Lift for the 80

[DiscoveredLC]

I'm looking at options for a small lift for the 80 since I'll be starting my bumper builds soon. I'd like to go with the OME 2.5 medium setup, that way my truck won't be sagging from all the weight on the tired stock springs.

I plan on going with the Slee 4" kit, but I won't be able to afford that for a while. The reason why I say that is because in order to run the 4" kit, I would have to go to 315's (obviously my 33"s would look ridiculous,) and with the 315's I would need 4.88's. I just bought the 4.88's in that group buy, but I want to add ARB's at the same time when I do the gears. So basically its a snowball affect from there on, which puts me at a large amount of money for sure.

So it looks like the medium lift would be the way to go so I still have 2.5" of lift before the bumpers, but then when they are finished I'll have 1.5" of lift?

what do you guys think? I hate to spend the money on this knowing I will go to the Slee kit, but I want to fabricate my bumpers this winter.

 

[450 DUDE]

Yep OME 2.5 heavy. best bang for ur buck

 

[primer7]

I installed the OME on my 80

 

[spressomon]

Matt, just something to think about: A good friend of ours runs all the trails we do in an 80 with 33's and 2.5 lift. I have to say its a lot less work, less cost now and down the road to try to stay with 33's. Having said that I was given the same advice by Christo Slee when I asked him about going from 33's to 35's on a/my 100. And he was right: Wear is accelerated along with higher costs all the way around with 35's compared to 33's.

A 100 is an even bigger ass dragger. I tried to get everywhere I wanted to go with 33's and was dragging too much for my comfort level (and driving style ).

But the 80 is a much more versatile and a better balanced machine. Having not seen our buddy Tom go everywhere the other 80's on 35's and mine went all over Utah including the Hole in the Rock trail, et al, I would have dismissed 33's.

Just my $.02 and maybe all its worth

 

[DiscoveredLC]

hmmmmmm.... more to think about! hahaha

I wonder how pig-ish the truck would be with the stock 4.10's and all that weight? I may be mistaken, but I think the 4.88's and 315's puts you at a bit higher RPM than stock on the freeway (which would be nice for elevation and hill climbs.)

If anything, buying the 2.5" kit so I can build/add my bumpers will give me a chance to test it out and see what I think. Who knows, maybe in a year or two I might just sell the 4.88's and keep that setup. But then again jacks truck drove really nice on the freeway....



why do all my hobbies and interest have to be so expensive!

 

[locrwln1]

hmmmmmm.... more to think about! hahaha

I wonder how pig-ish the truck would be with the stock 4.10's and all that weight? I may be mistaken, but I think the 4.88's and 315's puts you at a bit higher RPM than stock on the freeway (which would be nice for elevation and hill climbs.)

If anything, buying the 2.5" kit so I can build/add my bumpers will give me a chance to test it out and see what I think. Who knows, maybe in a year or two I might just sell the 4.88's and keep that setup. But then again jacks truck drove really nice on the freeway....



why do all my hobbies and interest have to be so expensive!

As Dan said, I had less than $800 in to my 2.5 OME (mediums) on my LX with 33's. It rode and drove fantastic. 4" is a huge difference. You will be into the lift close to $3k by the time it is all said and done. It will drive and ride great, just be ready for a much more involved money/effort lift.

You are right about the 4.88's being geared higher than stock (8%). 4.56 + 35 equal stock.

Also, just so you know, the heavy front OME's are the same spring rate as the mediums, just 1" taller. Figure a set of castor correction bushings and you are pretty much done.

I too pondered which way to go, because I think you can go pretty much anywhere with an 80 on 33's as 35's, except for true rockcrawling. The problem is (in my opinion from having both) is that 33's/4.10's are cutting it close, whereas 4.88's/35's are a great combo. The problem is that transition from 33's to 35's is very big and expensive.

Good luck.

Jack

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Ok, thanks guys.

Here's the question im stuck pondering though. If I get the mediums, that will give me 2.5" of lift with no accessories. But when I add my bumpers to the truck, it will settle down to around 1.5" of lift. If I buy the heavy springs right now with no accessories, then it will be lifted 4". In that case, I would have to buy rear UCA's to correct the pinion, and possibly a new driveshaft.


