Landcruiser

[LandCruiserPhil]

.
Retard here.

Damn! This reminds me of the accelleration war here in AZ. I had several AZ folks claim their TRD 80 could hang with a 100 in the speed dept. They swore I was full of it. So finally one day we did it.

We ran my 100, mis-geared by 35's so it had a 12% disadvantage.
We ran a equally equipped 80 with TRD S/C, 35's, AND 4.88 gears (10% gearing advantage for a 22% ratio total).

Winner at every speed we did? I won't even say because the disbelievers will get out the baseball bat and name calling again.

He just let you win so you didnt have to regear

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

x2 on getting .We live in the desert, Deal withthe heat. Better vision for picking lines when wheeling. Never have to worry about going to fast,saftey isn't an issue after seeing the damage to the car I ran into and only chipped paint on my bumper. When the guy in the Super Duty ran into the back of my 40 the only reason I had any damage was because of the lack of a rear bumber, but the SD needed a new front end. Can an 80 or a 100 take that kind of hit in the rear ?

My 100 was rear-ended in July. The Ford Ranger front end was totalled. My rear bumper was not hurt whatsoever. The only thing that happened was my tire carrier bent inwards a touch. I'll not fix it. Don't even have a scratch.

There's been several posts of 100-series rollovers where the people walked away. The body remains quite intact due to more frame and body upgrades since the 80-series.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

He just let you win so you didnt have to regear

You know what I'm talking about!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I'm thinking moderate to difficult. Don't want to do anything too crazy.

Moderate to diffucult. OK, first, my takes from my experience running both series:

Easy to moderate?...Clear choice (new or used 100)...no reason to live with the 80's drawbacks.
Moderate to difficult?...EZ choice if you buy a used 100 as it will do it all.
Difficult to very diffiicult?...80 has the edge due to smaller size, bigger lifts, and lower cost. Things about it might bother you, but it's better than taking a more costly and bigger rig out that on some trails will not do as well.
Rock crawl or extreme?...80 plain and simple....you don't worry about shortcomings...you just play.

Here's the deal......you mention DD for a while, then wheeling it. To me the big deal is that you mention family and kids? Because a 100 can run those trails (and harder) you intend to run, the main factor for me would be safety, then added size/comfort.

The added safety features the 100 provides, espeically 2000+ with VSC, set it far ahead of the old 80. When it comes to kids and the spouse it would have to be a 100 for me. The ONLY reason one would need to give that advantage up would be IF the vehicle did not suit there needs (say if you needed to rock crawl, or win trails that winch, winch, Rubicon, etc).

The 100 will suit your needs. It will do the job well, much better than an 80 (especially as your kids grow). It will hold together better, be more comfortable on trips, and in rain, snow, ice, or the like it'll be a mile ahead of the 80 on the street, safety-wise.

Good luck in finding a Cruiser.

 

[-Spike-]

Gosh, I don't know why we all don't own 100's. All other LC's are such crap, it doesn't make any sense to own anything else. Except the 40, of course, but purely for the style. I feel inadequate now. and my wife and child are probably gonna die coming back from the store this afternoon. I need to tell her how uncomfortable she is too. If she doesn't believe me, I'll just have her come read this. Such an expert, knowledgeable, and completely unbiased opinion will surely convince her.

-Spike (Oh yeah, where was that 'yawn' smiley? )

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Gosh, I don't know why we all don't own 100's. All other LC's are such crap, it doesn't make any sense to own anything else. Except the 40, of course, but purely for the style. I feel inadequate now. and my wife and child are probably gonna die coming back from the store this afternoon. I need to tell her how uncomfortable she is too. If she doesn't believe me, I'll just have her come read this. Such an expert, knowledgeable, and completely unbiased opinion will surely convince her.

-Spike (Oh yeah, where was that 'yawn' smiley? )

Naw. Don't feel badly. You fall into these categories so all is well. A 100's not for your needs.

*Difficult to very diffiicult?...80 has the edge due to smaller size, bigger lifts, and lower cost. Things about it might bother you, but it's better than taking a more costly and bigger rig out that on some trails will not do as well.

