Limp mode then sudden engine off on highway

[PNWLX470la]

No cabin heat is sign of low or no coolant. Engine dying after no cabin heat. May be sign of overheating engine.

Possible to look for:
Some remove oil cooler, when R&R R&P.
Possible, didn't top coolant system properly. Or oil cooler water hose not secured properly.

Wish I had known about the no coolant part earlier! Towed the LX back to the mechanic who replaced my steering rack. He called today to say that all the coolant had leaked out, top of radiator is melted and engine over heated. Says I need to replace the engine and radiator and it will cost me $8k! I had no previous troubles and radiator/coolant were in good condition. I'm wondering if they took of some hose and forgot to clip it back properly...all happened within 15 mins of picking the car from the shop. Will go visit him tomorrow... Wondering if there is any way to hold them liable

 

[2001LC]

I feared as much.

This does point to shops servicing, resulting in low coolant. But that's not to say a coolant system failure, AKA bad leak! Didn't happen just afterwards.

One of the issues using any INDY shops, that works on all makes and models. Is they don't know the finer points of the 100 series. The "Achilles Heal" of the 100 series, is low coolant results in dash water temp gauge not reading actual water temp. It will read as if engine running cooler than normal. As its water temp sensor, is high in the system. So a few qts low (top of rad find seen looking in under cap). The water temp sensor is then in air pocket, which doesn't read air well. Air pocket temp is lower, then actually temp of coolant in block.

A few qts low, is also low enough. No coolant, reaches level of heater Tees. These plastic Tees, are in/on hoses between engine and firewall. So hot coolant is not passing through heater cores. So no or low cabin heat... The tell of low coolant!

________________Rack & Pinion Removal & Replacement (R&P R&R)_____

I use the mud method when R&R R&P. That is, I lift the DS of engine. I do not remove oil cooler/filter housing bracket, as Toyota FSM recommends. This lifting engine method, can bust old weak crumbling plastic heater tees. Which I know to look for, when R&R a R&P. If thes ebust, coolant leak out some at the time of bust and much more when engine started. During post inspection, includes looking for leak. Hard to miss that much, new coolant on ground.

Most shops use the Toyota book (FSM) method. Where they remove the oil cooler/filter housing.
With this method, most disconnect coolant hoses that come from LH side of engine block to oil cooler at disconnecting at oil cooler, and from coolant out flow side at oil cooler, that goes up water pipe in front of engine. Some drain block, other pinch off hoses to hold back coolant in block/engine

In any case, I do suppsect related to servicing. Was it accident possible due to under maintain 100 series on part of owner or negligence on part of tech or just bad luck in timing of a leak and low coolant already. I can't say, as I don't have enough info.

Hands on visual inspect would help make the call, of why. Pictures may help make the call. I'd need to see both in out sides of oil cooler/hoses. Radiator leak points if any. Heater Tees. Also know the and method they used with some detail of how service performed.

Bottom line easy way, is insurance claim. Either your car insurance and or their if they have business insurance. If they're at fault, they can pay deductible.

I would, push for new Toyota engine. I was recently told by parts manager I've used for 25 years and Toyota Dealership. They quot $15K for engine replacement all in. They're a $130/hr shop last I heard.

"Good" used (Japanisess manufactured) engine is second to new. But the time and effort to find a "good" used, is more Time & work than any INDY or Dealerships will spend. They just have a central yard they call, that ships whatever is around. So those are a roll of the dice. Unfortunately, many used resellers, pull VIN # off the RH head. So you can't do a remote PPO. Used engine needs very close inspecting and borescope.

But you may have to settle for a remain. Remanufacture, IMHO, not as near as a good, as good used Japan manufactured ie: 100 series, GX, LX, 4runner 4.7L 2UZ-fe engine. But whom remanufacture and what parts on what day. I've no a clue.

