Little help or direction... ps pump or crank tick (1 Viewer)

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Oct 8, 2011
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Albuquerque, NM
Im dealing with this now, i pulled my whole front at once since i replaced my radiator. New water pump, thermostat, re built the powersteering pump, crankshaft seal, distributor o ring, oil level sensor gasket, new belts, ordered the blue hd clutch for fan never came from wits end off road!!! Decided not to wait easy change, denso radiator (for now), all new hoses, cleaned powersteering reservoir filter, new hoses for it too, oil pan gasket, phh hose, all new heater valve hoses, e.t.c... wouldn't start, so i top dead centered it on mark on "0" re stabbed distributor on number 1, she started, now i have a concerning ticking as well. With a hose to my ear i searched the 2 concerning points. Crankshaft area and powersteering gear.... that crankbolt very hard to get a 100% 305lbs...i have a 300 3/4 with a friend holding 14mm on flex plate. Got 300 with a little extra no cheater bar...but who knows with the +-4 lbs ... but it felt ok. Powersteering gear mehhhh not so sure... everything felt ok used a 5/8 box wrench to gap the gear. Im hearing the ticking not from powersteering area but right under the crank shaft....its a ticking noise... gets quiet when i turn wheels left or right all the way and hold. Let off starts again. Gets faster with rpm.. which both would i presume since they run together. It runs good so im not thinking its a tooth off on the distributor....my concern was steering but it sounds dead under crank with hose to ear. Any thoughts??
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
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129
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Albuquerque, NM
Man...i knew it was dex 3 and i read the bottle looking for it...i had a little in a bottle but 2 new ws bottles....my luck and stupidity... I'll change it tomorrow...ill drain as much as possible will it hurt anything if they cross? And you think to much torque?
 
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
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Albuquerque, NM
Is it possible to run motor without steering pump for small amount of time to troubleshoot noise before i have to back track this whole job? Just thinking out load here and smoked from today's work in the heat lol.
 
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I would look at the power steering gear, I’ve never gapped one? I just push the gear all the way on and run the nut down with couple ugga duggas on impact. If your gear got nicked at all it will make noise. Is the key still on the crank so you know the crank pully is where it should be? If so I would bet you nicked the gear. It will eventually go away or pull the pump find the nick and file it out or replace the gear. For me I use a leather glove and hold the gear with your hand and zip it off the nit with impact
Then put the gear back on by using a rubber mallet to knock the gear back on all the way and then hold gear with leather glove against and two ugga dugga to put back on
 
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Yeah, i marked everything i touch with paint pins, and was very careful to ensure i didn't move that crank key, replaced just as it came off. So since i put in wrong fluid I'll pull the pump and inspect tomorrow again... im assuming if i unbolt and tie back and start and no tick it's guaranteed to be the pump if not... I'll throw my wrench across the yard!!! Lol
 

flintknapper

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I would look at the power steering gear, I’ve never gapped one? I just push the gear all the way on and run the nut down with couple ugga duggas on impact. If your gear got nicked at all it will make noise. Is the key still on the crank so you know the crank pully is where it should be? If so I would bet you nicked the gear. It will eventually go away or pull the pump find the nick and file it out or replace the gear. For me I use a leather glove and hold the gear with your hand and zip it off the nit with impact
Then put the gear back on by using a rubber mallet to knock the gear back on all the way and then hold gear with leather glove against and two ugga dugga to put back on

^^^^

Can definitely work....but:


Torque nut to 54 ft. lbs

Yes, any nick in the gear will cause a ticking sound. Also if the gear is not seated all the way the 'mesh' will be incorrect and it will make noise. And of course the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) needs to be torqued fully to 304 ft. lbs. Proper ATF should be used. IF the OP still has a 'tick' after that....then further investigation is needed.
 
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Bend, Oregon
I’d say there is no way the crank bolt tightened to only 300 is in any way slipping at idle. You’d Also notice low oil pressure if that were the case. Agree it’s the ps pump gear in some way or the fluid.
 

flintknapper

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I’d say there is no way the crank bolt tightened to only 300 is in any way slipping at idle. You’d Also notice low oil pressure if that were the case. Agree it’s the ps pump gear in some way or the fluid.

Agree completely.

Crank bolt being off a small amount is of no consequence. However it's possible to be off more than one thinks IF you have inaccurate tooling (torque wrench is off) or you simply fail to apply enough torque.

A lot of folks buy inexpensive torque wrenches (one time use...the reasoning) with accuracy capabilities ranging from 4-6% Plus or Minus, so a possible uncertainty of 8-12% which could result in torque figures well under or over spec. (24 to 36 ft. pounds at the extreme).

I believe the OP will find his problem lies with the pump in some way....but who knows.
 

flintknapper

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Did the pump twice today, then thought it was the ac belt tensioner...it this point i can't even tell the changes in the noise.


A/C belt tensioner would be easy to check.

1. Loosen 14mm headed bolt in center of pulley (just a couple of revolutions).
2. Back off 14mm headed adjusting bolt (do this from underneath.
3. Remove belt and hand spin pulley. IF bearing is shot or dry it can be replaced with a 6301 DDU.

Adjusting bolt as viewed from underneath:

Tensioner install10.jpg


AC tensioner bearing.jpg
 

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