Knuckles were next - how scared should I be of these in this condition? (1 Viewer)

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Good list
 
ashy
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classy 😎

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yea 5-6 hours from you to me with axles like that would be tough.
look for otramm on youtube. he has it on his channel.

your grocery list is as follows:
  1. rubber seal set (PM Ranma as he can get you the OEM stuff with the bearings delivered to your door really cheap)
  2. 54mm socket, do not use a screwdriver to take off the 54mm nut, u need to put it back in and torque it right (2 nuts per side, 4 nuts) these nuts are $10 a pop, do u want to whack $40 in nuts with a flat head screwdriver and gouge them? I dont
  3. Inner race driver for the inner race seal (wits end sells it, google the shop) I have it, u could use alternatives but im pretty sure, u want to use wits end driver as you have wear on the axles themselves (DO NOT FORCE THE OLD SEAL OUT) U can seriously gouge that soft metal in there. use proper tools.
  4. the 17mm which hold the caliper, was the hardest part for me. just get some good breaker bars that can give the right leverage when removing it, u may want to turn the wheel so u can get access.
  5. get a brass wire wheel for a drill, helps to spin some or all of the surface rust off.

im down for cruiser talk all the time, PM me if u need anything. i did this for 2x trucks already


went from ashy to classy
Money - thanks for posting that one!

Got the driver from WE already on the list, probably just buy his 54mm tool as well while I’m at it.

Cheers!
 
Also realize that what you are looking at on the exterior are NOT the "birfs".

You may already know that, but a couple comments make me think maybe you don't realize that.

The birfs are actually the axle shaft and joint inside the knuckle ball you are looking at.

Just making sure everyone is on the same page.
 
Your moly should be at about 2/3 full level inside the ball. Get it nice and warm then let it settle before checking with chopstick. Doesn't hurt to smear grease on the outside in the meantime.

IIRC Ottram went throught the FSM procedure to shim the kingpin bearings and basically came up with inconclusive measurements. I've had good luck just re-using the same shims that were in there to begin with. (This won't make sense until you have the balls off of course but thought I'd chip in.)

There does appear to be grease leaking from somewhere in your pic. Likely the inner spindle seal?
 
@BILT4ME Thats a good point out for us newbs reading. I do understand, but my posts haven’t been clear on that, for sure! My comments on birf replacement is simply my badditude - assuming the inside is trashed after looking at the outside. (And partly just wanting a fresh start. Although at some point buying a new FJ80 one part at a time is not likely cost effective...)


Your moly should be at about 2/3 full level inside the ball. Get it nice and warm then let it settle before checking with chopstick. Doesn't hurt to smear grease on the outside in the meantime.

IIRC Ottram went throught the FSM procedure to shim the kingpin bearings and basically came up with inconclusive measurements. I've had good luck just re-using the same shims that were in there to begin with. (This won't make sense until you have the balls off of course but thought I'd chip in.)

There does appear to be grease leaking from somewhere in your pic. Likely the inner spindle seal?

Nice! All hints and tips are welcome. While OTRAMM’s info/vid are probably the 99% solution, there’s a vid by 6th gear garage that has some good tips on shims and the process in general that is also pretty informative. Here’s hoping the giant village can guide this idiot on this job.

That pic is actually AFTER an hour of simple green and water treatment. I haven’t seen much fresh grease, so I think whatever leaked is probably empty at this point. 😳
 
Just like you I am looking at the same work but mine are the opposite of yours....Moist! Make sure you have an FSM in front of you. I watched a few Youtube videos which helps ; me anyway.
 
What should these knuckles look like? I've seen the greasy mess, but mine look dry like this. The seals were done about 15k ago. There is clean gray moly grease inside them. Just dry balls.
 
oh yea and a digital torque wrench, all those bolts need to go back on to torque spec. sip a beer, n double check your work.
 
Got the FSM, the lists, the pdf, the youtube, and beers. Alas, I’ve but an old mechanical torque wrench that clicks. (I’m a torque spec nerd. I can’t help it.)
 
Got the FSM, the lists, the pdf, the youtube, and beers. Alas, I’ve but an old mechanical torque wrench that clicks. (I’m a torque spec nerd. I can’t help it.)
Sounds like you’re good to go. Got a covered area to work? Looks like rain this weekend.
 
Sounds like you’re good to go. Got a covered area to work? Looks like rain this weekend.

Oh man, this is a month down the road project! I’m on a work trip for another week or so, sitting in Asia right now. She’s gonna get disassembled in the garage when it’s time - the issue will be cleaning parts.

They need a lot of work, what do people do with all of this goop? (Three different answers on disposal from three different folks at the local autozone)
 
Oh man, this is a month down the road project! I’m on a work trip for another week or so, sitting in Asia right now. She’s gonna get disassembled in the garage when it’s time - the issue will be cleaning parts.

They need a lot of work, what do people do with all of this goop? (Three different answers on disposal from three different folks at the local autozone)
I just throw the grease covered rags in the garbage. Diff oil (and any other oil) goes into a big barrel that I dump in a public oil collection vat the county has scattered around. I’ve never utilized them, but the auto parts stores say they take waste fluids.
 
Will do! The only guy that seems like he actually knows what he’s talking about at the parts store says anything petroleum based is good to dump. That should cover everything I have on tap for now, but I’ll ask about OK county, that’s a good idea.
 
Apparently it is advised to swap the small set screws if you are not running selectable hubs:

 
If you want, give me a holler when you go to do this project. I stay pretty busy, but if I don’t have anything going on I can come give a hand. I think I heard “beer” mentioned :hillbilly:
 
If you want, give me a holler when you go to do this project. I stay pretty busy, but if I don’t have anything going on I can come give a hand. I think I heard “beer” mentioned :hillbilly:

That would be awesome if it worked out, and yes - I speak beer. 😀

It will probably be a bit as I collect parts but we’ll see what works out!
 
Oh man, this is a month down the road project! I’m on a work trip for another week or so, sitting in Asia right now. She’s gonna get disassembled in the garage when it’s time - the issue will be cleaning parts.

They need a lot of work, what do people do with all of this goop? (Three different answers on disposal from three different folks at the local autozone)
I believe any landfill would be okay. It isn't a RCRA waste, I believe it falls under TSCA
 

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