 

[2001LC]

Radiator plastic tops crack, bad old Heater tees and water pipe:

As plastic ages and dries, which any air in coolant system speed up the aging. The black plastics turns brown. If radiator cap stuck closed, system can't release pressure created by heating coolant. Excessive pressure above ~15PSI, finds a way out. To often that is, by blow out weaken plastic.
Old brown top, near end of life.

Bad plastic heater tees.

Just a lite pull on hot side, breaks them. lifting engine, pulls on them.

Water hose from block to oil cooler

Water pipe & hose from oil cooler:
Yellow arrows point to water pipe & hose

 

[PNWLX470la]

I feared as much.

This does point to shops servicing, resulting in low coolant. But that's not to say a coolant system failure, AKA bad leak! Didn't happen just afterwards.

One of the issues using any INDY shops, that works on all makes and models. Is they don't know the finer points of the 100 series. The "Achilles Heal" of the 100 series, is low coolant results in dash water temp gauge not reading actual water temp. It will read as if engine running cooler than normal. As its water temp sensor, is high in the system. So a few qts low (top of rad find seen looking in under cap). The water temp sensor is then in air pocket, which doesn't read air well. Air pocket temp is lower, then actually temp of coolant in block.

A few qts low, is also low enough. No coolant, reaches level of heater Tees. These plastic Tees, are in/on hoses between engine and firewall. So hot coolant is not passing through heater cores. So no or low cabin heat... The tell of low coolant!

________________Rack & Pinion Removal & Replacement (R&P R&R)_____

I use the mud method when R&R R&P. That is, I lift the DS of engine. I do not remove oil cooler/filter housing bracket, as Toyota FSM recommends. This lifting engine method, can bust old weak crumbling plastic heater tees. Which I know to look for, when R&R a R&P. If thes ebust, coolant leak out some at the time of bust and much more when engine started. During post inspection, includes looking for leak. Hard to miss that much, new coolant on ground.

Most shops use the Toyota book (FSM) method. Where they remove the oil cooler/filter housing.
With this method, most disconnect coolant hoses that come from LH side of engine block to oil cooler at disconnecting at oil cooler, and from coolant out flow side at oil cooler, that goes up water pipe in front of engine. Some drain block, other pinch off hoses to hold back coolant in block/engine

In any case, I do suppsect related to servicing. Was it accident possible due to under maintain 100 series on part of owner or negligence on part of tech or just bad luck in timing of a leak and low coolant already. I can't say, as I don't have enough info.

Hands on visual inspect would help make the call, of why. Pictures may help make the call. I'd need to see both in out sides of oil cooler/hoses. Radiator leak points if any. Heater Tees. Also know the and method they used with some detail of how service performed.

Bottom line easy way, is insurance claim. Either your car insurance and or their if they have business insurance. If they're at fault, they can pay deductible.

I would, push for new Toyota engine. I was recently told by parts manager I've used for 25 years and Toyota Dealership. They quot $15K for engine replacement all in. They're a $130/hr shop last I heard.

"Good" used (Japanisess manufactured) engine is second to new. But the time and effort to find a "good" used, is more Time & work than any INDY or Dealerships will spend. They just have a central yard they call, that ships whatever is around. So those are a roll of the dice. Unfortunately, many used resellers, pull VIN # off the RH head. So you can't do a remote PPO. Used engine needs very close inspecting and borescope.

But you may have to settle for a remain. Remanufacture, IMHO, not as near as a good, as good used Japan manufactured ie: 100 series, GX, LX, 4runner 4.7L 2UZ-fe engine. But whom remanufacture and what parts on what day. I've no a clue.

