little orphan annie

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Did you ever figure this out? Did replacing the diaphragm in the t-case have any affect on the idle? I'm curious as my '63 is the same way, no matter what I do, it needs the choke pulled halfway to idle...if I'm on the freeway, I can close it (I guess I mean open it...you know what I mean), but that's about it.

Dan


I'm not sure if this would make a difference or not. It depends if the vacuum switch on the firewall allows the the hose without a vacuum to vent or not. I don't think it does. If it doesn't and the seal where the shaft attached to the diaphragm the goes into the transfer case is good then there is no place for a leak since the housing is sealed. If it dies vent then it would cause a vacuum leak.
 
I'm not sure if this would make a difference or not. It depends if the vacuum switch on the firewall allows the the hose without a vacuum to vent or not. I don't think it does. If it doesn't and the seal where the shaft attached to the diaphragm the goes into the transfer case is good then there is no place for a leak since the housing is sealed. If it dies vent then it would cause a vacuum leak.

Maybe that will help him, we plugged the line before the switching valve and it didn't help
 
Did you ever figure this out?

Still figuring her out...for a while, we just ran with the vac hose to the transfer case capped off to eliminate that leak. Running a bit advanced now, BB just at the bottom edge of the window, idle speed around 750, though it still seeks up & down about 25 RPM. Still leaks around the bottom butterfly shaft, hear I can't fix that. Supposedly idle mixture screw should be able to compensate for that, haven't figured that out yet. Idles with less choke now, maybe 1/8" to 1/4" of choke pull shaft showing.
 
took last night off, but monday and tonight were spent media blasting front seats in my homemade booth (pallet box with a plastic curtain) so i can paint them and send them off to the upholsterer.

passenger front had bad enough rust that every time you put it up, sat in it, bumped it just right, a bunch of rust flakes fell out. media does not like to take rust that bad off, so it's been painstakingly slow.

also got the license plate bracket bent flat again and made a brace and welded it in. both seats will need a touch of welding too as the backs are breaking free from their tack welds.

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Still leaks around the bottom butterfly shaft, hear I can't fix that.

You could put a big wad of axle grease around the shaft/opening for temporary diagnostic purposes, but the correct fix is to disassemble, drill out, install a bronze bushing, and drill the bushing to fit the shaft (if the shaft is un-worn).
 
got the blasting done tonight and the first coat of rustbullet on the two front seats. second coat will go on tomorrow night and will get paint going thurs so i can get them to the upholsterer friday....does it ever end;)

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getting a few things painted up...this will wipe out the paint the body shop mixed up for me, so i'll have to see if i can brownnose some more out of them later this year to paint the softtop bows and i'd like to clean up the rear floor before it goes bad ;)

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figure while the seats are out is a good time to down it...although today would've been a beautiful day for a drive.

new tcase output seal. drum looked pretty good. drum and speedo gear housing were soaked overnight to clean them up, scraped off the backing plate best i could and cleaned the shoes well. that was the only leak (except for that no surge tank thing....that may get fixed soon). hopefully now, it will be clean underneath (except for all the crap that still gets knocked off).

also found that there's no power to the drop light plug....yeah, small thing, but i have two of the lights, i'd like it to work) and the plug is dryrotted. thankfully, it's the same as fj55s and i'm pretty sure i have a spare 55 outlet somewhere.

also got all the new firewall grommets installed. pretty. couldn't find one for the shift cable...does anyone have a fact number for that one?

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I forgot if was you who was asking about the gasket between the windshield and cowl. I remember to take a couple of pictures of one this weekend up.

I have located the soft top clamps. Have the lug nut just looking for soft top door hinges.

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yup..it was me. i discovered at the st paddy's day parade that we do have the gasket. without the 40 trademark ribs and with a redish primer look, i mistook it for the cowl...but it's there :bounce:
 
i pulled one of the wiper motors for pighead to tear into. you can hear a click when you turn them on, but they don't work. pighead determined the inner shaft was gummed up badly. other than that, they look pretty dang good. inner and outer shafts have been soaking and will maybe go back together tonight.

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motor number one is almost done. a little scrubbing, soaking of the shafts, ultraslick and working the motor got this :bounce:

still need to do the rmckay1021 insulator mod :)

http://youtu.be/hzuyG9-DsZE
 
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still need to do the rmckay1021 insulator mod

Which mod is this? I have never had a issue getting the TNK wipers to work. Clean the shaft and brushes. Replace the old dried out grease and they work. It's getting the two to work together that's a pain. They never quite run at the same speed.
 
zornff saved me quite a bit of headache and cut me a deal on his later bows. now to fab the front main bow and get the pieces for above and behind the door. still waiting on fabric. last i heard it was going to be ready this week. fingers crossed. little mods to get bows to fit will be easy. modding bows, especially with just measurements to go on, much harder. may use this as a pattern to try to make some more bows later...we'll see how talented i end up becoming with a bender ;)

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good day! pighead got the wipers done! goofy to watch, but they work and the passenger side park even works (drivers side doesn't, but oh well).

also got a newer inspection lamp socket in since the old one was shattering, found the power issue (the fuse block was broken). while messing with it, we blew a fuse and sparked and thought we'd shorted the charge lite.

the fuse block wouldn't fit up to the fact bolt holes (it was bolted to the heater we removed when we got it) and that bugged me also. i think the fuse panel rocked and contacted a bolt to blow the fuse, not sure, but everything is working. i had a spare fuse block from the 45 that we used. it's the newer 6gang one.

we doubled the two white spades on one section and the green to the second section, then wired everything according to the old manual i have. it appears to be good.

next up will be throwing new headlights in. we're not sure if the headlights don't change between high and low beam or if the switch doesn't work, but i'm sure the headlights aren't bright since they're old, so new headlights should be an improvement.

nice to see a bunch of stuff getting knocked off the list.

http://youtu.be/0F3atQG_YYU
 
upholstery is done and a pic's worth a thousand words

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So freakin' cool Ige! Thanks for sharing!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
 
thanks all.

still have to figure horn button to relay wiring to get horns working and soft top bows. the top was supposed to be here friday, but ups now says storm is postponing it to tuesday. dimmer switch isn't clicking all the way, and someday, doors

a better shot of the seats (except for the yellowish tinge from the lights)

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