iptman
SILVER Star
@afgman786 has recommended Tyson's Toyota in the past, service adviser John Boehm.
LOCAL Resources for Service, Parts, Tools, Supplies, Services Etc. (2 Viewers)
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Coleman Toyota is also good
Not really local. But want to give a thumbs up to the boys at Shenandoah Corrosion Control for doing a fantastic job of coating the undercarriage of my LX470 today. They were very thorough with the prep work including hitting some of the rusted areas with a needle scaler, blowing off all the dust underneath, and spraying it with a salt cutting solution. Then they also blew out all the dirt and crud from inside the frame and very thoroughly sprayed the inside followed by a thick coating of all the other areas. Looks good and hopefully it will last 4-5 years as they say.
Before coating
After Coating
Before coating
After Coating
Perhaps along the lines of PIPA's question above, looking for a good shop to baseline a new to me 62, and for regular servicing afterward. Relatively convenient to Moco or Northern VA. Larger goal is to get it to OTRAMM and figure out what bigger issues need to be addressed, but 6 months in I'd like to at least get the basics in order. DIY is not an option for me, sadly.
After action report: County Transmission did a great job, took them about 2 weeks longer than anticipated, but transmission is back in perfect working order. They also did my main engine to trans seal (leaking for 4 years now) and kick down cable for cost of parts only. Pricey: ~$4500, but comes with 3 year/150k mile warranty. Looked at used transmission swap: ~$2000 parts & install, or manual swap ~$11k, this was best option for keeping this cruiser going til I can hand it down to my kid.
Boogered up my front LCA ball joint threads--looking for an M18 x 1.25 die. . . anyone have one I can borrow or know where I might get one? (Have tried Home Depot, NAPA, Grainger, Somerville plumbing supply . . . seems like this is a weird size--Grainger has 250 die sizes and this ain't one of 'em). Fastenal has M18x1.5, but not what I need. . . .
Amazon product ASIN B09DCV975G
If you can't fix it with a thread file it's probably cheaper to buy a new ball joint.
If you can't fix it with a thread file it's probably cheaper to buy a new ball joint.
Yeah, it's beginning to look that way. Ordering a new ball joint right now from NAPA for pick up today. Before swapping, will try just cutting the bottom 1/8" off the stud--threads are only messed up at the very bottom . . .
Background for anyone wondering how someone does this: my puller had a cup on the press end--didn't even think about it as I put it on and tightened her up. Noticed the problem when the cup part stayed on the stud when I took the puller off . . . palm to forehead.
Not sure how buggered up it is but I would use a thread file. If you use a tap it could go on cross threaded and burger it up more.
If I want a moron I would’ve measured the thread pitch correctly (1.5) and had a die from Amazon here on Monday….
But I am and so I ended up replacing the ball joint….
But I am and so I ended up replacing the ball joint….
iptman
SILVER Star
Anyone have a recommendation for a radon mitigation company?
Mind me asking how much this cost? I am not sure I need it, any advice is appreciated. I am also in Herndon...Not really local. But want to give a thumbs up to the boys at Shenandoah Corrosion Control for doing a fantastic job of coating the undercarriage of my LX470 today. They were very thorough with the prep work including hitting some of the rusted areas with a needle scaler, blowing off all the dust underneath, and spraying it with a salt cutting solution. Then they also blew out all the dirt and crud from inside the frame and very thoroughly sprayed the inside followed by a thick coating of all the other areas. Looks good and hopefully it will last 4-5 years as they say.
Before coating
After Coating
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
You don't want undercoating or any of the "thick" coatings. All they do is trap moisture and promote rust. You want something like woolwax or fluid film that seals but doesn't build up. The thick stuff gets pockets between it and the substrate. You'll have rust form behind it and not know until it's too late. When I did collision repair in Boston the worst of the rusty vehicles were the ones that had been undercoated. The vehicles with nothing were better off. We've got several customers using fluid film and wool wax on their trucks and their frames look pristine.
I agree with this. The product used on my LX is
I paid $450
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How about when you have to work on it? It sounds like a big mess.
OMG, It is a PITA to work under the truck now
iptman
SILVER Star
Give it a couple months to dry out a bit and collect dirt and dust. It never solidifies but it does get to sort of a soft wax consistency. You definitely don't want to spray it down if you know you'll be working under it in the near term.
i think i'm done working under the truck (for the winter) and i've been debating buying a WoolWax kit. i think 1 gal is about right for an 80. my truck is rust free and i want it to stay that way!
iptman
SILVER Star
If you're buying the kit get the 18" 360 degree gun nozzle. I think there's an IH8MUD discount too. There's a thread in the 80 section with it posted.
yea, i've read through most (all?) of them. both the 18" 360* and 24" straight extensions seem like they are valuable and have their place.