Thank you for the detailed explanation.
Update: negotiated with the shop. I will pay for all new parts, they will do labor for free. Following parts will be replaced:

Used 2uzfe engine from Japan with 75k miles
Acc belt idler pulley
Radiator hose lower
Radiator hose upper
Crankshaft seal front
Rear main seal
Radiator and cap
Spark plugs
Drive belt
T-belt w/water pump w/hyd tension adjuster
Alternator 130amp from Sequoia
Heater Ts

Following parts were already replaced in last two years:
Air-conditioner compressor/condensers
Rack and Pinion
Intermediate steering shaft
Wheel bearings
Tie rods
CV axles
Control arms
Rear coils (Kings)
Engine and transmission mounts
Front and back sway bar links

AHC works great with full 14 graduations delta between high and low

This 1998 LX470 used to be my daily drive and casual off roader. It is now going to be a dedicated overlanding / off roading rig.

Question: what other parts should I (might as well) replace since the engine is being replaced right now?

Appreciate the feedback and love this community

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Thank you for the detailed explanation.
Update: negotiated with the shop. I will pay for all new parts, they will do labor for free. Following parts will be replaced:

Used 2uzfe engine from Japan with 75k miles
Acc belt idler pulley
Radiator hose lower
Radiator hose upper
Crankshaft seal front
Rear main seal
Radiator and cap
Spark plugs
Drive belt
T-belt w/water pump w/hyd tension adjuster
Alternator 130amp from Sequoia
Heater Ts

Following parts were already replaced in last two years:
Air-conditioner compressor/condensers
Rack and Pinion
Intermediate steering shaft
Wheel bearings
Tie rods
CV axles
Control arms
Rear coils (Kings)
Engine and transmission mounts
Front and back sway bar links

AHC works great with full 14 graduations delta between high and low

This 1998 LX470 used to be my daily drive and casual off roader. It is now going to be a dedicated overlanding / off roading rig.

Question: what other parts should I (might as well) replace since the engine is being replaced right now?

Appreciate the feedback and love this community

Thanks!

That depends on the engine.

If you mean, it's a used 4.7L 2UZ that was manufacture in Japan. i.e. 100 series, GX470, 4runner, etc, and not the USA built Tundra or Sequoia. That is a great. Finding a good salvaged 75K miles 2UZ-fe VVTi, is near impossible in the USA.

I would scope cylinder. Also scope into valve covers, inspect for gunk buildup. Look at dipstick, for unsal color or lines, that may indicate bad oil service history or overheating.

Replace the intake manifold & throttle body gaskets. They're rubber and shrink with time.

I would not have them R&R crankshaft seal, unless leaking. Which a factory install would not be 99 out of 100 times, even on 25 yr old with 500K miles.

Make sure if, Timing belt pulleys replaced. The pulley bolt threads, are sealed. I use Toyota 103 FIPG (oil)

If oil pump O-ring leaking, which at 75K miles it shouldn't be. Have oil pump O-ring replaced.

Don't touch rear main if not leaking, unless it need be exposed. ie: non 100 series oil pan swap.

PCV valve if any question as to function. But it 75K miles, it should be like new.

Make sure to inspect the S.A.I pumps filter. Better yet, have a replaceable filter installed.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Warning:

If you mean, a JDM 75K miles from Japan. I'd really question, it legit.

JDM engines ( Japanese Domestic Market) are very good in most cases. When I was looking for 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi, about 7 years ago. I saw many JDM ads, claiming they had 4.7L 2UZ JDM. In every case, they were bogus. In taking with a 20 year veteran of importer of JDM. They said they don't see 4.7L 2UZ engine, ever. Perhaps they're now coming out of Japan, IDK but I doubt it! Just yesterday, I saw in a listing for 4.7L. Two mixed in with others, claimed to be JDM. I pointed to listing service to another in mud. I told him to ask for pictures, VIN#, doc's sometime that he could use to verify miles & origin of engine. He did, they never got back to him. Same as what happen to me years ago. If you question these guy, they don't get back (with any proof) usually they'll just not call you back.


In any case:
Ask for a picture of the BK 2 head (RH head, center, just below valve cover) VIN # plate. Do your homework, as if a PPO on a used vehicle. Run VIN # at Carfax and Toyota/ Lexus for service history.

