Left hand turns and interior illumination 93 fzj80 (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
62
Location
Ballston Spa, NY
Just picked up my 93 fzj80 a few weeks ago and all is well and good. Except this stupid problem. When I hit any bumps while driving, driving in high winds, and especially taking left turns in roundabouts (there's about a million where I live), the interior overhead light illuminates and the open door indicator on the dash illuminates. I know I can turn the switch off, blah blah, but after a quick search I haven't found anyone with a similar problem.

Guessing I'll find the problem on the passenger side doors, but can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,225
Location
South of Houston
Sounds like a possible broken ground wire and when you turn it makes contact briefly and illuminates the cabin. Guessing that it might be the problem.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
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1,841
Location
Golden, CO
Is your tailgate bowed? Mine is and I have to really slam the upper hatch to get it to close completely. It will catch, but not all the way. This causes the hatch to move about a half inch and constantly presses the door switch on and off. I straightened my tailgate a bit an it helped.
 
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
138
Location
1 mile high
Boring monday morning, here's my thoughts...

The 80's have issues with the door adjar switch/sensors going out. I would think if one is bad, the interior lights would not come on when that particular door is opened. Nothing happens when I open my rear two doors. Open front door or tail gate & interior lights come on. I don't care but I'd say the rear door sensors need replaced.

If the lights flicker on and off, sounds more like something isn't making good contact, or loose. Could be a wiring issue but my first guess would be one of the door sensors/switch/rubber buttons doesn't make good contact with one of the doors, as in the door doesn't push in far enough when shut to active the switch. You could tape all switches down except one, got drive over some nasty bumps or drift some round abouts, alternating differents doors & tail gate to isolate the problem until the lights come on. The untaped sensor would be your problem. If that doesn't isolate one, then I'd go for wiring. I bet you could test each sensor with an ohm meter & compare if it's not an issue with a switch being depressed all the way.

However, adjusting the door in can affect how it fits, opens and shuts. Looking at fitment before messing with the door can point you in the right direction. Toyotas have nice consistant gaps unless crashed or some hella trail damage. Ideally the gaps should be the same & consistant width front and rear to neigboring panels, for the whole length of the gap. Look at a rear door for instance. It should be flush in depth to the quarter panel and front door. Run your hand up the gap, both panels should feel level. If the door sticks out a little more in the back by the quarter, I'd say there's your problem.

Just having bought your cruiser, you may not know the history so it's good to check it out before assuming anything. I also look for evidence of paint work and bolts having marks front tools. Good signs somebody has been in there before. If so, hope for the best but be suspicious and check out their handy work. May not end up being the problem but a good starting point. Sometimes doors get opened too far the wrong way for whatever reason, large people hang on them getting in and out can make them drop, something could have be in the way when door was shut or slammed, bending something. Doors can be finicky and very tricky to adjust or repair with good fitment and not popping or dragging when opened/shut.

If attempting to adjust a door in, I first put 4 pieces of masking tape around the striker loop that the door latch locks around. Latch is at back of door, striker is in door jamb. Place tape on painted metal up against all four sides of the striker. Don't mess with loosing the hinge bolts, that's a can of worms and no good reason to adjust there if nothing has happened to the door (damaged,removed, replaced, ect).

Then loosen striker just enough so that a decent tap with a hammer moves it just a hair(not up or down, IN), tighten and retest. I'd really shoot for small, 1/8" incriments, it shouldn't take much. The tape shows you where you started, where the striker originally was. If you haven't adjusted a lot of doors, it can get out of hand quick and really create some issues. Worst case, if you can't get it, put the striker back in its original position. Door should return to original fitment with original issues and start scratching your head again.

I noticed if I didn't slam my tail gate, it would flutter & rattle sometimes. I loosened the striker & bumped it in a hair. Shuts really easy now and no slamming required. The lock has kind of a two stage lock like the doors & hood latch. I was having to slam it to get the second stage to engage. If not, the slack or slop between the two locking positions would let the gate jump around a little on bumps.

Hope it helps & good luck. If not, I killed 20 mintues atleast.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
8
I had a similar situation.. Check your right doors. Also you can test them by using foam tape(builds up contact area) where they contact the door.

:cheers:
I had the same issue on my '94. It was the Front Passenger door. Strike bolt (I think) was loose. I tightened it and no more problems.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
549
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Have a 1994 here that had the same issues.......strike bolt was loose, light would come on when turning. Kids accused me of trying to kill them !
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
914
I had the same issue on my '94. It was the Front Passenger door. Strike bolt (I think) was loose. I tightened it and no more problems.
I had the issue on drivers door in right turns. The plates had screws missing. I borrowed one from another door, tightened it with a Phillips and no problem since
 

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