Leaking OEM 40-series PS pump.....

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CruiserStuff

CruiserStuff

Joined
Oct 9, 2008
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Lake Arrowhead, CA (was), Rocky Top, TN (is)
I just did the install of my PS to my 40 - got it all hooked up, filled the reservoir and started up the truck. Instantly, I had ATF spraying all over the place. Found that the pump has a wicked leak at the pulley shaft. :mad: Here's a pic - I put a red arrow showing where the leak is....

3589647616_81ac74b437.jpg


I know the Spector site says that they don't rebuild pumps (something to do with milling a new bushing), but others (that I found through the "search" function) claim that they've replaced the seal and it has been fine. :meh:

What is everyone's experience with this? Local stealership wants $65 for the seal kit (04446-30010) and Spector wants just about the same (099-22A for $64.70). Napa, however, has the same seal kit for about $35 (includes freight and tax).

Is this something I can do myself? Do I need to get the Power Steering Manual before I attempt it? I also see that Napa offers a rebuilt pump (without the reservoir) for, like, $100 plus an $85 core charge. I don't know how long it would take to get it though.

If it were you, which route would you go? I'm itching to get the truck back on the road, so time spent is definitely a factor here.

Thanks guys! :beer:
 
D'Animal -

Well then, if you don't mind me bugging you if I get stuck, I'll attempt the rebuild myself. Should I buy the manual or is it pretty straightforward?

Hope the horse is better....I understand that neither of us have unlimited funds (unfortunately!!!).
 
CruiserStuff said:
I just did the install of my PS to my 40 - got it all hooked up, filled the reservoir and started up the truck. Instantly, I had ATF spraying all over the place. Found that the pump has a wicked leak at the pulley shaft. :mad: Here's a pic - I put a red arrow showing where the leak is....

3589647616_81ac74b437.jpg


I know the Spector site says that they don't rebuild pumps (something to do with milling a new bushing), but others (that I found through the "search" function) claim that they've replaced the seal and it has been fine. :meh:

What is everyone's experience with this? Local stealership wants $65 for the seal kit (04446-30010) and Spector wants just about the same (099-22A for $64.70). Napa, however, has the same seal kit for about $35 (includes freight and tax).

Is this something I can do myself? Do I need to get the Power Steering Manual before I attempt it? I also see that Napa offers a rebuilt pump (without the reservoir) for, like, $100 plus an $85 core charge. I don't know how long it would take to get it though.

If it were you, which route would you go? I'm itching to get the truck back on the road, so time spent is definitely a factor here.

Thanks guys! :beer:
Click to expand...

D'Animal said:
We can rebuild it when I'm there on the 12th.

It is pretty straight foward.
Click to expand...

Post up your progress and results when you have a chance. I have a leak coming from the same spot. On mine, There is also some slight play where the pulley meets the pump. Would a rebuild fix the slight play between the pulley and pump?

Thanks, and good luck.
 
D'Animal is right....bushing is wrecked (thanks for taking the time to look at it). Seems weird that Toyota wouldn't make this part. Anybody have a lead to buy or build a replacement?

car-car.....I'm pretty sure (almost certain) that the rebuild kit will NOT correct the play in the pulley shaft that you're describing. If there's play, the seal will just wear out again and you'll be back to square one.
 
Here's a (not very good) pic of the bushing. You can kinda see that it is worn on the inside down into the copper (brass?) - this was seized against the shaft....not good. You can also see (red arrow) the oiling groove (there's another on the opposite side as well).

3628656791_08a3fb9372.jpg
 
Last edited:
CruiserStuff said:
car-car.....I'm pretty sure (almost certain) that the rebuild kit will NOT correct the play in the pulley shaft that you're describing. If there's play, the seal will just wear out again and you'll be back to square one.
Click to expand...

Good point, that does make sense. Maybe I'll tear into it for the fun of it just to have a look around. I might have to look around for another pump or maybe put one of the Napa pumps on since it's about 1/5 the price of a new OEM pump. Thanks again, and good luck on yours.
 
D'Animal said that CDan quoted him a bit over $300 for a BRAND NEW FJ40 pump. I don't know how long ago that was, though.

The Napa rebuilds were about $100 plus and $80 core charge. I wonder, though, if they're addressing the bushing issue with their rebuilds or not? If they are replacing the bushing, can I buy them?

Be careful taking it apart. When you separate the housing and pull it apart, there are about a million (actually, there are 24) springs that will want to pop out and seek the dark, unreachable areas in your garage (ask me how I know).