So does that mean that I'm stuck with the mediums until I finish my bumpers, then I have to buy another set of heavies? I wish I could just buy one set of springs, but it doesnt seem like I'll have a choice.

Are you including the shocks when you spent the ~800 on your 450, Jack? I have the 7100's sitting in my garage, so at least I can take the shocks out of the picture.

 

[locrwln1]

I would be surprised if you loose an entire inch.

I run the 4" rear springs with adjustable UCA, but they are set at stock length, so it may or may not "have" to be done.

The $800 was with shocks. You should keep your eyes open for used ones in the classifieds.

Jack

Ok, thanks guys.

Here's the question im stuck pondering though. If I get the mediums, that will give me 2.5" of lift with no accessories. But when I add my bumpers to the truck, it will settle down to around 1.5" of lift. If I buy the heavy springs right now with no accessories, then it will be lifted 4". In that case, I would have to buy rear UCA's to correct the pinion, and possibly a new driveshaft.


So does that mean that I'm stuck with the mediums until I finish my bumpers, then I have to buy another set of heavies? I wish I could just buy one set of springs, but it doesnt seem like I'll have a choice.

Are you including the shocks when you spent the ~800 on your 450, Jack? I have the 7100's sitting in my garage, so at least I can take the shocks out of the picture.

 

[spressomon]

Well you could use spacers to compensate for the spring compression after you get it loaded/built...but I'm not a fan of them.

You should be able to find used springs...I'd go that route if you can on the first set. Then get what you need when your build is complete.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Well you could use spacers to compensate for the spring compression after you get it loaded/built...but I'm not a fan of them.

You should be able to find used springs...I'd go that route if you can on the first set. Then get what you need when your build is complete.

I found a set of OME mediums for the 100 on mud cheap, people upgrade.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

I think i'll post a wanted add and see what comes up. Do the OME's have the part #'s on them, or just have to take the sellers word for it that they are the right springs?

 

[spressomon]

No part #'s but you can narrow your risk down by getting the wire diameter and total free height. As you probably already know there is a height differential on 80-Series rear springs (technically there is a little height difference on 100-Springs but negligible in comparison); not sure about the 80-Series front springs...but I'll bet someone here knows the answer

Cruiser Outfitters

I don't know why the shift by Slee, et al, towards rhetoric like: "Medium duty" and "heavy duty" springs. The OME part # (and any other spring manufacturer too) is much more useful and descriptive to me...

 

[DiscoveredLC]

That table helps out a LOT! Thanks Dan!

 

[spressomon]

Just a point of reference that may help you: I started with OME 865 springs that provided about 2 inches of lift on the back of my 100. I had my Slee rear bumper with tire carrier mounted but no drawers at that time. They worked fine until I added the additional weight of the rear drawers and contents.

Then I went to the OME 863 rear springs that are a popular mid-height lift for the rear of 80's and 100's. These worked well for me when I had just the rear bumper and drawers. Once I loaded up with the weight of the trailer hitch (200-350lbs for the 2 different trailers) and the aux fuel tank they sagged. Then I went to the OME 864 which has served me well.

Also a couple friends that have built 80's are running a rear spring from Christo Slee (Slee Offroad) that is a progressive coil design. He doesn't list them on his website but I was very impressed with how this spring works real world. I have to asterisk this because I did run, for about 2-months, the OME 866 rears, which are a progressive rate spring, but they flat out sucked for anything off-road! But Slee's progressive rate springs are not as big a rate differential within the spring. They really work very very well and provide variable rear weight handling capability with no down sides as far as I and Andy (Cruiserdrew) and Onur (beno) can tell. I'd run these on my 100 today but they don't have quite enough spring rate for the weight of the rear of my rig.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Just a point of reference that may help you: I started with OME 865 springs that provided about 2 inches of lift on the back of my 100. I had my Slee rear bumper with tire carrier mounted but no drawers at that time. They worked fine until I added the additional weight of the rear drawers and contents.

