Thread starter
- #71
Well today was the big day, lots of driving and testing. After initially having a crank no start issue because my stupid self was trying to use the key with the remote disassembled which must contain the chip too, I got it to start after dousing myself in gasoline.
Lots of cruising around town making sure nothing is leaking. No unusual sounds, no leaks. Temp stayed at about 40% scale, all HVAC works. I think the oil pressure sending unit is bad, at idle the gauge moves from zero to the 2nd line. I can't imagine the actual oil pressure is changing that much.
I spent the afternoon cleaning the inside but since it's barely above freezing I decided to take it through a car wash. First car with a power antenna (what is the point of these anyway) which didn't work. Guess what I bent in the car wash. Is there a fixed mast option that can be retrofitted?
Going to drive it all week before I put the skid plates back on. I noticed at highway speeds the hood flutter quite a bit. Not sure if they all do that or maybe because he aero is out of whack due to no undertray.
Lots of cruising around town making sure nothing is leaking. No unusual sounds, no leaks. Temp stayed at about 40% scale, all HVAC works. I think the oil pressure sending unit is bad, at idle the gauge moves from zero to the 2nd line. I can't imagine the actual oil pressure is changing that much.
I spent the afternoon cleaning the inside but since it's barely above freezing I decided to take it through a car wash. First car with a power antenna (what is the point of these anyway) which didn't work. Guess what I bent in the car wash. Is there a fixed mast option that can be retrofitted?
Going to drive it all week before I put the skid plates back on. I noticed at highway speeds the hood flutter quite a bit. Not sure if they all do that or maybe because he aero is out of whack due to no undertray.
- Thread starter
- #72
Not too often you get to try out a new vehicle in adverse conditions but we got about 2" of Cascade Concrete snow today. This thing is a tank! My Chevy Colorado 4x4 was sliding around some (on HT tires) but the AWD + KO2 were awesome. I was hoping to gauge if the limited slip was in good shape but I couldn't get it to break lose enough on this little snow. Very impressed so far.
Hood flutter happens to all these trucks. If you look under the hood there are two rubber stoppers that you can just twist to adjust to make the hood seal up better.
Even beyond that, some hoods still flutter and most just live with it. Its caused by the glue sealing up the two layers of the hood separating
The power antenna - there's a switch to the left of the clock on your dash to raise/lower the antenna. Also turning off the radio lowers the antenna. If the motor is working for it, the mast replacement is relatively easy.
forum.ih8mud.com
Even beyond that, some hoods still flutter and most just live with it. Its caused by the glue sealing up the two layers of the hood separating
The power antenna - there's a switch to the left of the clock on your dash to raise/lower the antenna. Also turning off the radio lowers the antenna. If the motor is working for it, the mast replacement is relatively easy.
Antenna Mast Replacement - How To
Attached is a description and pictures of my 2000 Landcruiser antenna mast replacement. Symptons: Antenna mast no longer went up and down, but I could still hear the motor working. I ordered a replacement antenna mast for $52.99 including shipping, from...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #74
Yeah I hit the button and I can hear relays clicking down in the passenger foot well but nothing ever moved. That was before the car wash and it was already bent a little.Hood flutter happens to all these trucks. If you look under the hood there are two rubber stoppers that you can just twist to adjust to make the hood seal up better.
Even beyond that, some hoods still flutter and most just live with it. Its caused by the glue sealing up the two layers of the hood separating
The power antenna - there's a switch to the left of the clock on your dash to raise/lower the antenna. Also turning off the radio lowers the antenna. If the motor is working for it, the mast replacement is relatively easy.
Antenna Mast Replacement - How To
Attached is a description and pictures of my 2000 Landcruiser antenna mast replacement. Symptons: Antenna mast no longer went up and down, but I could still hear the motor working. I ordered a replacement antenna mast for $52.99 including shipping, from...
Thanks for the info on the hood flutter. I'll try adjusting the stops.
- Thread starter
- #75
After driving the vehicle all week I am quite pleased. I don't seem to have any items related to the engine swing that need attention. Pat myself on the back for a job well done on that. Other things I have noticed living with this for a week;
-Climate buttons seem to need a hard or multiple presses to register - Not sure if this is a common problem?
-Windshield wiper linkage has a squeak somewhere. Nothing obnoxious, does it on the return.
-Rear wiper was not wiping the top of the glass- Found that the arm was bent and preventing the blade from flexing. Bent back into shape, all back to normal.
-Driver side exterior mirror does not dim. Passenger does. Is the drivers supposed to dim? Passenger seems to be connected to the rearview mirror inside.
-Power windows aren't the fastest things around... not as bad as my old Alfa or BMW but they're quite a bit slower than our newer Mazda and Chevy.
-Weird stuff with the remote unlocking. It seems that if I am far away from the vehicle when unlocking, the alarm does not disable and the horn sounds when I open the door. If I press multiple times, it doesn't sound and if I unlock the drivers door from closeby, the alarm won't sound either? Very odd. The beep happens in either condition.
- I think the trailing arm bushings are probably worn. I get a clunk when releasing the brake from a harder stop. I can't feel the clunk in the transfer case shifter so I don't think it is driveline related.
-Rear brakes are more worn than I thought. I had a squeak coming from a caliper, I think it might be partially seized. I read some of the posts on bleeding the brakes with the power accumulator- Is that process fairly straightforward as the posts indicate, or can it be problematic? I have only ever dealt with traditional master cylinders in the past, usually using a combo of a vacuum bleeder and traditional pump and bleed.
