Leaf Sliders

[GLTHFJ60]

Cody, good idea on distributing the weight better, but I think the sharp edges would be stress points for the plastic as well. Better to make the edges rounded, right?

I fully plan to run some of the LI sliders once the funds become available.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

um. ok. get back as my brain is farting. I think I'm having an idea. stand by. will advise. please feel free to move this if it is not apparent that it is pertinent to this thread.

 

[Wilson]

Check with a local counter top company for uhmw drops.

 

[cody c]

um. ok. get back as my brain is farting. I think I'm having an idea. stand by. will advise. please feel free to move this if it is not apparent that it is pertinent to this thread.

Lets see it, come on get it out!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

instead of having classic bolt washer nut going thru an open slot, how about a pin that rides in the spring eye bushings that is held captive by bolt in place closed slider pockets??? i know, i'll go home now.

 

[cody c]

instead of having classic bolt washer nut going thru an open slot, how about a pin that rides in the spring eye bushings that is held captive by bolt in place closed slider pockets??? i know, i'll go home now.

not getting ya,

 

[cody c]

So, anyone got some plastic they want to donate?

I'm gonna send a properly CAD'd drawing off for quotes in the new year I think.

 

[SNLC]

I don't know if it was already mentioned, I didn't read the whole thread but...

Volvo C303 & TGBs have factory leaf sliders. Just google Volvo C303 to see what I mean.

 

[Wilson]

Cody, that looks like something that would get smashed and bent if I were to run it. What is the height of your slider box, looks around 6" if your rendering is to scale. I'm already concerned about my LII slider box and it's about 4"

 

[cody c]

Cody, that looks like something that would get smashed and bent if I were to run it. What is the height of your slider box, looks around 6" if your rendering is to scale. I'm already concerned about my LII slider box and it's about 4"

Might have to run more plate on it, either along the front as a ramp to tie in the two sides, or double up on the sides.

 

[Wilson]

If anyone is interested, I would like to sell the chassis and see this thing on the trail some day. I'd like to sell the frame, as it sits with the trimmed tub, stock rear section, air bumps, sliders and front deavers. I will include a current registered title (1970), in my name and VIN tags for seamless paperwork. I can include a hood and windshield frame with glass, wiper motor. Asking $1200. Here's how she sits tonight:

Asking $1200 and can deliver as far south as San Diego next weekend (21st)

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If anyone is interested, I would like to sell the chassis and see this thing on the trail some day. I'd like to sell the frame, as it sits with the trimmed tub, stock rear section, air bumps, sliders and front deavers. I will include a current registered title (1970), in my name and VIN tags for seamless paperwork. I can include a hood and windshield frame with glass, wiper motor. Asking $1200. Here's how she sits tonight:

Asking $1200 and can deliver as far south as San Diego next weekend (21st)

Why are you selling?

 

[slickrock]

I'm thinking of installing the sliders in place of my front shackles. I need to lower my front end a bit and have been going through bushing. my front hangers are a hair off center and I need to reinstall either new hangers to fix the geometry or try the hangers. Would anyone like to go into an explanation of how theirs work when installed in front?

One question, when the rig is on a flat surface and your installing the sliders, would you want the leaf eye to be in the center of the slider's line of travel or do they work better when placed differently?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm thinking of installing the sliders in place of my front shackles. I need to lower my front end a bit and have been going through bushing. my front hangers are a hair off center and I need to reinstall either new hangers to fix the geometry or try the hangers. Would anyone like to go into an explanation of how theirs work when installed in front?

One question, when the rig is on a flat surface and your installing the sliders, would you want the leaf eye to be in the center of the slider's line of travel or do they work better when placed differently?

In terms of how the slider should be set up when sitting on flat ground, I think it depends on how flat your springs are. For example, if your springs are perfectly flat when sitting on the ground, then you'd need to arrange the slider so the pin is near the top ( or forward if you're thinking of it like that ) of the slider travel. This is because the spring cannot extend any farther further because it is already flat. However, when flexed downward, the effective length of the spring when measured between the eyes will decrease, moving the pin towards the fixed mount.

Clear as mud?

 

[slickrock]

yeah. I'll have to wait till I get them and post up for suggestions before I tack them in place.

 

[zembalayan]

yeah. I'll have to wait till I get them and post up for suggestions before I tack them in place.

\One question, when the rig is on a flat surface and your installing the sliders, would you want the leaf eye to be in the center of the slider's line of travel or do they work better when placed differently?

