KZJ78 not starting - after injector pump rebuild (1 Viewer)

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I changed the timing up about 2mm on the pump with no change in the behaviour of the motor. I also opened the air screw on the pump while running the engine and no change. I tried opening 2 injector pipes to air out while running the engine and no change. Cleared the engine code and code 14 came back.

Checked the timing and all of the marks line up.

I'm wondering if maybe, just maybe the key on the injection pump "spline" might have fallen off during assembly so that the pump is not lined up correctly. I just don't see how the engine code 14 is possible otherwise. Any other thoughts?

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Ok, so that all looks good. I have to admit, that I am used to working on the non ecu controlled 1HZ. I did a little research on the 1KZ-TE, and there are others who have also had these issues, and one post came up that had a potential resolution.

Because these pumps do final tweaks via ECU on timing, it is imperative that you have good connections on the electronics on the pump - check for any compromised wires or connectors, and test the solenoid at the back/bottom of the pump below the injector lines coming out of the pump.

I do not have the acceptable resistance level range on hand for that solenoid, but a quick check to make sure it is not open(shorted) would be a good idea. If it is not shorted, then record the resistance and look it up to see if it is still in spec. Hang in there, persistence and patience is your friend when working on these diesels, frustrating as it is at the time. :cheers:
 
One other thought... I realize that you changed the fuel filter, but just to rule out fuel supply issues, you could also rig up a bottle to direct feed fuel to the pump and see if that changes anything. If it does, and it runs nicely, the next step would be to go through and check all the fuel lines and pickup to figure out where the fuel restriction is. Best of luck! :cheers:
 
I checked the resistance on the spill control valve and got 1.8 ohms (spec. 1-2 ohms) and timing control valve 9.6 (spec 10-14 @ 20C). It's just 10 degrees celsius outside so that doesn't seem too far off. Both valves click and sound good when applying 12V. I guess next thing would be to supply a bottle straight to the pump, not quite sure what I'll find but a great weekend activity :D

Thank you for all of the help @Rigster
 
I got it started tonight and kept it running. The behaviour was as before. I also checked the engine error code and it was

14 = Timing control signal (crankshaft angle 7 deg or more out from target).

Not even sure how that is possible?
There is a line on the injection pump that neede to be line-up on the timing cover.
 
Hey @VannCruiser sorry for the late reply!

Since the issues started after I removed the valve on the back of the pump I decided to remove the same one once again to check for any bad signs. I also ordered new original parts instead of an aftermarket gasket kit.

The valve itself looks really suspicious and I'm wondering if it might leak from here? Anyways I ordered a new valve but it's not been delivered yet. Could one bad milimeter of the thread cause a leak? Maybe.

The new copper ring gasket does not have the same dimensions as the one in the gasket kit so that might also be a culprit. Finally the valve could have been seated improperly so that's my third thing I'll double check. Most unlikely though.

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I changed the gasket and now it starts right up and the smoke is gone. I noticed that it smokes heavy if I push the pedal fast but that might be just old diesel and not having been run in about 2 years.
 

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