I'll post up some pics later to help you avoid that......
 
Okay, sports fans, so to take the pump apart (and keep all the pieces on the workbench), here's what I learned:

Take the pump out of the truck and remove the pulley and reservoir. Then, take out the 5 remaining bolts that hold the pump housing together.

3629905659_3b12caef65.jpg


When you pull the two housing sections apart, be VERY careful. When you see this plate....

3630741222_6e6ffe02ee.jpg


....hold it down while you remove the top part of the housing. Otherwise, you'll release all the fun springs (24 in all) that hold the wipers in place on the shaft as it rotates....

3629936461_b86ac3921f.jpg


The back half of the wipers are A, with the four holes. The four springs (B) sit in the four holes and then are topped with the wipers (C). These sit in the pump body (with the side of the wiper with the "cut-out" along the counter clockwise edge). You can kinda see what I'm talking about here:

3629949541_ebe7cb18cc.jpg


Though the springs aren't loaded, you can see how the back plate and the wiper fit in the body with the "cut-out" side of the wiper on the right side (of the pic).

Then, you can remove the nut off of the high-pressure port and the snap-ring on the other end of the cylinder and pull these parts out:

3629958747_8fb27975e5.jpg


The seal around the shaft was visibly damaged - there was no way that thing was gonna NOT leak.

D'Animal drove out the bushing....this isn't a very good picture, but you can see that it has worn down to the copper (or is it brass?) core. You can also see one of the two oil grooves in the bushing.

3628656791_08a3fb9372.jpg


I really need to find someone who can source these bushings - either to buy or make. Seems like there are several others who could use them too.......

That's where I am so far.....I'll keep you posted......
 
I am in the process of trying to save myself some money as well. I machined a bushing on my lathe, and installed it. I thought it was definately tight as it was difficult to spin the pulley. started it up the belt was squeeling so I tightened it up. ran about ten seconds, then blew the hell out of the seal. Tried a new seal and it got pushed out as well.. I guess I will tear it down again and order another seal. see what happened. I most likely have to manufacture another bushing.
 
toomanymachines said:
I am in the process of trying to save myself some money as well. I machined a bushing on my lathe, and installed it. I thought it was definately tight as it was difficult to spin the pulley. started it up the belt was squeeling so I tightened it up. ran about ten seconds, then blew the hell out of the seal. Tried a new seal and it got pushed out as well.. I guess I will tear it down again and order another seal. see what happened. I most likely have to manufacture another bushing.
Click to expand...

Did you RECHECK the I.D. of the bushing after you installed it? That has been the bane of every rebuilder that has tackled this, from what I've heard.

Mark A.
 
well I win at least so far. that is what happened on my first failed attempt. My bushing was about 0.008 too large on the inside diameter. the outside was about o.o14" too large My first attempt I made difference about 0.010 larger on the outside knowing that it would compress in the housing. It worked for about 15 seconds and smoked it spun and turn the outsdie down.

today I did it again but made the bushing about 0.008 too large on the exterior. knowing that in theory It should give me about 0.002 clearence. but I guess that when is compresses it is a little tighter than what I expected.. anyways it had to emory it with some very fine cloth, and presto the end plate slid very nicly into place. Installed a new seal with lotsa grease. put everything together filled with oil and tightened the belt just enough I would assume a too tight belt will lead to faster wear. I started it and shut it off right away.. no problems started it agian and checked for leaks and filled the reservoir. I have a little problem with some belt slippage but everything is still oily. I need to set up my pressure washer. I did use a lathe to modify my bushing. but I am sure anyone could set up something on a drill press I only took about0.012 in total just usinng emory cloth. 7/8 by 1 inch bushing that cost me about 2.50 the seal was about 4.50 a far better cry than $240 for a rebuilt pump that only lasts two years.
 
CruiserStuff said:
...
I really need to find someone who can source these bushings - either to buy or make. Seems like there are several others who could use them too.......

That's where I am so far.....I'll keep you posted......
Click to expand...

That looks like about a billion small end rod bushings that I have pressed in? A Honda, Subaru, VW, etc, bushing maybe close enough to use? Having a custom sized reamer made isn't that expensive. That would make doing it easy, find a bushing with the proper OD, press it and run the reamer through.
 
put about 20 or so miles on my truck on some rather nasty roads. (lotsa frost boils) still fine. I do not know how the bronze bushing will hold up to the test of time. but I am feeling confident.
 
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