Look my master thread under engine for links on difference and identification.

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[PNWLX470la]

That depends on the engine.

If you mean, it's a used 4.7L 2UZ that was manufacture in Japan. i.e. 100 series, GX470, 4runner, etc, and not the USA built Tundra or Sequoia. That is a great. Finding a good salvaged 75K miles 2UZ-fe VVTi, is near impossible in the USA.

I would scope cylinder. Also scope into valve covers, inspect for gunk buildup. Look at dipstick, for unsal color or lines, that may indicate bad oil service history or overheating.

Replace the intake manifold & throttle body gaskets. They're rubber and shrink with time.

I would not have them R&R crankshaft seal, unless leaking. Which a factory install would not be 99 out of 100 times, even on 25 yr old with 500K miles.

Make sure if, Timing belt pulleys replaced. The pulley bolt threads, are sealed. I use Toyota 103 FIPG (oil)

If oil pump O-ring leaking, which at 75K miles it shouldn't be. Have oil pump O-ring replaced.

Don't touch rear main if not leaking, unless it need be exposed. ie: non 100 series oil pan swap.

PCV valve if any question as to function. But it 75K miles, it should be like new.

Make sure to inspect the S.A.I pumps filter. Better yet, have a replaceable filter installed.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Warning:

If you mean, a JDM 75K miles from Japan. I'd really question, it legit.

JDM engines ( Japanese Domestic Market) are very good in most cases. When I was looking for 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi, about 7 years ago. I saw many JDM ads, claiming they had 4.7L 2UZ JDM. In every case, they were bogus. In taking with a 20 year veteran of importer of JDM. They said they don't see 4.7L 2UZ engine, ever. Perhaps they're now coming out of Japan, IDK but I doubt it! Just yesterday, I saw in a listing for 4.7L. Two mixed in with others, claimed to be JDM. I pointed to listing service to another in mud. I told him to ask for pictures, VIN#, doc's sometime that he could use to verify miles & origin of engine. He did, they never got back to him. Same as what happen to me years ago. If you question these guy, they don't get back (with any proof) usually they'll just not call you back.


In any case:
Ask for a picture of the BK 2 head (RH head, center, just below valve cover) VIN # plate. Do your homework, as if a PPO on a used vehicle. Run VIN # at Carfax and Toyota/ Lexus for service history.

Look my master thread under engine for links on difference and identification.

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

The shop in theory is a Toyota certified shop (technicians proudly trained by Toyota advertisement type), have good reputation and generally refuse to put anything other than OEM parts. So some reasons to trust what they say ( in theory).

Engine does need an oil pan swap with original.
All the seals and belts listed for change are things they said they must do with every engine swap. Will talk to them again with your recommendations.

Was told that engine vin was not available. I believe they got it from Japan engines inc in San Leandro in CA. Any experience with them?

 

[2001LC]

The shop in theory is a Toyota certified shop (technicians proudly trained by Toyota advertisement type), have good reputation and generally refuse to put anything other than OEM parts. So some reasons to trust what they say ( in theory).

Engine does need an oil pan swap with original.
All the seals and belts listed for change are things they said they must do with every engine swap. Will talk to them again with your recommendations.

Was told that engine vin was not available. I believe they got it from Japan engines inc in San Leandro in CA. Any experience with them?

All 100 series, GX470, etc. made for USA market, have VIN# on RH head. No VIN # never, a good sign.

 

[Zuberg]

Sorry to see this happen to your truck.

I may have missed it but what was the cause of the coolant loss/overheating?

Was the shop at fault? Or was it something else since you're footing the bill for the parts?

 

[PNWLX470la]

All 100 series, GX470, etc. made for USA market, have VIN# on RH head. No VIN # never, a good sign.

Guy said engine came from Japan and no vin number on engine over there...wonder if true?

 

[Mike NXP]

Sorry to see this happen to your truck.