- Low fuel light doesn't appear to work. I had the needle buried on E and it took 22 gallons on a fill. Are the dash lights LED or bulbs?
-Climate buttons seem to need a hard or multiple presses to register - Not sure if this is a common problem?
-Windshield wiper linkage has a squeak somewhere. Nothing obnoxious, does it on the return.
-Rear wiper was not wiping the top of the glass- Found that the arm was bent and preventing the blade from flexing. Bent back into shape, all back to normal.
-Driver side exterior mirror does not dim. Passenger does. Is the drivers supposed to dim? Passenger seems to be connected to the rearview mirror inside.
-Power windows aren't the fastest things around... not as bad as my old Alfa or BMW but they're quite a bit slower than our newer Mazda and Chevy.
-Weird stuff with the remote unlocking. It seems that if I am far away from the vehicle when unlocking, the alarm does not disable and the horn sounds when I open the door. If I press multiple times, it doesn't sound and if I unlock the drivers door from closeby, the alarm won't sound either? Very odd. The beep happens in either condition.
- I think the trailing arm bushings are probably worn. I get a clunk when releasing the brake from a harder stop. I can't feel the clunk in the transfer case shifter so I don't think it is driveline related.
-Rear brakes are more worn than I thought. I had a squeak coming from a caliper, I think it might be partially seized. I read some of the posts on bleeding the brakes with the power accumulator- Is that process fairly straightforward as the posts indicate, or can it be problematic? I have only ever dealt with traditional master cylinders in the past, usually using a combo of a vacuum bleeder and traditional pump and bleed.
- Low fuel light doesn't appear to work. I had the needle buried on E and it took 22 gallons on a fill. Are the dash lights LED or bulbs?
- Thread starter
- #76
3000 mile update. All the repairs I made have turned out well. Oil pressure is low at idle which is unsettling but a manual gauge shows that it has about 8 psi at heat soaked idle which is within Toyota spec and clearly would have blown up by now if it was an issue, so I just have to learn to ignore the needle hanging out by the L mark on the gauge once it warms up. Contonues to drive nicely, no shaking or vibrations since replacing the front CV axles. I took it on a 900 mi round trip journey to Idaho a few weeks ago and besides drinking tons of fuel (13mpg with a 30mph headwind for a long distance) I am pleased with spending long periods of time at the helm. The only lingering powertrain issue is a check engine light for cam position sensor any time the engine revs over 3000 rpm for any length of time. Sensor replaced, timing verified and no driveability issue so I am thinking its a defective sensor or a wiring continuity issue. I intend to ignore it at this point it clears with 2 ignition cycles and driving like an old man around town letting it upshift at low RPM. I have also decided that the ECT Power button does absolutley nothing besides turn a green light on
DFXR
SILVER Star
Nice work on all this. I had very little to add except these little things:3000 mile update. All the repairs I made have turned out well. Oil pressure is low at idle which is unsettling but a manual gauge shows that it has about 8 psi at heat soaked idle which is within Toyota spec and clearly would have blown up by now if it was an issue, so I just have to learn to ignore the needle hanging out by the L mark on the gauge once it warms up. Contonues to drive nicely, no shaking or vibrations since replacing the front CV axles. I took it on a 900 mi round trip journey to Idaho a few weeks ago and besides drinking tons of fuel (13mpg with a 30mph headwind for a long distance) I am pleased with spending long periods of time at the helm. The only lingering powertrain issue is a check engine light for cam position sensor any time the engine revs over 3000 rpm for any length of time. Sensor replaced, timing verified and no driveability issue so I am thinking its a defective sensor or a wiring continuity issue. I intend to ignore it at this point it clears with 2 ignition cycles and driving like an old man around town letting it upshift at low RPM. I have also decided that the ECT Power button does absolutley nothing besides turn a green light on
The hood flutter is common. Freaked me out when I drove mine home the first time. I adjusted the stoppers and it still kind of flutters, 12 years later. But it has never flown open on the highway.
The low hot oil pressure reading is also common, I think it jumped out at me on that same drive home until I verified here on Mud that it was normal.
If you are done with your retractable antenna, you can swap in a manual one from a first gen Tundra. I even posted a thread years ago with pet numbers… search “Tundra antenna install” or similar.
Hope the trouble-free miles continue to pile up.
- Thread starter
- #78
I forgot about the antenna. I purchased a fixed Rubber Duckie style unit from some place in Wisconsin. Plug and play. Doesn't look OEM but works great and thats fine by me.
- Thread starter
- #79
Well here is a 6000 mile update. Build a bed platform and took a trip to Wyoming and Montana. Still has a check engine light if you spin it over 3000 rpm, I figure it has to be a wiring impedance issue or something. Did really well in the thin air, got over 20 mpg on one tank driving around Union Pass and Yellowstone. Speed just murders the fuel economy in this. I have had zero trouble from all the non OEM parts I have put on. Maybe time will tell but I still feel that any quality OE mfr like SKF, Mahle, Delco is going to be fine in the long run, just stay away from the Chinesium. All said I am really pleased with the rig. Wish the AC was a little stronger when its 100 out but beside that this thing is an epic road trip and camping rig which is exactly what I was hoping for.
