Lightweight Tacoma Build

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I've been looking at bolt-on Sliders. 120lbs isn't that much, but I'm still not 100% sold on the idea.

CBI seems to be what will work best for me. I want bolt on, MINIMAL modification. Ideally no framedrilling but I don't think that's possible.
 
Trail Gear Tacoma Sliders
$269 compared to the CBI $469 bolt on's. $200 to spend on something else, I'm just sayin.....:meh: I have the Trailgear sliders on my FJ60 and they have held up well so far.
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I once feared welding parts onto my truck, now that I've modified a few trucks I realize welding is often easier and better. And completely reversible, a little work with a cut off wheel and angle grinder and you can put the frame back to stock, unlike a drilled hole.
 
much more affordable options exist. I picked this up on local classifieds. Had the tacoma and the mini truck trailer already. the shell was 400 dollars.
testing.webp
 
uglyoinker- sweet Wildernest, and good buy at $400!

Those are really rare nowadays. I always wanted one, and was prepared to pay $500-$750. I just got a sweet pop top camper myself, which has a stove.

Does that 'nest fit on the bed of your extended Tacoma? It looks a little longer maybe?
 
Nest doesn't fit Tacoma. It's a long bed nest. At first I was bummed about that but realized it serves better on a trailer platform. That way I can tow it with whatever. Or loan it to a buddy. I see you're from big sky country. I grew up 80 miles NW of Missoula. I do love the nest and glad to have it. I'm excited to outfit it for extended trips and pull it with the 55 or 60.
Jake
 

talking to me? i have a thread in the trailer section. called wildernest shell on 82 mini bed trailer. I'm not computer geek enough to post the link to it.
jake
 
Updates will be coming soon. I've come up with a more solid plan for what I want in the short term. I have a plan for using the bed space to fit the stuff that I need and keep a low profile.

I will be sleeping under the truck mostly so I don't need a topper.

I'm leaving the body damage for now. The broken out taillight still works just fine. I've purchased a new light column, but I need to either straighten out the bent section in the housing or replace that section, neither of which do I have time to do at the moment. The urban camouflage is a good thing to keep, considering I'll be working full time in Nampa soon.

I'm still trying to find more information on a very simple, effective dual battery setup. If anybody has links or info I'd be very appreciative.

I stopped by Les Schwab today to get a quote for a 5th tire. The tire runs $240 plus $20 for freight, plus $15 to install and balance it on my spare rim. That's almost $300 for one tire.
Also, the spare rim doesn't have the same styling as my 4 factory wheels, does it weight the same and have the same balance etc?
 
Yeah, my truck is 5100 empty. That's why I'm trying to keep anything I add to a minimum and thus minimise total weight :p
 
I'm still trying to find more information on a very simple, effective dual battery setup. If anybody has links or info I'd be very appreciative.
Search this forum and the electronics forum. Also there is much information on dual battery setups over at Expedition Portal.

My thoughts. Manual switch equals forgetfulness so not that great of a method. Diode based isolator needs your alternator to have a sense circuit so it can sense the battery voltage directly. Otherwise good for forgetful people. Linking a solenoid to your alternator so it closes and charges the engine battery when the engine runs works nicely, but it slows recharging of the starting battery. Also the cost is not much less than going to a battery separator. Battery separator: Many are designed to link the two batteries only after the engine starting battery has gotten up to near full charge. Often they use solenoids for doing the linking, but some use FETs of some sort. Those cost a bunch more. A solenoid based one can be had for $110ish. Waytek Wire sells one that will handle charging sources on both batteries, and link then when either battery gets over the set point voltage. It costs about $10 more than one designed for a charging from a single side. I'm looking at using the dual sided one with the alternator charging the starting battery, and solar or a second alternator charging the house battery.

A clever option is to put a second alternator where the air conditioner compressor would normally be. Use that second alternator to charge the house battery only. If you need to jump start, use jumper cables between the batteries. Both systems are totally separate except for the ground.

If the positive wire from battery to battery is long or goes from compartment to compartment, put fuses at each battery. That is because both batteries are power sources and both need short circuit interruption to keep from slagging stuff when a short develops.

Simplest wiring is likely a diode or battery separator setup. The battery separator Waytek Wire sells just needs to be placed in the wire between the two batteries, and connected to ground. The control and monitoring circuits don't need to be hooked up.

Battery separator at Waytek: Battery Separators available at Waytek, Inc.
 
Finally drew out the plan I have for the items in my bed. None of this comes above the level of the bed, so I will be able to put a cover over it to protect it from prying eyes and hands.

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For the Recovery/Ammo boxes I was thinking about using some large military ammo cans. I'll have to build a box for the H2O, I'm planning on putting plastic water jerry cans in it.
 

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