I may have missed it but what was the cause of the coolant loss/overheating?

Was the shop at fault? Or was it something else since you're footing the bill for the parts?

It sure sounds like the shop was at fault since they decided to pay for the labor but someone stuck the OP with the parts replacement. If they were confident it wasn't their fault I don't think they wouldn't offer


I wonder if PNWLX can find some old pics showing radiator , wonder if it looks brown and faded or new and shiny.

 

[Mike NXP]

Guy said engine came from Japan and no vin number on engine over there...wonder if true?

I don't think that is accurate as all of the 2UZ have VIN stamped on right hand side of engine but I could be wrong.
** I didn't realize JDM versions were any different. Could call someone like Eaglecarsnw.com and ask him to check one of his imports.

Don't the Jap versions of the 2UZ also have a little symbol of the Yamaha tuning forks on the back of our motor or was I dreaming when I saw a picture of that somewhere?


This is the thread that I was thinking of and sounds like the yamaha stamp was just a theory

 

[2001LC]

The shop in theory is a Toyota certified shop (technicians proudly trained by Toyota advertisement type), have good reputation and generally refuse to put anything other than OEM parts. So some reasons to trust what they say ( in theory).

Engine does need an oil pan swap with original.
All the seals and belts listed for change are things they said they must do with every engine swap. Will talk to them again with your recommendations.

Was told that engine vin was not available. I believe they got it from Japan engines inc in San Leandro in CA. Any experience with them?

Guy said engine came from Japan and no vin number on engine over there...wonder if true?

Is the shops you're dealing with, initials VH?

 

[PNWLX470la]

Is the shops you're dealing with, initials VH?

No...it's in a suburb of Seattle

 

[2001LC]

Guy said engine came from Japan and no vin number on engine over there...wonder if true?

I can't say as I've never seen a JDM 4.7L. Nor do I know of anyone that has. So, I searched with COPILOT (MS AI). It say yes, JDM have a VIN #, on engine. But I found AI wrong before!

So I randomly called a JDM seller. Guy said just as I've always heard. He never gets, 4.7L from Japan!

I smell rotten eggs.

No...it's in a suburb of Seattle

IIDK them!

What did they say was cause of engine failure? Pictures?

I know, by what you first said, service was remove & replace (R&R) the rack & pinion (R&P). I'm sure nailed it as overheated, do to coolant lose or lack of. I'd ask also what method they use to R&R the R&P. Get very detailed info. It's the FSM (factory) method I see most issue arise. But even the ih8mud way, has it issues. The detail matters on ever step of the job.

Accident happen. Mistakes are made. How one deals, with matters.
If they're lying about engine, they can't be trusted. Go get pictures. I pointed in pictures in this thread. Where on your engine. Also get pictures of the JDM. I need 360 degrees, so plan on getting dirty.

I've another guy on phone now. He's just bought and 06LC. He now finds engine was oil starved (trashed). His bad for jumping without homework (studying vehicle engine history) and he knows it. But feels, salmen was "good guy". But how saleman (he's owner) handles it now, will speak for itself.

The world, is full of good people. We only wish they all where/are.

BTW: I do expert testimony, at $1,000 per hr.

 

[2001LC]

Was told that engine vin was not available. I believe they got it from Japan engines inc in San Leandro in CA. Any experience with them?

Buyer beware! Japan Engine Inc aka: Japan Engine & parts. (JE) IMHO is BS outfit.

I've been helping look for engine and advising in PM/DM, public thread in forum and on the phone. For another, needing and 4.7L VVti engine. He just bought 06, found to have been very poor PM oil service, oil starved. Engine is shot.

I contacted Japan engine & parts. I've gone round and round with them for about a week. Asking for pictures of a use 75K mile JDM 4.7L VVti, they claimed to have and would ship for all in $2,850.

I requested pictures of this used engine repeatedly, and ask they including VIN#. I get statement "Japanese engine do not have VIN #. I continue to ask for pictures anyway.

