KZJ78 not starting - after injector pump rebuild (2 Viewers)

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AxelNilsson

AxelNilsson

Joined
May 4, 2022
Threads
2
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18
Location
Sweden
Hi,

I had a leak from the rear of the injector pump on the 1KZ-TE. I took off the injector pump and replaced the o rings and put the pump back. The engine started up but it still leaked. I figured it was from the rear valves since I didn't replace the gasket on those. I only wanted to replace the gasket on the specific valve I thought was leaking. I tried to remove the valve while the pump was still on the car this time, but I managed to lose the spring in the valve... 2 weeks go by and I find the spring, it was on the floor in the car. To not remake the same mistake I take the pump off of the car this time. I change out the gasket and put everything back together. This time the car doesn't start... I unscrewed the injector pipes sligthly on the engine block and there is diesel coming out when I'm cranking the engine on at least 3 of the 4 injector pipes, the 4th one is a bit tough to reach.

Currently I'm suspecting either air in the system or some sort of dirt in the injectors. I obviously cleaned everything thoroughly. If it wouldn't have started the first time I pulled off the pump I would have been more worred but this time I only unscrewed one of the 4 valves on the back, can that really make the car have such a tough time starting again?

I think the timing is correct. An image of the timing mark and the pump is attached.
IMG_5916.jpeg



Would appreciate any help.
Thanks!
 
I managed to get it to start after adjusting the timing. But now I have an issue with white smoke. I believe my timing is still off, however not by as much as before.
Either that or there was air in the fuel lines that is starting to clear now after cranking 2 batteries worth of power.

IMG_5975.jpeg


IMG_5976.jpeg


IMG_5977.jpeg
 
white smokes usually air i do believe
 
there is a 'procedure' to bleed the air properly, it can be stubborn
 
I replaced the injection pump in Guatemala a few months back. All you have to do is loosen the 4 injector lines on the pump and crank it for a few seconds until it squirts fuel out. Tighten it up and you're good. White smoke is for sure just air in the fuel, but it shouldn't last more than 20-30 seconds really, maaaaybe just a little puff here and there while it gets the last few bubbles out. Honestly the fuel system is fairly simple, just loosen all the lines off (on the pump and injectors) and retighten to make sure everything is seated properly. If you still have white smoke make sure the fuel filter and fuel hoses are seated correctly. Once I just had a bad o-ring on the fuel pump, it was enough to let air in and cause it to hiccup a bit.
 
Black94Prado said:
I replaced the injection pump in Guatemala a few months back. All you have to do is loosen the 4 injector lines on the pump and crank it for a few seconds until it squirts fuel out. Tighten it up and you're good. White smoke is for sure just air in the fuel, but it shouldn't last more than 20-30 seconds really, maaaaybe just a little puff here and there while it gets the last few bubbles out. Honestly the fuel system is fairly simple, just loosen all the lines off (on the pump and injectors) and retighten to make sure everything is seated properly. If you still have white smoke make sure the fuel filter and fuel hoses are seated correctly. Once I just had a bad o-ring on the fuel pump, it was enough to let air in and cause it to hiccup a bit.
Click to expand...
I think you might be onto something. I noticed that the diesel filter hand pump was leaking when I was pumping it. I'm sure it broke when I hand pumped after re-installing the pump. Going to order that now.

Will get back to you once it's arrived :)

Thanks!
 
AxelNilsson said:
I think you might be onto something. I noticed that the diesel filter hand pump was leaking when I was pumping it. I'm sure it broke when I hand pumped after re-installing the pump. Going to order that now.

Will get back to you once it's arrived :)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yeah that might be it, I never had the filter hand pump leak. Also, when you do bleed it, crack the lines at the injectors not the pump, just noticed I wrote that backwards. Either way you should be good, sounds simple enough
 
So I've replaced the hand pump and the filter now. It doesn't leak anymore. However it did nothing to the smoke.
I've bled the pump again and each injector. I can hear each injector "click" when I put a screwdriver to it so I think they are all working.

It seems like the issue gets worse the longer the car is running. The car started on only 3 cylinder each time I bleed an injector.

Also, the engine light comes on about 5-10 seconds after the car starts running.

