Land cruiser buying advice - not running

[alscott000]

Ok so, I would very much appreciate all of the input I can get here so feel free to have at this. I have an opportunity to get an LX 470 for likely very short money (maybe a couple grand?) and there are some definite pros and cons of this truck. I do not have any pictures but I will be as descriptive as possible. Here it goes:

2004 LX 470 with only 100,209 original miles. I think we can all agree that for a 100 series in the year 2020, that is pretty low. The truck is fully loaded, and the interior is flawless.It even had its timing belt and water pump replaced at 97k miles. The exterior is a little rough, with a scrape in the front bumper, heavy paint fade on the hood, and the passenger side mirror is broken. Overall, for 100k miles, I'd say its a pretty rare truck for only a few thousand dollars. But here's the catch...

It is not running. The story goes, in 2018 the guy used the truck to jump start another vehicle and then the LX just shut off. He had the battery and the starter replaced. With the key in the ignition, everything works. But when you turn the key, the engine makes just one quick "click" sound and that's it. It won't even turn over.

So my questions are, should I buy it? does anyone have any idea as to what might of happened? is it fixable? is it worth fixing? and lastly, how much should I offer him? I asked him how much he'd sell it for, and he told me to just make an offer. Him and his wife both just want it gone, which leads to me think I can get it for cheap. By the way, it has a clean title and everything.

Any input is good input. I have never owned a Land Cruiser before, but I have always admired them and know the basics. Might this be the one? I'll let you guys decide. Thanks!

 

[hkeller]

Will he let you take it to a mechanic? Might just be the starter. If no rust and the engine isn't blown, sounds like a damn good buy. If it has lived its life in MA, it might be rusted to the point you don't want it.

 

[alscott000]

Will he let you take it to a mechanic? Might just be the starter. If no rust and the engine isn't blown, sounds like a damn good buy. If it has lived its life in MA, it might be rusted to the point you don't want it.

I forgot to address the rust, my bad. The underside has a few spots here and there with rust, but no rot. Ive seen a lot worst personally and, if I had picture of it to show here, Im sure plenty of people here would agree that they've seen a lot worst too. I'd say its the type of rust that can be fixed with a wire brush drill attachment, some paint, and a weekend.

 

[gregnash]

My first thought would be starter and maybe EFI relay. The starter is in a pretty abysmal place to get to, so replacement is not quick, though not overly involved. Cost for me to have replaced with a reman'd denso and keeping old to rebuild myself was about $1200.

EFI portion could be a different story. Can you get a code reader (even cheap OBDII from like Autozone, Harbor Freight, or bluetooth version) to plug in and see what codes are being thrown. This will give you a better indicator of what is going on.

 

[yellowcake12]

I'm not a very experienced person with this vehicle, having had it for only about a year and reading MUD for about 6 months, but i had a similar issue with mine. Worst case scenario its the ECU but could just be fuses or fusible links. Sounds like the ECU isnt sending the proper signal to the starter for whatever reason. The FSM has many electrical troubleshooting sections to test the relevant power circuits (using a multimeter).

The potential fixes for this problem probably wont cost very much, but could be bit of a challenge. Knowing what I know, i'd say the truck sounds like a bargain assuming its only a couple grand

 

[l3n0x]

Never buy a car that can't be started (and test-ridden), it's almost never worth the gamble. That's my advice. If it has a blown tranny, transfer or engine, especially a combination, it wouldn't be reasonable to fix it, even if you can get it for free.
But it might be just my eastern-european thinking, where people kill an ecu or a relay on purpose so a car can't be started to mask bigger problems this way.

 

[alscott000]

My first thought would be starter and maybe EFI relay. The starter is in a pretty abysmal place to get to, so replacement is not quick, though not overly involved. Cost for me to have replaced with a reman'd denso and keeping old to rebuild myself was about $1200.

EFI portion could be a different story. Can you get a code reader (even cheap OBDII from like Autozone, Harbor Freight, or bluetooth version) to plug in and see what codes are being thrown. This will give you a better indicator of what is going on.

I may go back with a code reader and see what it says. The guy even mentioned that if I thought I could fix it myself, he would let me do it right there where it is parked on his property. So maybe replacing the starter and some other components isn't a ridiculous idea.

 

[alscott000]

Never buy a car that can't be started (and test-ridden), it's almost never worth the gamble. That's my advice. If it has a blown tranny, transfer or engine, especially a combination, it wouldn't be reasonable to fix it, even if you can get it for free.
But it might be just my eastern-european thinking, where people kill an ecu or a relay on purpose so a car can't be started to mask bigger problems this way.

I totally understand what you are saying, and somewhat agree. To me, it's potentially worth the risk because in my area of the country these 100 series Land Cruisers are listed for ridiculously high prices. I believe this may give me a chance to get the lowest milage one for little money (little money comparatively to what others go for around here)

 

[l3n0x]

Why ask, if you’ve already decided?)P

 

[alscott000]

Why ask, if you’ve already decided?)P

Well, I haven't FULLY decided yet. I would like opionions and input from people who know more than me, like you

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Welcome to Mud. I changed your thread title, it looked like you were having an emergency. Spend some time reading the FAQ and searching for similar symptoms - you'll find things about the immobilizer and starter, good reading there.