I can't say if a JDM has a VIN #, as I've never seen a JDM 4.7L. I called a real JDM importer. I got same answer I always have, and got again yesterday. "We never see/get any JDM 4.7L. I've a neighbor with a RH drive 80 series 105 from Japan. He said, no VIN, but does a chassis number on engine.

So they can send pictures of engine regardless, and they could included ID markings. Such as Chassis and casting marks on block.

JE, only gave me pictures of a remanufactured long block, ~7th day,of asking for pictures of used $.7L vvti. I continued to press them for pictures of used 4.7L I get statement: "Unfortunately, the used motor will not work. It will required some changes to make it work." WTF, more BS!

Every time over past ~8 years. I've asked for pictures of engine seller, claiming to be a JDM 4.7L . I get the same round-a-round BS.

Bottom line. Never buy the claims. Make them prove what they say! These so called JDM low miles. Are mostly, USA made high mileage 4.7L.

 

[Mike NXP]

Buyer beware! Japan Engine Inc aka: Japan Engine & parts. (JE) IMHO is BS outfit.

I've been helping look for engine and advising in PM/DM, public thread in forum and on the phone. For another, needing and 4.7L VVti engine. He just bought 06, found to have been very poor PM oil service, oil starved. Engine is shot.

I contacted Japan engine & parts. I've gone round and round with them for about a week. Asking for pictures of a use 75K mile JDM 4.7L VVti, they claimed to have and would ship for all in $2,850.

I requested pictures of this used engine repeatedly, and ask they including VIN#. I get statement "Japanese engine do not have VIN #. I continue to ask for pictures anyway.

I can't say if a JDM has a VIN #, as I've never seen a JDM 4.7L. I called a real JDM importer. I got same answer I always have, and got again yesterday. "We never see/get any JDM 4.7L. I've a neighbor with a RH drive 80 series 105 from Japan. He said, no VIN, but does a chassis number on engine.

So they can send pictures of engine regardless, and they could included ID markings. Such as Chassis and casting marks on block.

JE, only gave me pictures of a remanufactured long block, ~7th day,of asking for pictures of used $.7L vvti. I continued to press them for pictures of used 4.7L I get statement: "Unfortunately, the used motor will not work. It will required some changes to make it work." WTF, more BS!

Every time over past ~8 years. I've asked for pictures of engine seller, claiming to be a JDM 4.7L . I get the same round-a-round BS.

Bottom line. Never buy the claims. Make them prove what they say! These so called JDM low miles. Are mostly, USA made high mileage 4.7L.

Interesting information, thanks for sharing. I could have swore that in my random internet searching I would see RHD 100 series from Japan and it would show the 2UZ
>> Like this . Claims it came from Japan and lists a shorter VIN as well . I wonder how legit that is

 

[PNWLX470la]

Buyer beware! Japan Engine Inc aka: Japan Engine & parts. (JE) IMHO is BS outfit.

I've been helping look for engine and advising in PM/DM, public thread in forum and on the phone. For another, needing and 4.7L VVti engine. He just bought 06, found to have been very poor PM oil service, oil starved. Engine is shot.

I contacted Japan engine & parts. I've gone round and round with them for about a week. Asking for pictures of a use 75K mile JDM 4.7L VVti, they claimed to have and would ship for all in $2,850.

I requested pictures of this used engine repeatedly, and ask they including VIN#. I get statement "Japanese engine do not have VIN #. I continue to ask for pictures anyway.

I can't say if a JDM has a VIN #, as I've never seen a JDM 4.7L. I called a real JDM importer. I got same answer I always have, and got again yesterday. "We never see/get any JDM 4.7L. I've a neighbor with a RH drive 80 series 105 from Japan. He said, no VIN, but does a chassis number on engine.

So they can send pictures of engine regardless, and they could included ID markings. Such as Chassis and casting marks on block.

