Let's not put lock-tight on the drive shaft bolts, shall we?

[-Spike-]

Yes Hilux, you are a dumbass. The driveshaft bolts call for loctite, and for good reason. I had my driveshaft on my 40 come OFF several times because I was too young and stupid to know what loctite was. Fortunately it always happened on the trail at low speeds. I always use blue loctite now, and use it on just about any bolt that could cause death, dismemberment, or major greivance if it comes off.

Any bets the nuts are the wrong thread? I just pulled the ones off my 80 to replace the driveshaft and noticed that the threads were junk, so I decided to replace them. Turns out the reason they were junk was they were not the right bolts. Nuts were right, bolts were a courser thread. They were even taken off once before by me, and I didn't notice at the time- I thought they just had a bunch of red loctite on them from the PO.

I'd hate to be you if the PO put the wrong nuts on the studs on the TC output. Then you'll have reason to bitch.

-Spike

 

[Rookie2]

Are you all telling me this was not a good application for using anti-seeze??

 

[Hilux]

I don't know what the stuff was, I THINK it was opaque (very off-white) in color. Maybe if it was the proper stuff, I could have gotten them off.

oh well, it's done now. Not a bad tow. I checked the ***NON Viscus Coupler*** TC, which I will be referring to from now on as the 'center diff" or "CD", at about 1/5th the way there and it was lukewarm.


again at a little over 2/3rds the way there, and it was very warm (NOT HOT) but I could hold my hand on it.


It's totaled so I really don't care about it anyway. I would say that I do not recommend this, and I think towing it 100 miles is as far as I would go. If, I absolutely had to do it again, and there was no other way.(like a repo )

Again, for search purposes: I towed a 91-92 NON VC LC on a towdolly, the DS was NOT removed and the two rear tires were rotating. Both the tranny and CD were in neutral. In my judgment, 100 miles is the limit I would do this comfortably. Stop periodically and manually check the Center Diffs temp, if it must be done this way. If you are unsure of anything and contemplating this method DO NOT DO IT...I am trained professional!!! Do not attempt this at home! The alternative in my case, would have been to have the bolts cut off by torch.

 

[Lawrence Hallman]

Well, attack of the freaking PO's AGAIN!!

I'm now STUCK at my house with a Land Cruiser on a tow dolly b/c someone though it had enough power to un-torque the bolts...NOW I CAN'T GET THEM OFF!!...NO TOW!...STUCK!!
...ON A TOW DOLLY!!


Thanks allot .


B/c you, the PO, was some redneck D.A, I now have a two day tow with what should have been only 2 hours. Thanks allot!

I put this here, MUD, b/c of the power the interwebs has. IF, I am lucky some Dain Bred redneck moron that works on Chevy's will sit down with his bag-o-fretos and Dr. Pepper and hopefully read this before shellacking the DS bolts of either his, or his customers rig.

Trust me , torquing them is fine!



Great, and I'm almost out of propane!



Have a nice day, and to the moron searching the intewebs for loc tight on DS bolts...go fishing instead!



Key Words: Lock tight, loctight, loc-tight, loctite, loc-tite, moron, hillbilly,

 

[Lawrence Hallman]

Well, I might be a DA. I am a South Georgia, Redneck (college educated with three degrees engineer), so what do I know? I have been pulling wrenches since I was 12 years old and I am 67. The question is Loctite or not? The answer is: What did you do before Loctite? Are you that lazy?

You torqued the bolt. On a drive train bolt, that means about 80 ft/lbs of torque give or take a nickel. Meaning you have to grab it and growl!

If you are scared, take the old bolts to a auto parts dealer and tell him to get you some new ones.

I just looked at my 2000 Ford Ranger uninstall/install drive shaft factory manual. Not a whisper of using some idiots Loctite crap.

I probably do not know what I am talking about. My 2000 Ford Ranger has 285,000 miles on it and I am still in the break-in period!

I cannot say that bolts do not come loose. What I can say is this, in 52 years of building the BA machines, not one drive shaft fell out. Ain't that a wonder?

If you are breaking a drive shaft bolt and you break the socket instead, you can rest assured some DA put Loctite on it, before you got to it. You will need to heat the bolt to get it off. Somewhere around 600 degrees F might do it. When you hit temp, then hit the bold with an impact driver of some sort, manual or air driven.It should break a little and a little is enough. You might have to grunt with your feet against the truck bed, but it will probably come loose.

If it does not come loose, then go to the red level and try again.

Failing that cut the GD thing out, we are talking white hot, spitting molten metal.

Failing that last resort, cut the drive shaft out of the vehicle with a oxy cutting torch and to the junk yard and buy the whole outfit.

And finally, for crying out loud, do not put that crap on your work again! After all, take some pride in your work.

A word to the wise... If you are rock climbing in the MOJAY desert and banging your drive shaft against the rocks, you might want to check it after a run. But if you are not stupid and drive normally like most folks, do not worry about it. Suppose your drive shaft falls completely out while you are on the interstate doing about 900 miles an hour. Your brakes will still work and there is the emergency lane.

Lastly, I do not claim to be an expert about anything, I just know what I know.

 

[Lawrence Hallman]

Well, I might be a DA. I am a South Georgia, Redneck (college educated with three degrees engineer), so what do I know? I have been pulling wrenches since I was 12 years old and I am 67. The question is Loctite or not? The answer is: What did you do before Loctite? Are you that lazy?

You torqued the bolt. On a drive train bolt, that means about 80 ft/lbs of torque give or take a nickel. Meaning you have to grab it and growl!

If you are scared, take the old bolts to a auto parts dealer and tell him to get you some new ones.

I just looked at my 2000 Ford Ranger uninstall/install drive shaft factory manual. Not a whisper of using some idiots Loctite crap.

I probably do not know what I am talking about. My 2000 Ford Ranger has 285,000 miles on it and I am still in the break-in period!

I cannot say that bolts do not come loose. What I can say is this, in 52 years of building the BA machines, not one drive shaft fell out. Ain't that a wonder?

If you are breaking a drive shaft bolt and you break the socket instead, you can rest assured some DA put Loctite on it, before you got to it. You will need to heat the bolt to get it off. Somewhere around 600 degrees F might do it. When you hit temp, then hit the bold with an impact driver of some sort, manual or air driven.It should break a little and a little is enough. You might have to grunt with your feet against the truck bed, but it will probably come loose.

If it does not come loose, then go to the red level and try again.

Failing that cut the GD thing out, we are talking white hot, spitting molten metal.

Failing that last resort, cut the drive shaft out of the vehicle with a oxy cutting torch and to the junk yard and buy the whole outfit.

And finally, for crying out loud, do not put that crap on your work again! After all, take some pride in your work.

A word to the wise... If you are rock climbing in the MOJAY desert and banging your drive shaft against the rocks, you might want to check it after a run. But if you are not stupid and drive normally like most folks, do not worry about it. Suppose your drive shaft falls completely out while you are on the interstate doing about 900 miles an hour. Your brakes will still work and there is the emergency lane.

Lastly, I do not claim to be an expert about anything, I just know what I know.

 

[Lawrence Hallman]

On the drive train bolt problem, you could get a longer bold that you can fit a locking nut to. That is a solution for the really paranoid.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Way to bump a 7 year old thread with your trumped up opinion of yourself.

And no.

 

[inkpot]

80 # ft would be perfect, considering the FSM specs out 64/54 for rear & front, IIRC. We put them on to spec, clean and dry. I have done 55000 in the last 2 years with over 12000 of that on trail runs. No problems, no loose bolts.