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like i said, excessive speed and following too close. i know i know, the car in front stopped on a dime and even thought she was doing the speed limit and following 5 seconds behind that stupid piece of crap 80 just couldnt stop.

it really makes me wonder, how all these years in Phx traffic i have managed to not rear end any one in my under braked 37" tire 55.

Not quite....what her and the kids said was that IF she'd a been in the 100 that day there would have been NO accidient. Those extra added feet would have made the difference. She only needed maybe 8 feet shorter stopping distance. Hell, the kids could see it.

Of course it's her fault. She should have been farther behind in that vehicle.
 
Retard here. This makes about as much sense as I may have ever read on this forum. Modding a vehicle for four wheeling has nothing.......nevermind. :D


oh wait, lemme try to finish your thought,,, modifying a vehicle for off road performance has nothing to do with on road performance. a lifted oversize tire rig, accelerates, corners and stops just as good as the factory one?? did i get that right?

your right, that makes no sense at all, i'll take my rig to firebird raceway tommorrow and tell them shotts said modifying a rig for four wheeling has nothing to do with anything and i should be allowed on the track with the race cars.
 
shotts makes valid points about safety and stuff he also has modified his rig from stock making it less safe than the factory intended and that negates his whole safety argument.

You above basically say: Modifying a vehicle for an intended purpose makes it less safe than from the factory (stock), therefore Shotts' statements about braking between the 100 and 80 are meaningless.

In this thread I said:
With larger tires the braking system on the 100 is notably superior to the 80-series.

That's all. Make of it want you like. :)
 
Well, we have John's wife and kids expert opinion on the 80 series inadequate braking system. I guess it's settled then.

Back to repair costs- Shotts, you and Phil are in the rare position of owning both 80's and 100's around here, and I somehow doubt Phil will be chiming in since we hijacked this so completely. You seem to have forgotten some of the issues your 100 has had. Please scour your memory and compare the repair bills for yours, and give us your (dare I ask for an unbiased?) opinion of which has cost you less to own. Please don't include money spent on parts and labor for fixing things that weren't broken.

For some reason, some go nuts when they keep hearing the vehicle they do not own (100) is superior to theirs in certain (or most) ways.

Its statements like this one that show how biased you are. A vehicle's 'superiority' is in the eyes of the beholder, and yet you constantly push your opinion as God's spoken truth.

-Spike
 
... The front rotors on the two trucks are the same diameter, don't know about the rears. The only difference is pad composition, and 100 pads fit on an 80, as well as many aftermarket options. ...


-Spike

It's a little deeper than that; The 100 has a different master cylinder/booster ratio, causing an "instant on" over boosted feel, some like that feel. The 80 has a more old school long pedal stroke feel, for the trail I prefer it, way easier to modulate the brakes for smooth trail driving. Don't have any trail time in a 100, but do in the FJC and IMHO they are way over boosted, on - off like a switch, my trail time in them has been jerky, or more jerky than normal!:D It's a matter of personal preference and getting used to it.

But your right the 80 & 100 braking systems are very close in the numbers that matter for performance and predictably produce close performance numbers. The 80 requires longer pedal travel and more pressure to get there. Also IIRC the newer 100's have larger rotors & calipers, they produce better numbers.

Their both great reliable trucks, I give the highway/forest road edge to the 100 and the wheeling edge to the locked 80, due to it being slightly more wheeling capable out of the box and having a better, easier upgrade path. I'm shocked that no one has mentioned the #1 advantage of the 100, it has CUP HOLDERS!:D
 
A vehicle's 'superiority' is in the eyes of the beholder, and yet you constantly push your opinion as God's spoken truth.

-Spike

Eyes of the beholder = Subjective

What's important to one is not important to all. If a person's eyes do not like or "see" that the 100 is so superior, that doesn't change the objective facts.

Luv or hate, the 100 has:

More power
Smoother
Safer (better brakes, VSC, structuraly more strong and with more crossmembers)
Quieter
Larger
Rides nicer

Just because one person's "eyes" don't care or prefer those benefits doesn't mean the benefits are not there. :)

And it's not fair to use my 100 in the mix. It was bought new and wheeled for 125K miles. So yes I've had 2 steering racks put on and wheel bearings repacked 4 times. Other than that I've had almost no failures, just maintenance.
 
for the trail I prefer it

But your right the 80 & 100 braking systems are very close in the numbers that matter for performance and predictably produce close performance numbers.

