Leaking Front CV boots, also new axle? (1 Viewer)

[carolynk]

We have 84k miles on our 2006 LC. The dealer says the front CV boots are leaking (I can see grease all over the axles), axle looks good.
Local shop says axles are so cheap now, that we should also replace them too (since there MAY be damage). We don't do any off-road driving, if that matters.

 

[YotaWagon]

Personally I'd ride them and keep an eye on them as long as it's just slow seepage. If they're puking/slinging grease or otherwise showing issues such as clicking/noise etc. then it's time for sure.

Axles are relatively cheap. When I did mine, I had over 200k, but changing axles and hub flanges at the same time gets everything nice and tight again and reduces any slop between the two. Rebooting is pretty time intensive/costly on it's own which is why people choose to slap new axles in there. Most people will recommend only OEM new parts on axles.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Depending on how much they're leaking you can choose a few different things. If it's leaking past the band clamps, you can look at reclamping them, searing on here for a screw type of hose clamp to use. If the boot is torn, again depending on how long the inner joint's been exposed, you can just reboot them, kits are available from Cruiser Outfitters.

Yes, aftermarket CV's are cheap, but numerous comments here about the boots not last long or the joint wearing quickly. It's one of those things that's worth buying OEM new for the cost and time of the job vs. doing it again because of you saved a couple bucks on a part.

 

[Pucker5]

No to new aftermarket cv’s! had a torn boot on relatively new oem cv’s, Mechanic said the same thing and had nothing but problems with the aftermarket’s. Seal leak going into differential , etc. Reboot if boot is torn, smooth McMaster carr clamps if it’s not but make sure you get them in the boot Groove and don’t overstretch the boot on initial tightening.

 

[iwashmycar]

If dealer can get the OEM Reman axles, they seem fine. I just replaced an aftermarket CV with one in my FJC. The Duralast (or whatever aftermarket) junk only lasted maybe 15k miles. Pitiful. Also did not articulate all the way like the OEM ones seem to.

Rebooting them since they have such low mileage is also a worthwhile course. Super easy but messy.

If they are just seeping a little and kind of wet that can be ok for a while...if they are slinging anything off, then its time to take action.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

Just replaced a drives side CV while on a trip because it was slinging grease everywhere. I only could get a Napa axle due to time constraints and being 1600 miles from home. It works but im pretty sure I have a vibration due to the aftermarket axle now. Going to get tires re balanced but I have a strong feeling its the Napa axle.

I will likely replace it with an OEM unit in the near future.

 

[Les Summer]

If you are only in the early stages of your boots leaking like mine were, I recommend using these clamps, which you can get 2 in a kit (1 big 1 small) for around 8 dollars each from cruisergarage.com
I felt there was no need to remove my old clamp and risk damaging the boot. These high quality worm gear clamps fit perfectly overtop of the old clamps. I tightened them down overtop pretty darn good, and the boot is no longer leaking or moving whatsoever. Plus you get a cool decal with the purchase of each clamp kit. The edges of the clamps are specially smooth and rounded, so they are made to not dig into your boot.