 

[alscott000]

Any other opinions?

 

[ramangain]

Yeah, you may be in super duper luck. This is a common symptom that is cured by removing the battery terminals, cleaning, and reclamping them very securely. If that solves it you owe me a diet mountain dew

 

[87warrior]

If the vehicle is clean, I would "go for it". Worse case scenario you part it out and sell some of the big ticket items to recover the cost of the vehicle. I wouldn't pay more than $1,500 for it in non-running condition.

 

[alscott000]

Yeah, you may be in super duper luck. This is a common symptom that is cured by removing the battery terminals, cleaning, and reclamping them very securely. If that solves it you owe me a diet mountain dew

I'll take you up on that bet, because when I was there I clamped those terminals down as good as they'd go. Its gotta be something else...

 

[MJK]

Why would someone sell a $10k truck for $3k, if the difference was a $2k fix?

Assuming you are not a friend/relative of the seller, then their shadiness, laziness, ignorance or lack of liquid cash all mean the same thing to you. You better know more about this truck than they do, or you risk being on the losing end. Nobody here is going to be able to help make this a meaningfully lower risk transaction without knowing a lot more about the truck. Do the free stuff first. Post photos, poke around, look at fluids, bring a knowledgeable friend and look up the service history on Lexus Owners site.

Best case seems to be savings of $4-5k, maybe more if you are extremely lucky and DIY friendly. Worst case means spending more than it it worth fixing hidden gotchas at the dealer. Brake pump? Steering rack? A/C? Engine/trans/driveline? Suspension? Rust? Driveline boots/flanges? They add up quick. Are you confident in your ability to spot them prior to purchase? DIY them after purchase?

Personally:

I'd walk immediately if the seller seems shady, the truck doesn't look well cared for, or your liquid cash position is such that the worst case scenario puts a strain on your finances.​

​

If you are a DIYer in no hurry, with plenty of liquid funds and free weekends, then it may be worth a punt. I'd still hedge my bets with a knowledgeable PPI or negotiate the purchase price in 'as fixed' condition.​

​

Any truck of this age will need maintenance/upkeep. $10k done or $4k project, I'd budget for tires/bushings/ball joints/brakes/belts/fluids/filters unless you can prove they've been done. Don't neglect this as part of your all in budget. These are not Camry cheap to keep running.​

​

The best deals are rarely the cheapest prices, but elbow grease helps. If this is all about low cost of entry, you'd probably do better by getting a high milage, well cared for rig from mudder in a low salt area.

 

[alscott000]

Why would someone sell a $10k truck for $3k, if the difference was a $2k fix?

Assuming you are not a friend/relative of the seller, then their shadiness, laziness, ignorance or lack of liquid cash all mean the same thing to you. You better know more about this truck than they do, or you risk being on the losing end. Nobody here is going to be able to help make this a meaningfully lower risk transaction without knowing a lot more about the truck. Do the free stuff first. Post photos, poke around, look at fluids, bring a knowledgeable friend and look up the service history on Lexus Owners site.

Best case seems to be savings of $4-5k, maybe more if you are extremely lucky and DIY friendly. Worst case means spending more than it it worth fixing hidden gotchas at the dealer. Brake pump? Steering rack? A/C? Engine/trans/driveline? Suspension? Rust? Driveline boots/flanges? They add up quick. Are you confident in your ability to spot them prior to purchase? DIY them after purchase?

Personally:

I'd walk immediately if the seller seems shady, the truck doesn't look well cared for, or your liquid cash position is such that the worst case scenario puts a strain on your finances.​

​

If you are a DIYer in no hurry, with plenty of liquid funds and free weekends, then it may be worth a punt. I'd still hedge my bets with a knowledgeable PPI or negotiate the purchase price in 'as fixed' condition.​

​

Any truck of this age will need maintenance/upkeep. $10k done or $4k project, I'd budget for tires/bushings/ball joints/brakes/belts/fluids/filters unless you can prove they've been done. Don't neglect this as part of your all in budget. These are not Camry cheap to keep running.​

​

The best deals are rarely the cheapest prices, but elbow grease helps. If this is all about low cost of entry, you'd probably do better by getting a high milage, well cared for rig from mudder in a low salt area.

I completely understand and agree with what you are saying. For what it's worth, the truck looks like it has been very well cared for for its whole life. Like I mentioned, it is very clean overall and even has had its timing belt and water pump replaced. It even has a Lexus brand battery in it. I think if you, or anyone else saw this truck, you would also agree that it hasn't been neglected.