I think that you are going to want to place the slider box in a position where your springs do not run out of sliding space at either end of the slide whether it be at full spring compression or at maximum expected droop. No one knows how much arch your springs have or what suspension goals you have specifically--maybe your springs are so flat that you won't need much room for the slider on its compression stroke, and you are going for good amount of droop on a teeth shattering, bottomed-out Toy lowrider (and the box sliders enhance this all the more), or maybe you have heavily arched springs, and you want a lot of up travel, or maybe you want a very balanced leaf-sprung suspension that works really well, and you want to minimize ride height and COG with the slider boxes. I'be curious to know what you wanted your cruiser to do in the end.


I think that using high quality custom springs from Deaver, as Wilson did, will work best for this concept, and if you're gonna do this, go full tilt and get right the fiirst time. Also, you could order up a reverse-eye set of springs, which keeps you still a smidge lower without reducing spring arch-- you just gotta nake sure that the upper ceiling of the slider boxes you will fab/use do not interfere with such a spring eye.


From what I have read elsewhere, anyone doing this would be hard-pressed to use anywhere close to the entire slide length on the slider boxes, such as those made by Timmay at LLI, even while getting great overall wheel travel lengths. That being said, I think that you probably should install a set of bump stops, and depending on what you can get for droop, maybe even some limit straps if necessary.


The nice thing about running the sliders up front (below the radiator) is that you will not be stressing out your Driveshaft/U-Joint/pinion angle on full drop like you would do with shackles mounted rearward under the cab. You can also run a traction bar possibly that generally mirrors the arc and mounting locations of your leaf springs.


I would definitely think through carefully your set up and spring choice beforehand. Good luck!

 

[gothodgie]

I'm really thinking about putting these on the back of my 60... They would get the back end lowered a little bit which i need and hopefully add a little more flex...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm really thinking about putting these on the back of my 60... They would get the back end lowered a little bit which i need and hopefully add a little more flex...

Do it!

 

[slickrock]

I think that you are going to want to place the slider box in a position where your springs do not run out of sliding space at either end of the slide whether it be at full spring compression or at maximum expected droop. No one knows how much arch your springs have or what suspension goals you have specifically--maybe your springs are so flat that you won't need much room for the slider on its compression stroke, and you are going for good amount of droop on a teeth shattering, bottomed-out Toy lowrider (and the box sliders enhance this all the more), or maybe you have heavily arched springs, and you want a lot of up travel, or maybe you want a very balanced leaf-sprung suspension that works really well, and you want to minimize ride height and COG with the slider boxes. I'be curious to know what you wanted your cruiser to do in the end.


I think that using high quality custom springs from Deaver, as Wilson did, will work best for this concept, and if you're gonna do this, go full tilt and get right the fiirst time. Also, you could order up a reverse-eye set of springs, which keeps you still a smidge lower without reducing spring arch-- you just gotta nake sure that the upper ceiling of the slider boxes you will fab/use do not interfere with such a spring eye.


From what I have read elsewhere, anyone doing this would be hard-pressed to use anywhere close to the entire slide length on the slider boxes, such as those made by Timmay at LLI, even while getting great overall wheel travel lengths. That being said, I think that you probably should install a set of bump stops, and depending on what you can get for droop, maybe even some limit straps if necessary.


The nice thing about running the sliders up front (below the radiator) is that you will not be stressing out your Driveshaft/U-Joint/pinion angle on full drop like you would do with shackles mounted rearward under the cab. You can also run a traction bar possibly that generally mirrors the arc and mounting locations of your leaf springs.


I would definitely think through carefully your set up and spring choice beforehand. Good luck!

I'm running stock flat 40 springs (outboarded for a 60 series front axle). My bump-stops are about an inch above the springs. The amount of up travel still stuffs the tires but gives me a lot of droop. Pic shows a bit of travel. I'll have to cycle the suspension with the sliders to find the best location. From what I read, they will need to be a bit forward since I have more down travel than up and the goal is to get a bit of a lower center of gravity. The primary reason is so I can keep 37s on and still fit in my garage with a hardtop (not to mention the off-road improvement with stability...I can just squeeze in with 35s now and I want to keep the bigger tires on all year besides when my top is off.

My concern is that my travel is fairly balanced between the front and rear and I would like to maintain that. If I have positive results with the front sliders, I may do them in the rear too. I do enjoy driving my rig as much as possible so road manners and off-road manners will play a huge part if these stay or go. I also need to take into consideration any adjustments to my drivelines. It starts to add up in hours and money.

 

[I Tried]

If anyone is interested, I would like to sell the chassis and see this thing on the trail some day. I'd like to sell the frame, as it sits with the trimmed tub, stock rear section, air bumps, sliders and front deavers. I will include a current registered title (1970), in my name and VIN tags for seamless paperwork. I can include a hood and windshield frame with glass, wiper motor. Asking $1200. Here's how she sits tonight:

Asking $1200 and can deliver as far south as San Diego next weekend (21st)

How much to ship to MN and is it set up for stock axles and spring widths?

Can you email more pictures?