LC200 LX570 brake rotor replacement time - go OEM, tundra, or aftermarket?

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there are two screw holes in the rotor. If you google you can find the bolt size. You run bolts through those two holes and it pushed the rotor off so you can remove
What Romer said should do the trick...
 
so, I bought everything. OEM front and rear rotors, OEM front and rear pads for $377 shipped. After I clicked on the buy button, I realized I really don't need to replace the rear rotors. too bad, because shipping them back will defeat the purpose of a good deal.

Great choice. For the price of the components, replacement of the rotors is the way to go. One can never go wrong with OEM parts.
 
BTW if those threads are buggered up you can take one of your caliper bolts in, buy a longer one and do it from the back side. Don't recall the length but get the longest you can find as the purpose is to just push the rotor. Try the front bolts first as that is the way you are supposed to do it.
 
my 2013 LX 570 came with big brakes from Stoptech. Are these the same as the TRD big brake kit? they look the same maybe just white labeled TRD
 
DBA T3 Rotors and QFM A1RM pads rated at 800c

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I finally need to do brakes, made it 120k miles but hot brakes and cold mud did mine in.

I’ll replace with OEM pads and disks, but I’ll cryo freeze the disks as I’ve found that has helped me with the whole hot disks meeting cold water and warping a tiny bit issues. At least it helped on lighter Toyota’s, we’ll see.
 
my 2013 LX 570 came with big brakes from Stoptech. Are these the same as the TRD big brake kit? they look the same maybe just white labeled TRD

One of the other members did the research, but IIRC, he confirmed the StopTech Street Sport pads are what is rebranded as the TRD Pads. The rotors may be a different story.

Here's the thread.
 
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@Taco2Cruiser fwiw I just went with the StopTech truck kit (I'm at 90k), which is slotted rotors that are cryo'ed by ST and Centric fleet pads. It's not a BBK but definitely an improvement over the factory setup. @mrtmotorsports had the best price around
 
I finally need to do brakes, made it 120k miles but hot brakes and cold mud did mine in.

I’ll replace with OEM pads and disks, but I’ll cryo freeze the disks as I’ve found that has helped me with the whole hot disks meeting cold water and warping a tiny bit issues. At least it helped on lighter Toyota’s, we’ll see.

My $0.02 — I just did fluid exchange + Centric rotors + Hawk LTS pads on my 570. Brake pedal feel is still meh but bite is great.
 
My $0.02 — I just did fluid exchange + Centric rotors + Hawk LTS pads on my 570. Brake pedal feel is still meh but bite is great.
I would agree with that assessment, and I did rotors, pads, and fluid. Initial pedal feel is still soft but as the pads bite they feel firmer. I have not tried to measure stopping distance but I expect improvement over my old ceramic pads; however those were at the end of their life so it's only really fair to compare to new Toyota pads and rotors.

Note that either StopTech or Centric had a note in one of the boxes saying that bedding in wasn't necessary, but I did it anyway. The discs were blue-ish when finished and the braking feel (effort vs distance) seems much improved over the initial application when coming out of the shop. They might have bedded themselves just fine after a few days anyway but definitely don't compare until you've either bedded them in or run them a few hundred miles
 
Does anyone know what the DOT code for the TRD pads are? Are they GG? Or something lower? I know the Akebono Performance pads are GG, trying to find out what the TRD pads are.
 
Does anyone know what the DOT code for the TRD pads are? Are they GG? Or something lower? I know the Akebono Performance pads are GG, trying to find out what the TRD pads are.

TRD pads are GF.

HTH
 
Thanks. I think that helps. If Akebono Perf are GG, that seems like it would be slightly better (same initial bite, better fade resistance) - but I'm not an expert.....
 
Pad options. My fleet experience with heavy vehicles showed Performance Friction, Delco ceramic and the Motorcraft severe duty line to be at the top of what you can commonly find out there. I used these on 11,000 pound E-350's with great life and performance. I have not had to do brakes on my Land Cruiser yet.
 
My $0.02 — I just did fluid exchange + Centric rotors + Hawk LTS pads on my 570. Brake pedal feel is still meh but bite is great.
I had, and pulled off Hawk LTS a couple years ago as I didn’t see any real improvement combined with more dust.

I’ve had plenty of those slotted rotors and just feel that Toyota can make a better disk than (most) of the aftermarket. That’s me though.

But... once I took apart my master cylinder and did some things to it and switched all my lines to steel braided, that’s where I got that firm feeling that helps me balance on rocks.

So for me, stock brakes are tough to beat for how I drive. Combined with low dust, I hate dust.

And they are cheap, I’m trying to save as much money for fuel and time off to go use my 200.
 
But... once I took apart my master cylinder and did some things to it and switched all my lines to steel braided, that’s where I got that firm feeling that helps me balance on rocks.

What did you do to your master cylinder? Did you upgrade the lines at the same time? Which one do you think contributed the most to firming up the feel of the brakes?
 
When I went to TRD pads and DBA slotted rotors I also went w/stainless lines. The pads definitely have more bite, but do produce a fair amount of dust (which I’m not a fan of but willing to accept in this trade off). The lines improved the feel for sure, but I would love more. I too am interested in any master cylinder trickery that might aid in this area...
 
Quick follow-up. I went with: Akebono perf pads (GG front and rear). Castrol DOT 4 and factory rotors. Full flush of fluid (used 3 qts).

The pads that came off are Toyota (stock pads?). FG front and FF rear. So, seems like the Akebono should perform better. Still need to bed them but at this point, the pedal feel is better - shorter travel and takes more effort to push the pedal. Not sure what was wrong w/ the old fluid (as it seemed relatively clear and light).

I'll test braking and fade resistance in about 100 miles.

Side question: The wheel locks were stripped. Shop replaced with factory lugs. I'm not sure I'm going to get locking lugs. But if I do, the ones that came off had a captured washer. What's the washer for? Do factory lugs have washers? Or just the wheel lock? Is the washer critical?
 
@kreiten I can't get the rotor off mine. Do you have to take that round cap at the center of the rotor off before you can remove the rotor itself? I have it all apart but I can't get the rotor off.

I have never done brakes on a LC/LX, but i use a gear puller when i did my rotors and pads on the 330ci. After about 5 hours of trying to pound and pull on the rotors and giving up, my dad suggested and lent me his gear puller. It got it off in 30 seconds. I always go to that first now unless i am trying to salvage the rotors, because the gear puller will get it out but not always in one piece.
 

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