Late Model 100 Series Annual Spend?

[87warrior]

@dwh13 That is quite a spread! Nice detail. But I don't think it is quite an honest assessment of the required maintenance on a 100 since things like tires, wipers, grill, floor mats, key fob accessories are not necessarily a required maintenance item specific to the vehicle.

“5 New Cooper Discoverer AT3’s installed”...
How do you like those tires ?

Just replaced a set of those I put 55k miles on. Good tires. I did have a problem picking up nails/screws with them though.

 

[bigandtall]

I purchased my 2001 LC in 2007 with 93k miles, now I'm at 180k miles. Repairs and maintenance has averaged $800 per year over that time. I do the really easy things - fluid changes, etc, everything else goes to my indy mechanic. That surprised me when I pulled up the numbers, I thought it would be less. Still no complaints though, I love driving this truck and hope to keep it well into the future.

EDIT: Removed some items were not really R&M.

Please PM me with your Indy mechanic's contact information. I'm new to all this and really need a good knowledgeable mechanic in the Indianapolis area to work on my LC.

 

[chrisratz]

Please PM me with your Indy mechanic's contact information. I'm new to all this and really need a good knowledgeable mechanic in the Indianapolis area to work on my LC.

I was a little confused why a guy in Indianapolis wants to use a mechanic in Fresno CA but then I got it. Indy= independent not Indianapolis. Haha

 

[blatant]

^^^ wow.

 

[BullElk]

Really? Care to elaborate on both of those statements?

"I am covinced a low mileage LC/LX has more repair issues than the Cruiser machines that are driven on a daily basis.."

Most any machine that sits and doesn't move as it was designed tends to corrode, oxidizes, not stay smooth and perhaps the fluids that are in them....more than a machine that runs.

"That is why low mileage LC/LXs are overrated and expensive."

The LX/LC prices, like most vehicles, are directly affected by the odometer. The lower the miles, the higher the price....expensive. However, UNLIKE other vehicles, LX/LCs are made of such good quality that even the higher mile 10 year old cruisers can and usually do give ridiculously good service with a much lower price tag....much less expensive. And lots of times the higher mileage cruisers will already have expensive dealership maintenance items taken care of and less for the new owner. Making the higher mileage cruisers underrrated and the low mileage high price tag overrated. Win win for used Cruiser buyers.

 

[dwh13]

@dwh13 That is quite a spread! Nice detail. But I don't think it is quite an honest assessment of the required maintenance on a 100 since things like tires, wipers, grill, floor mats, key fob accessories are not necessarily a required maintenance item specific to the vehicle. /Quote]

You're right, I've done a lot of extra stuff not 100% required. Just thought I'd add my .02

 

[whitenoise]

Most any machine that sits and doesn't move as it was designed tends to corrode, oxidizes, not stay smooth and perhaps the fluids that are in them....more than a machine that runs.

However, UNLIKE other vehicles, LX/LCs are made of such good quality that even the higher mile 10 year old cruisers can and usually do give ridiculously good service with a much lower price tag....much less expensive. And lots of times the higher mileage cruisers will already have expensive dealership maintenance items taken care of and less for the new owner. Making the higher mileage cruisers underrrated and the low mileage high price tag overrated. Win win for used Cruiser buyers.

I would tend to agree to a certain extent about mileage being over-rated, but (1) that's true of many Japanese cars and older (pre-2000) German cars and (2) that's not how the market values used vehicles.

The threshold is a bit higher for the cruiser, it's almost never worth buying a 3 or 4 year old one like most other used cars. However, if stored properly, there should be no real degradation and in some cases it even preserves the vehicle for longer - like in my case for example, I don't drive mine after they start salting the roads for winter. This will let me keep it for several more years until the depreciation is spread over a much longer time period, and lets me supplement it with something small and fun-to-drive that's also cheap to insure and run.

 

[Kofoed]

It really depends on the level of performance yo want. Do you mind the vehicle wandering down the road with shimmy in teh steering wheel?

I bought a ride at 138k miles. OEM everything. Springs sagged, some other neglected issues. It was really a decent vehicle. Then I started upgrading tires and suspension and found some weak links and decided to due PM and replace wheel bearings, rotors, bushings, etc. Drives MUCH better down the road. The bigger tires really made worn suspension components more noticeable.

 

[2001LC]

I suppose it worth mention, as this may not be obvious to all. The region any vehicle is driven in can greatly influence maintenance cost in the long run. Number one example is if in the rust belt (area of country pron to heavy rusting).

 

[guerasfj60]

The vast majority of the money I've chosen to spend on the truck is the cause of the money I've had to spend on the truck.

This

 

[djgonzo007]

December 2017 (purchased 12/9/17) with 260,403 miles:

• Replaced hood struts ($20)
• Replaced rear liftgate struts ($20)

Total cost for December: $396

Where did you get the hood and lift gate struts? My hood struts need to be replaced, but toyota dealer quoted me like $80 a piece.

 

[hickuptruck]

Where did you get the hood and lift gate struts? My hood struts need to be replaced, but toyota dealer quoted me like $80 a piece.

Amazon. They aren't OEM tho but they fit fine.

 

[saucebox]

Where did you get the hood and lift gate struts? My hood struts need to be replaced, but toyota dealer quoted me like $80 a piece.

You can get the OEMs for a helluva lot less than any of the local dealers. Find the part numbers, just Google from there. I think I paid $28 each from McGeorge (for the rear hatch). Still not as cheap as Amazon, but...OEM. For a few bucks extra, I don't have to guess if these will last a long time.

You don't post a MY, but for an '03, the rears are 68960-69017 and 68950-69057. Can't imagine they'd differ between years, but on most part sites you can enter your VIN to check that the numbers are correct.

Edit: I was curious. Looked up the hood struts at McGeorge...again for an '03, they're $83 each (53440-69026 and 53450-69026). So...Amazon's looking lots better now