Locked up engine swap (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the info on the banjo fitting, yes it has the single dual sided silver piece.

On the exhaust, that's good to know. I guess I'll get the Toyota units since there is zero room to access the manifolds in situ, I want to try and avoid issues there. I'll definitely make sure to clean up the heads and manifolds well too. I got this thing cheap enough what's another $100. Only said that about 8 times so far on this project 😂

I'm sure you're aware, but hardware is 1/3 to 1/2 the price at a place like Partsouq. Takes a few extra days to arrive, but it's never taken more than 7 days to get from Dubai to SLC.
 
I did some Google searches for online Toyota parts. I got some from Earnhardt in Arizona they had good prices but not everything available. I had not heard about Partsouq. I'll check them out. Hopefully all that will be left to deal with will be AHC stuff once this engine is back in.
 
Can these nuts be re used or do they lose their capture tendency once torqued. Unlike the good engine, when I pulled the manifolds off the dead one, all the nuts came free of the studs. Got the nice shiny new steering rack in as well. I was prepared for a fight but it went in stupid easy. I spent a little time cleaning the splines on the steering shaft so it slid together easily.
My $.02 on the exhaust hardware: buy the Toyota stuff. The "weird design" is a pretty good prevailing torque feature. The nuts themselves are made from some pretty good stainless. One of the UZ problems is exhaust leaks - I can't help but think this weird hardware was implemented to help resolve this. You've made mention about hard-to-get-to hardware; some of these nuts are truly maddening, so why open yourself up to a tick-tick-tick out of saving a few bucks?

If you go the non-OE route, make sure you get flanged stainless hardware.

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Theyre meant to be a one time deal.
 
Some prep work tonight on the good engine after my plans to unite the tie rods went nowhere because my dumb ass threw out the jamb nuts on accident. Cleaned up the valve cover mating surface and reinstalled with new gaskets and cleaned up the exhaust ports and flanges. Some pitting on the collector, hopefully not as problem with new gaskets.

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Another watch out: 2UZ manifolds are truly notorious for cracking as it's a crap manifold design. Just google for "land cruiser ticking" or "tundra ticking". There are endless threads.

I would not reinstall those manifolds. New ones are available in the aftermarket at very affordable prices.
 
bet impex has new OEM stock logs for cheap. I don't know what's worse, cracking OEM, or thin 3rd party.
 
They're all thin unfortunately. only way to beat is to go with Thorley's, which are nearly unobtainium now.
 
It usually comes back as unable to fill. But I sincerely hope they are there.
I feel pretty good about reusing the manifolds off the locked up engine. The flanges cleaned up like new, as did the head surface. Just a little pitting on that one collector, if it makes noise I'll JB Weld and grind it down. Put a led in the tubes to look for cracks and holes and don't see anything. Spending money like crazy on this thing, I'll save a buck here and deal with the time later if it makes noise.
 
I feel pretty good about reusing the manifolds off the locked up engine. The flanges cleaned up like new, as did the head surface. Just a little pitting on that one collector, if it makes noise I'll JB Weld and grind it down. Put a led in the tubes to look for cracks and holes and don't see anything. Spending money like crazy on this thing, I'll save a buck here and deal with the time later if it makes noise.
I spent some time tonight working on refreshing the intake manifold and injector seals. Unfortunately the service pack I got for the injectors was missing half the seals so Rock Auto is sending replacements. Since I couldn't complete that task, I turned to reuniting the tie rods and getting the steering back together. I am having a heat pump installed next week and I need to clear my Alfa out of my basement garage to give the workers room so the Lexus has to go spend some time outside the shop so the Alfa can stay cozy. The damn inner tie rods on this new rack are so GD tight I could not unite them with the outers, so off came the outers and I spun them on and reinserted. Unfortunately the result is really crappy baseline alignment so hopefully this thing rolls. Lucky when it's done the alignment shop is only about 2 miles away and they can deal with this *#%&#$ inner tie rod.

Also had to order new knok sensor connectors. I was hoping the harness off the 98 woudn't be brittle but they both broke upon removal so those will get spliced in. Surprised at the brittle plastic although my wife is quick to remind me, this thing is almost 25 years old now.
 
Refreshed injectors. The old manifold grommets were totally destroyed and had to have been admitting a ton of unmetered air. Ready to go back in, waiting on missing o rings. All that's left to do now is getting the TC and flex plate off the locked up engine and then reassemble.

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While I wait for the knock sensor connector to arrive I finished my engine bay repairs, swapped heater hoses and Tees and the missing o rings arrived so the other injectors went in. Home improvement projects going to take some time here for a bit before I resume.

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Quick question, what size wrench / socket are the torque converter bolts attaching it to the flex plate. Not diameter and pitch... Trying to see if a flex head wrench will get on them. None on the locked up engine currently line up with the access hole.
 

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