*Rock crawl or extreme?...80 plain and simple....you don't worry about shortcomings...you just play.

 

[FJ40LVR]

My 100 was rear-ended in July. The Ford Ranger front end was totalled. My rear bumper was not hurt whatsoever. The only thing that happened was my tire carrier bent inwards a touch. I'll not fix it. Don't even have a scratch.

There's been several posts of 100-series rollovers where the people walked away. The body remains quite intact due to more frame and body upgrades since the 80-series.

Not trying to stir the pot here but personally I don't think a Ranger falls into the same category as a Super Duty.....I think Bills point is the size of the vehicle. (Ranger 4000 lbs vs Super Duty 7000+ lbs.)

 

[Tools R Us]

John a couple of serious questions on your 80 brakes; What brand of pads are you running? Is your LSPV adjusted correctly and have you confirmed that it’s operating correctly? With your lift and light weight my guess is that LSPV is adjusted to low and your rear brakes are doing little or nothing, compounded by the pads not being ideal for the application.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

John a couple of serious questions on your 80 brakes; What brand of pads are you running? Is your LSPV adjusted correctly and have you confirmed that it’s operating correctly? With your lift and light weight my guess is that LSPV is adjusted to low and your rear brakes are doing little or nothing, compounded by the pads not being ideal for the application.

100 pads the the LSVP is correct.

 

[-Spike-]

Naw. Don't feel badly. You fall into these categories so all is well. A 100's not for your needs.

Oh, there's no question of my changing over to an inferior IFS 100, but my wife should know just how dangerously she's living, in her 80. Which she loves. Until I explain what a POS it is, anyway.

-Spike

 

[Tools R Us]

100 pads.

Brand?

the the LSVP is correct.

Have you confirmed it, can you lock up the rears with the CDL open and ABS off?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Brand?



Have you confirmed it, can you lock up the rears with the CDL open and ABS off?

Toyota

Have not run a test like that. You pull the ABS fuse to do it I believe.

 

[Tools R Us]

Toyota

Have you considered another pad? Toyota does a lot of things well, one of them is matching pads to stock 275-70 tires. Their criteria is something like, a good all-around pad with no bad habits for normal USA (soccer mom) driving. I wasn’t impressed with them and switch to EBC’s with better results. For your use, offroad and limited street miles, pad life isn’t as important as good strong initial bite. A lot of performance pads are geared towards sports cars, they have great friction and produce great stopping numbers, but are hard and must be hot to do it. We are looking for a softer pad that works well cold. The basic EBC Green Stuff pads are Kevlar, they make little dust and it rinses off, the only bad habit I have see is they groan sometimes offroad, but they have great bite and are very easy on rotors.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/greenstuffinfo.html

Have not run a test like that. You pull the ABS fuse to do it I believe.

Yep, go out to your favorite wide open, relatively level dirt road, pull the ABS fuse, have the CDL unlocked and have a helper watch. Make several passes and get a feel for how much pedal pressure it takes to lock the fronts. Then try to lock the rears, they should lock with just slightly more pressure and slightly after the fronts. Then you may want to confirm it on pavement, the dynamics are different.

The LSPV’s job is to sense the load in the rear and adjust the rear brakes accordingly. With a big load in the back it puts more pressure to the rears, when there is no load and a big braking event, the rear pitches up and the valve cuts of the pressure to the rears to prevent them from prematurely locking and the truck spinning.

When the truck is lifted the valve sees it as a light load and pitched up, cutting off the rears. With your lift and weight, my guess is that you will need the frame adjustment all of the way down and may need to make a simple bracket to rise the axle mount end to get the rears to come on strong.

The adjustment is very simple to do, only need to loosen 3 10mm nuts. I would tune it on both trucks, you will be pleasantly surprised at the brakeing improvement when it's properly adjusted.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

100 pads the the LSVP is correct.