Then I went to the OME 863 rear springs that are a popular mid-height lift for the rear of 80's and 100's. These worked well for me when I had just the rear bumper and drawers. Once I loaded up with the weight of the trailer hitch (200-350lbs for the 2 different trailers) and the aux fuel tank they sagged. Then I went to the OME 864 which has served me well.

Also a couple friends that have built 80's are running a rear spring from Christo Slee (Slee Offroad) that is a progressive coil design. He doesn't list them on his website but I was very impressed with how this spring works real world. I have to asterisk this because I did run, for about 2-months, the OME 866 rears, which are a progressive rate spring, but they flat out sucked for anything off-road! But Slee's progressive rate springs are not as big a rate differential within the spring. They really work very very well and provide variable rear weight handling capability with no down sides as far as I and Andy (Cruiserdrew) and Onur (beno) can tell. I'd run these on my 100 today but they don't have quite enough spring rate for the weight of the rear of my rig.

Like I said, people upgrade.

Seriously a lot of people start with a minimal lift then, as you plan, with an eye to a more aggressive lift in the future. IMHO you should really shop for used springs and shocks, Dan's story isn't that uncommon.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Yeah I agree. I put up a wanted post so hopefully someone will be upgrading soon.

Now to see if my 7100's will fit with the 2.5 lift.....

 

[DiscoveredLC]

As Dan said, I had less than $800 in to my 2.5 OME (mediums) on my LX with 33's.

Jack, how was the stance on your truck with the mediums? I've been searching/reading threads and there's a lot of stink bug talk with the 851/860 medium combo.

I think it's a lot of people over exaggerating how much higher the rear is, but just a little curious none the less. It seems like they're all focusing on having the truck level while driving around town, and not focusing on how it would ride all loaded up with gear on the trail (which is why we have these trucks, right!)

 

[locrwln1]

Jack, how was the stance on your truck with the mediums? I've been searching/reading threads and there's a lot of stink bug talk with the 851/860 medium combo.

I think it's a lot of people over exaggerating how much higher the rear is, but just a little curious none the less. It seems like they're all focusing on having the truck level while driving around town, and not focusing on how it would ride all loaded up with gear on the trail (which is why we have these trucks, right!)

No problem with the stance, it had a very slight rake, which like you, I prefer. I too don't understand why everyone is so against a rake on an unloaded 80.

Congrats on scoring some springs. Did someone respond to your WTB thread? How much did they end up running you?

I think you will really enjoy the mediums. They ride a little stiffer, but it is more controlled better ride. Plus they just fit an 80 with 33's.

Here is a picture of my LX on 33's/mediums (unloaded) and Ali's 4"/35's.

Jack

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Looks like a nice stance to me, I think it is a lot of people getting all worked up over nothing....

Not a single bite on the WTB thread. I looked at past threads on here from others selling springs, and it seems like they get picked up pretty quickly. I got a good deal on some new ones ($280 for all 4) and I just went for it. I like the thought of having a new fresh set, since I'll probably have them for a while. Not to mention I sold some old Rover stuff and that paid for them.

I also ordered 2* bushings from Slee, now lets hope I can get them pressed in some place!

 

[locrwln1]

Looks like a nice stance to me, I think it is a lot of people getting all worked up over nothing....

Not a single bite on the WTB thread. I looked at past threads on here from others selling springs, and it seems like they get picked up pretty quickly. I got a good deal on some new ones ($280 for all 4) and I just went for it. I like the thought of having a new fresh set, since I'll probably have them for a while. Not to mention I sold some old Rover stuff and that paid for them.

I also ordered 2* bushings from Slee, now lets hope I can get them pressed in some place!

Wow that is a good price on the new ones.

I have a press if you want to give it a try. From what I have seen, you might want to order Landtank's templates. Apparently, they make all the difference when it comes getting everything lined up properly.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/134590-cc-bushing-templates-80-series.html

Also, I have a set of stock front arms, so we could swap the bushings into those arms and then you could swap those into your truck and I will take your old arms. That keeps your down time to a minimum. Just a thought.

Jack