JE, only gave me pictures of a remanufactured long block, ~7th day,of asking for pictures of used $.7L vvti. I continued to press them for pictures of used 4.7L I get statement: "Unfortunately, the used motor will not work. It will required some changes to make it work." WTF, more BS!

Every time over past ~8 years. I've asked for pictures of engine seller, claiming to be a JDM 4.7L . I get the same round-a-round BS.

Bottom line. Never buy the claims. Make them prove what they say! These so called JDM low miles. Are mostly, USA made high mileage 4.7L.

How about needing to change the oil pan? Is that for US remans as well or only for the Japan imports?

 

[2001LC]

Interesting information, thanks for sharing. I could have swore that in my random internet searching I would see RHD 100 series from Japan and it would show the 2UZ
>> Like this . Claims it came from Japan and lists a shorter VIN as well . I wonder how legit that is

I'm not saying there aren't any 4.7L LC/LX in Japan. The "short" VIN, is a chassis number, according to my neighbor with a RHD 105 80 series from Japan.

There's a lot of myth around used JDM parts, ie. engines. They're considered very good engine. They're typically advertised as having 50K miles. Basically, it has to do with cost of used vehicle inspection in Japan.

What I've read and heard about JDM parts, and why they're imported to USA. Has to due cost of inspection, and conception by the Japanese people that at 10 yr 100K miles or sooner. Vehicle have little value. They end up in salvage yards, even though running and not wrecked. These vehicles are stripped down, and parts exported for sale. In the USA, we've importers that specialize in JDM parts.

With used engines from Japan. I don't know, if we can get the service history or mileage with a chassis number or any identifying info on engine. As I've never seen a used JDM engine. Thus no ID number (VIN or Chassis), for me to even attempt to get history.

As I mentioned in earlier post. Every actually JDM importers. I spoken with, Said: "they've never seen a 4.7L come in". Why don't these show up here? Is it due to so few used 4.7L in Japan? Or those that owen them, can afford the cost and believe as we do. 4.7L last 1 millions or more? IDK.

4.7L made in Japan for 100 series, GX for runner, ect., for USA market. Have a VIN# plate riveted to the BK2 head. I had a 00LX made for Canadian market, that did not have the BK2 head VIN plate. Was it removed, or don't build for CN market have them? IDK!

With VIN#, we can pull carfax and Toyota/Lexus history here in USA. Thus we can do, a pre purchase inspection (PPI) studying history. First thing we check is mileage against claims of seller. If mileage not as claimed, they do not make it to short list. Studying history is often only PPI we can do, where distance prohibitive for hands-on PPI. You'll find, in my Master Thread, a few links to threads on engine. Buying a vehicle or engine, without a proper PPI. You'll get burned 70% of the time. Inspect inspect inspect, which begins with studying history.

I was helping a guy just last week in mud, that purchase 06LC only looking at carfax. Somehow, carfax didn't show or just showed it was at Toyota Dealership for service. Which often carfax show in a shop, but not detail. Had buyer check VIN # at Toyota's owners web page. He'd found, that only ~30 days before he purchased. Toyota service history showed CEL. A DTC indicating cam BK 2 timing retired. Shop notes stated: " DTC Due to no oil pressure. Recommend R&R oil pump and or engine. He'd also seen a lack of OF&L. Had buyer known, how to do a proper PPI. He'd likely not bought the 06LC or at least gotten a much better price.

 

[hoser]

@2001LC AFAIK, Japan didn't get the VVTI motor in their 100 series. They had them in the JDM 200 series.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC AFAIK, Japan didn't get the VVTI motor in their 100 series. They had them in the JDM 200 series.

That if correct, further indication Japan Engine and Parts full of BS. As I was very specific asking for a 4.7L VVti.
I assume you mean 200 series 5.7L VVti. But even if 200 series in Japan, had 4.7L vvti. I've never seen a JDM 4.7L VVti or non VVti. Nor do I know of anyone that has.