My guess is no on the LSVP...I dont know of any shop with the proper equipment to adjust per FSM spec. I would be surprised if the dealer has it.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Have you considered another pad? Toyota does a lot of things well, one of them is matching pads to stock 275-70 tires. Their criteria is something like, a good all-around pad with no bad habits for normal USA (soccer mom) driving. I wasn’t impressed with them and switch to EBC’s with better results. For your use, offroad and limited street miles, pad life isn’t as important as good strong initial bite. A lot of performance pads are geared towards sports cars, they have great friction and produce great stopping numbers, but are hard and must be hot to do it. We are looking for a softer pad that works well cold. The basic EBC Green Stuff pads are Kevlar, they make little dust and it rinses off, the only bad habit I have see is they groan sometimes offroad, but they have great bite and are very easy on rotors.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/greenstuffinfo.html



Yep, go out to your favorite wide open, relatively level dirt road, pull the ABS fuse, have the CDL unlocked and have a helper watch. Make several passes and get a feel for how much pedal pressure it takes to lock the fronts. Then try to lock the rears, they should lock with just slightly more pressure and slightly after the fronts. Then you may want to confirm it on pavement, the dynamics are different.

The LSPV’s job is to sense the load in the rear and adjust the rear brakes accordingly. With a big load in the back it puts more pressure to the rears, when there is no load and a big braking event, the rear pitches up and the valve cuts of the pressure to the rears to prevent them from prematurely locking and the truck spinning.

When the truck is lifted the valve sees it as a light load and pitched up, cutting off the rears. With your lift and weight, my guess is that you will need the frame adjustment all of the way down and may need to make a simple bracket to rise the axle mount end to get the rears to come on strong.

The adjustment is very simple to do, only need to loosen 3 10mm nuts. I would tune it on both trucks, you will be pleasantly surprised at the brakeing improvement when it's properly adjusted.

Right on. I remember when we put the lift on our '93. It wouldn't stop at all! We didn't know then about the valve adjust but we learned fast. Tuning it made a huge difference.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

My guess is no on the LSVP...I dont know of any shop with the proper equipment to adjust per FSM spec. I would be surprised if the dealer has it.

If I remember correctly.....my guy even needed to make some sort of bracket due to my extreme lift height. ??? Don't remember. I'd have to look. I gave him my FSM and a printout from Slee/MUD on this.

 

[RHINO]

thats a pretty funny pic of the clean spot on the tire and dirt on the hood..... but, i wonder what the 100 would do if i rammed it with my 18 wheeler? LOL.

i remember when i lifted my old pick-up i took a measurement of that valve in the stock height locale, then after the lift i modded the rod to match the original setting. it seemed to work well at the time for a 6" lift.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

thats a pretty funny pic of the clean mark from the ranger hood on your spare tire,,, it matches the curve in the ranger hood pretty well too..... but, i wonder what the 100 would do if i rammed it with my 18 wheeler? LOL.

i remember when i lifted my old pick-up i took a measurement of that valve in the stock height locale, then after the lift i modded the rod to match the original setting. it seemed to work well at the time for a 6" lift.

18 wheeler? My bumper would have been unscathed but the frame and 100 would have been mangled.

If I'd a been in the LX450 at 7+ inches lift he'd a went under the thing. Plus, the bumpers on my LX are 3/8" c-shaped steel. It won't move. The maker warned me never to hit anybody or their vehicle is toast (and possibly my frame cuz the bumpers won't give).

 

[RHINO]

once you get to a point with heavy bumpers, thats exactly what happens, frame bending, then you wonder how expensive it woulda been if the bumper bent a little instead of the frame,,,, its a two way street i guess, one makes it stronger, but at the same time weaker.

the lift was also kinda my point about decreased safety from factory spec, i mean, it wouldnt really take alot to roll a lifted vehicle if a car was to get under it. but look what i drive

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

once you get to a point with heavy bumpers, thats exactly what happens, frame bending, then you wonder how expensive it woulda been if the bumper bent a little instead of the frame,,,, its a two way street i guess, one makes it stronger, but at the same time weaker.

the lift was also kinda my point about decreased safety from factory spec, i mean, it wouldnt really take alot to roll a lifted vehicle if a car was to get under it. but look what i drive

Yes...I only went this way on the LX because it's a dedicated trail rig. We really don't drive it except to and from.

And it is on a danger side right now. I have not swapped the rims or put on spacers. It is top-heavy for certain. I can feel it on the trail even and do not like it.