LC200 Rear (Interior) Exit Switch Mod (2 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

What year is your LC200? the 2016 from your profile? I ask because there are some differences from 2018 onward for the auto close hatch. TIA

Yes, you are correct. It is a '16 with the manual close hatch.

I'll have to look at the EWD for the auto opening hatch wiring, but I have to imagine that the switch on the upper tailgate triggers the auto open mechanism.

If so, I doubt there is any special sauce, it is likely just a normally open circuit with a momentary switch that can be simulated by any other way of bridging the leads. That is all the old version did.

I made mine with the hatch switch from some other Toyota, a prius or something - it is just a normally open momentary switch with an appropriate icon.

 

[xtern0]

PLUG AND PINOUT PART NUMBERS:

1. SWITCH: OE Toyota Connector: 90980-11013 Housing, Connector F (this is the black plastic connector I am holding in my hand in the previous posted photo)
2. SWITCH: OE Toyota Connector, Inline Receiving Connector Male: 90980-11012 Housing, Connector M
3. LP LIGHT: OE Toyota Connector, 90980-11156 Housing, Connector F
4. LP LIGHT: OE Toyota Connector, Inline Receiving Connector Male: 90980-11155 Housing, Connector M
5. OE Toyota Pin-outs (4 per connector): 160mm* = 82998-24380, 500mm* = 82998-74050 (These P/Ns I'm not 100% sure on yet, still researching), also: These are "repair" items, they have a wire already attached to make repairs quicker. This is not what I need. I need just the raw metal pin-out terminals that will allow me to crimp/solder my own wiring in.
6. OE Toyota Raw Pinout Terminals: 82998-12340 F (Female Terminal) and 82998-12330 M (Male Terminal). Since I'm building a custom harness, this is what I need.

*mm appears to apply to the length of the attached wire included with the "repair" pin-out.

Toyota does not list a stand-alone female receiving connector anywhere on the vehicle microfiche or the technical microfiche, they may possibly wire them into the main wiring harnesses, but the dealer stated they probably just don't use any inline female connectors of this type as a separate part on the truck. However, after stumbling around on some japanese language websites and this post: 2nd gen tacoma blue connector in dash - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-tacoma-blue-connector-in-dash.640457/page-2 ...I discovered the part number for the female receiving in-line connector: Toyota 90980-11012.

View attachment 3258233

X

Some of the part numbers may not be correct, unfortunately, its been too long for me to edit this.

 

[M77]

I have 2 questions which I hope to get help:
1. If I intend to install a Cruiser Outfitters' switch, can the wires be modified to install the button at another location?
2. Does any one know of any mechanical way to open the rear hatch? As I experienced the inconvenience of not being able to open the rear hatch door without electricity supply.

 

[xtern0]

I have 2 questions which I hope to get help:
1. If I intend to install a Cruiser Outfitters' switch, can the wires be modified to install the button at another location?
2. Does any one know of any mechanical way to open the rear hatch? As I experienced the inconvenience of not being able to open the rear hatch door without electricity supply.

I've spent a bit of time with this particular install...

1. Of course. For a different location (assuming the same splice locations) should only require some additional lengths of wire and some experience with butt-splicing wires to provide more wire length; and

2. Yes. Look in your Owner's Manual under Section 3.2 - Opening, closing, and locking the doors:

 

[M77]

I've spent a bit of time with this particular install...

1. Of course. For a different location (assuming the same splice locations) should only require some additional lengths of wire and some experience with butt-splicing wires to provide more wire length; and

2. Yes. Look in your Owner's Manual under Section 3.2 - Opening, closing, and locking the doors:

View attachment 3647208
View attachment 3647209

Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

Thanks for the diagram too! As I bought my LC200 2nd hand (5th owner), I did not receive any owner's manual.

 

[golfer2000]

I bought the momentary switch on Amazon. I like the design because the actual button is flush with its surround, so it’s less likely to be accidentally bumped. It’s fairly small too. $7.25 each on Amazon.com


6. The exterior hatch switch has three wires. A blue, a white/black, and another blue. There are actually two buttons on that exterior switch. The two you want to play with are the white/black in the middle, and the blue on the right if you were looking at the switch from the back. When these two connect, it activates the opener.

Would this be a normally open or normally closed momentary switch? Also, is the oem button always illuminated or do you have to have the lights on? Thanks!

 

[golfer2000]

I couldnt afford the $200 kit but luckily I had a spare handle laying around and I scored a $15 Eaton NSB C22-D-S-K11 Pushbutton, so I cobbled it all together.

 

[OregonLC]

Question: Is this switch still enabled when the alarm is active? I ask because an advantageous security feature for those with drawers is that without the rear door opening the drawers are secured by the tailgate. Even if the rear glass were broken, there would be no way to get the tailgate down... unless that switch was hot.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Question: Is this switch still enabled when the alarm is active? I ask because an advantageous security feature for those with drawers is that without the rear door opening the drawers are secured by the tailgate. Even if the rear glass were broken, there would be no way to get the tailgate down... unless that switch was hot.

I just installed this a few weeks ago and didn’t think of this until I saw your post.

Just went outside, climbed into truck, locked the doors via fob and the button did NOT operate or release the latch.

I unlocked the doors with the fob from inside, touched the button, and it worked.

Hopes this answer your question, which was a good one and important, for reasons your stated.

NOTE: This is on a 2010 LC. Not sure if other years are different. I’ve heard some folks saying they can’t lock their doors via the fob when it’s inside the truck, but mine definitely does, so unsure if it’s certain year specific.

 

[OregonLC]

Thanks @Boston Mangler. Anyone with a 16+ LX who can confirm the same?

 

[Boston Mangler]

Thanks @Boston Mangler. Anyone with a 16+ LX who can confirm the same?

Not sure if 16+ LX have switch in the same location as the later LCs that had factory electric hatch, but the switch is in a different spot and it’s not accessible from inside the truck.

It’s on the bottom of lift gate. A little odd.

So even If scumbag smashed back window, they can’t access switch.

2016 LC button location:

 

[TeCKis300]

Question: Is this switch still enabled when the alarm is active? I ask because an advantageous security feature for those with drawers is that without the rear door opening the drawers are secured by the tailgate. Even if the rear glass were broken, there would be no way to get the tailgate down... unless that switch was hot.

On the LX, and I assume later model year LCs with motorized hatch...

- Hatch release button at the drivers seat does not work and will respond with a denied, double beep
- I use the keyfob when car camping in the rear and obviously that does open the hatch even when armed