The guy who owns the truck doesn't come off as being shady at all. He is very helpful, and allows me to poke at the whole truck no questions asked. He just wants it gone. He doesn't even have the truck listed for sale anywhere, I was simply driving by his house a few days ago and asked him if he'd consider selling.

Here in Massachusetts, these trucks are expensive. Simply put. I'm gonna critique you on one thing, and that is the fact that I would be saving WAY more than $5k if I were able to get this truck running again. But the rest of your points are definitely noteworthy.

I guess what I'm looking for here on this forum is how much could I possibly spend (maximum) on trying to trace and fix whatever electrical issue is preventing the truck from starting, and after that cost + the cost of the vehicle itself (lets just say $2k for the truck) will it be worth the risk?

 

[MongooseGA]

I may go back with a code reader and see what it says. The guy even mentioned that if I thought I could fix it myself, he would let me do it right there where it is parked on his property. So maybe replacing the starter and some other components isn't a ridiculous idea.

This is nice of him, but if you're gonna attempt a repair in his driveway, do yourself a favor and make sure it's done AFTER you've transferred any funds and completed all paperwork. You'd hate to get it fixed with something really simple then have the seller go "eehhh... Here's $100 for your time and the fix, I think I'll just keep it".

Why would someone sell a $10k truck for $3k, if the difference was a $2k fix?

Assuming you are not a friend/relative of the seller, then their shadiness, laziness, ignorance or lack of liquid cash all mean the same thing to you. You better know more about this truck than they do, or you risk being on the losing end. Nobody here is going to be able to help make this a meaningfully lower risk transaction without knowing a lot more about the truck. Do the free stuff first. Post photos, poke around, look at fluids, bring a knowledgeable friend and look up the service history on Lexus Owners site.

Best case seems to be savings of $4-5k, maybe more if you are extremely lucky and DIY friendly. Worst case means spending more than it it worth fixing hidden gotchas at the dealer. Brake pump? Steering rack? A/C? Engine/trans/driveline? Suspension? Rust? Driveline boots/flanges? They add up quick. Are you confident in your ability to spot them prior to purchase? DIY them after purchase?

Personally:

I'd walk immediately if the seller seems shady, the truck doesn't look well cared for, or your liquid cash position is such that the worst case scenario puts a strain on your finances.​

​

If you are a DIYer in no hurry, with plenty of liquid funds and free weekends, then it may be worth a punt. I'd still hedge my bets with a knowledgeable PPI or negotiate the purchase price in 'as fixed' condition.​

​

Any truck of this age will need maintenance/upkeep. $10k done or $4k project, I'd budget for tires/bushings/ball joints/brakes/belts/fluids/filters unless you can prove they've been done. Don't neglect this as part of your all in budget. These are not Camry cheap to keep running.​

​

The best deals are rarely the cheapest prices, but elbow grease helps. If this is all about low cost of entry, you'd probably do better by getting a high milage, well cared for rig from mudder in a low salt area.

This is sage advice. However, there are plenty of non-car-people who don't care about the money hit, and would more value the open space in the yard/garage/driveway. Thus was the case with a '59 Dodge project car I owned as a teen, but ended up giving the whole thing away just to clean my hands of it after a while.

 

[alscott000]

This is nice of him, but if you're gonna attempt a repair in his driveway, do yourself a favor and make sure it's done AFTER you've transferred any funds and completed all paperwork. You'd hate to get it fixed with something really simple then have the seller go "eehhh... Here's $100 for your time and the fix, I think I'll just keep it".



This is sage advice. However, there are plenty of non-car-people who don't care about the money hit, and would more value the open space in the yard/garage/driveway. Thus was the case with a '59 Dodge project car I owned as a teen, but ended up giving the whole thing away just to clean my hands of it after a while.

You just made two points that I agree with completely.

Im definitely not gonna fix it in his driveway, because in all honesty based on feedback Ive gotten here and what Ive read online, it seems like this may be an easy fix. Also, in terms of you're second point, he does need the driveway space. When I was there looking at it, his wife came out and was so thrilled with the idea of freeing up some space. The guy has kids who all drive, and with him and his wife, his driveway was already full. So yes, I think he values having more driveway space and also I don't think he knew exactly what he had.

 

[Eyedaho]

I would check the fluids for signs of issues. Is the motor oil clean with no milky residue? Coolant looks clean (you can drain a small amount out if the petcock on the bottom of the radiator into a jar), transmission fluid looks/smells ok? If it's on flat ground, can you roll if a few feet in neutral and make sure it doesn't sound like broken metal? If I didn't see any other issues and I didn't mind parting it out if it came to that, I would take the risk personally. As others have said, it might be something easy. Then again, it could be that they hooked up the jumper cables backwards and fried something electronic. Can you tell what clicks when you turn the key? If it's the starter then you've either got bad contacts in the starter or a bad battery or starter cable connection. If it's a relay clicking then could be electronics. Ultimately don't pay more than you would for a car to part out, and you either part it out and do ok or get lucky and get a cheap car to drive.