Their both great reliable trucks, I give the highway/forest road edge to the 100 and the wheeling edge to the locked 80, due to it being slightly more wheeling capable out of the box and having a better, easier upgrade path. I'm shocked that no one has mentioned the #1 advantage of the 100, it has CUP HOLDERS!:D

Cup holders matter!

On the trail I don't know about the FJC. On the trail the 100s brakes are even more a plus than the 80s compared to street. When decending steep grades and dropping off big rocks and ledges the 100 really shines. While the 80's require near butt-off-the-seat pressure (especially if wet) the 100 takes little effort. I can't tell you how many times in both my 80's I've been freaking about certain descents because the brakes just keep letting the wheel "roll". You keep pushing and pushing hoping they bite. This doesn't happen in the 100.

Another way of putting it:

80: Sometimes you wonder if you have enough braking to stop you where you need on a decent.

100: There's far more reserve than you need and you can feel this. It adds security and you don't sweat the decents making it much easier on the driver.

Those numbers you mention are stock to stock. I've never argued that. Those numbers are meaningless on a built vehicle which this postee mentioned he will eventually do.
 
...
And it's not fair to use my 100 in the mix. It was bought new and wheeled for 125K miles. So yes I've had 2 steering racks put on and wheel bearings repacked 4 times. Other than that I've had almost no failures, just maintenance.

Did you "maintenance" just the one differential or more?:D
 
I guess the 100 series could also be an option. I've just never seen a 100 up close and don't really know the difference in it and the 80. Now it sounds like the 100 is probably a better option as a DD. In the long run, which would be better for wheeling (I'm looking ahead here). Now....can we all get along? I didn't mean to cause any problems with this thread just needed some info.
 
You above basically say: Modifying a vehicle for an intended purpose makes it less safe than from the factory (stock), therefore Shotts' statements about braking between the 100 and 80 are meaningless.


nope, not what i said, your statements are not meaningless. i said that when you modify a vehicle for off road use it is not safer. doesnt matter the vehicle, my point was we need to be vigilant drivers when we lift our rigs from stock.
 
Did you "maintenance" just the one differential or more?:D

Just one. :D

I can't fault the 4-PIN diff for that failure. If I'd a pulled the same thing in an 80 it'd probably went too. You seen the hill. I was lifting and dropping one front wheel over and over for 10 minutes trying to climb that hill. That was my deal, not the trucks. DRIVER error. Hey, at least the thing was 100% driveable. It only made noise on de-cell.

To fault the 100 for this is to:

Blame ARB for hitting the LOCK button while you're on the gas with a wheel spinning in the air.

Blame an 80 blowing a birf for turning to full lock then hitting the skinny pedel while locked and twisted.
 
I guess the 100 series could also be an option. I've just never seen a 100 up close and don't really know the difference in it and the 80. Now it sounds like the 100 is probably a better option as a DD. In the long run, which would be better for wheeling (I'm looking ahead here). Now....can we all get along? I didn't mean to cause any problems with this thread just needed some info.

Naw.....we're all having fun. We have different driving needs and that makes for different opinions.

So how heavy a wheeling you plan on doing?

Easy to moderate?
Moderate to difficult?
Difficult to very diffiicult?
Rock crawl or extreme?
 
I'm thinking moderate to difficult. Don't want to do anything too crazy.
 
In the long run, which would be better for wheeling (I'm looking ahead here). Now....can we all get along? I didn't mean to cause any problems with this thread just needed some info.

Now what you really need is a 40......:grinpimp:
 
haha yeah dont mean to scare to wancho, this is just what we do sometimes:grinpimp:

moderate to difficult? could still be either, there are a good number of IFS rigs out there wheelin pretty hard. the 80 definitely has more aftermarket and build parts available,, she will prolly like the 100 better, but i think you'll like the 80. what about an FJC?
 
Yeah, a 40 would be awesome! But I'm not sure the misses would like tooling around in one. FJC is cool, but we've got two kids and getting them in and out of one doesn't look like the easiest thing. We had a 4runner in the past so she really likes those, but I'm pulling for a LC whether it be an 80 or 100.
 
x2 on getting .We live in the desert, Deal withthe heat. Better vision for picking lines when wheeling. Never have to worry about going to fast,saftey isn't an issue after seeing the damage to the car I ran into and only chipped paint on my bumper. When the guy in the Super Duty ran into the back of my 40 the only reason I had any damage was because of the lack of a rear bumber, but the SD needed a new front end. Can an 80 or a 100 take that kind of hit in the rear ?
 
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