Any suggestions?
 
coldtaco said:
If you haven’t yet I would start from the fuel tank pickup and go from there. Some of the fuel pickups get rusty and crack letting air in
Click to expand...
Thanks! I do believe that everything to the filter is fine because the pressure in the filter is high and feels like fuel. The hand pump is not "airy".

Black94Prado said:
I replaced the injection pump in Guatemala a few months back. All you have to do is loosen the 4 injector lines on the pump and crank it for a few seconds until it squirts fuel out. Tighten it up and you're good. White smoke is for sure just air in the fuel, but it shouldn't last more than 20-30 seconds really, maaaaybe just a little puff here and there while it gets the last few bubbles out. Honestly the fuel system is fairly simple, just loosen all the lines off (on the pump and injectors) and retighten to make sure everything is seated properly. If you still have white smoke make sure the fuel filter and fuel hoses are seated correctly. Once I just had a bad o-ring on the fuel pump, it was enough to let air in and cause it to hiccup a bit.
Click to expand...

What O-ring? Did it also leak fuel or just let in air?


I took a video of what it sounds like when it's running, but it's not pretty. I'm not the one "cycling" it. It revs up and down by itself. It's like it's strained for fuel.

 
AxelNilsson said:
Thanks! I do believe that everything to the filter is fine because the pressure in the filter is high and feels like fuel. The hand pump is not "airy".



What O-ring? Did it also leak fuel or just let in air?


I took a video of what it sounds like when it's running, but it's not pretty. I'm not the one "cycling" it. It revs up and down by itself. It's like it's strained for fuel.

Click to expand...


Hmmmm.... It's running a bit different than just an air leak I think. But the O-rings I mean are on the fuel filter. One at the top, and one at the bottom. Did you try changing the filter? I know it's simple but sometimes that's how it is. Test the MAF sensor too, then I'd test the fuel pressure if everything is all good.

Also, the injection pump was just rebuilt? From the video it looks like the pulley sprocket isn't on straight.

And hard to tell but looks like the vacuum line from your intake might be bent a bit tight. If the MAF tests good try just running your vacuum line direct from the intake manifold to the MAF and bypassing the gas filter
 
Last edited:
Sorry for a late reply, winter came inbetween...

I think my timing was way off. When I removed the pump I must have accidently set the timing 2 "teeth" of so I moved the timing belt back and now it all looks perfect. However, the engine won't start at all. When I opened the injector line there were air bubbles coming out with diesel at one cylinder. I'm going to bleed once again and se if it helps.
 
I bled the lines at the injectors for about 30-40 turns and the bubbles disappeared but still not starting. Had to take a break because the starter motor got hot. I pulled out the ECU and all capacitors looked good. Next thing might be checking the electronics of the pump?
 
I am a little confused, as it seems you were trying to fix a leak at the pump, but in the video the title says you have done a fuel pump rebuild? Just want to understand what all has been done on the fuel pump.

That said, watching the video, it is acting like the pump is starved of fuel. I am not familiar with the 1KZ-TE - this being an ECU controlled pump, but is there a fuel adjustment screw on the pump to regulate supply? Was this touched and played with at all? Too much fuel, and it will be revving higher, too little and you get the surging at idle like that, and it will not be drivable.

Might be worth checking out.... :cheers:
 
Hey @Rigster ,

The pump was removed due to a fuel leak and all gaskets were checked. Then I put the pump back and everything was running normally but it still leaked. I managed to locate the leak to one of the fuel lines on the back (going to the injectors) and changed that washer. Nothing else was touched besides the fuel lines that time. Ever since it's been acting up. I changed the filter and filter housing after that because it was leaking due to all of my pumping.

Today I opened the air nut on the pump and pressed the filter pump at the same time. It was bubbling at the pump and then became just diesel. After that I tried starting it and it actually did fire for the first time since august but it shut down immediately and I was unable to get it started again due to low battery. Will try to get it running again tomorrow once the battery is charged again but I am feeling hopeful.
 
I got it started tonight and kept it running. The behaviour was as before. I also checked the engine error code and it was

14 = Timing control signal (crankshaft angle 7 deg or more out from target).

Not even sure how that is possible?
 
it is possible if the gears and/or belt moved when removing and putting back the pump. It doesn't take much, just one tooth could do it.

Back to basics - Best case would be to remove the timing belt cover and go through the procedure to make sure everything is timed just right.
 
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