ARCHIVE Knuckle Studs- Toyota finally has their decision concerning thread locker...

[OGBeno]

I'm trying to avoid this, but I came off "Top Of The World" two years ago at Cruise Moab with one hell of a pull that wasn't there 4 hours earlier.

I’m all about saving time and not backing the possibly many people behind me whom might be waiting for me to fix my junk.

That’s rude and disrespectful to others on the trail.

I can swap a knuckle out in 10 mins. Drilling a stud out could be 40 mins or more. That’s inefficient and a waste of time. Drilling out studs is for the vice in the garage.

 

[Grandlooser]

Someone needs to fab up a PTO drive to mount a Bridgeport milling head on the front bumper. Would probably save a few hundred pounds considering what some folks bring with them.

 

[landtank]

I’m all about saving time and not backing the possibly many people behind me whom might be waiting for me to fix my junk.

That’s rude and disrespectful to others on the trail.

I can swap a knuckle out in 10 mins. Drilling a stud out could be 40 mins or more. That’s inefficient and a waste of time. Drilling out studs is for the vice in the garage.

I look at trail breaks as part of the experience. The only time I get perturbed is if it's blatantly obvious the owner put zero effort into avoiding a failure. That usually results in some smart ass comments.

 

[baldilocks]

I look at trail breaks as part of the experience. The only time I get perturbed is if it's blatantly obvious the owner put zero effort into avoiding a failure. That usually results in some smart ass comments.

I appreciate those who block the trail as short a time as possible as much as the next guy. I’ve had my day ruined by those who make a beer drinking party out of a simple axle shaft replacement. Stuff happens and loctite isn’t the savior. Nothing trumps regular maintenance and we all know that knuckle studs should be rechecked at the end of each rock bashing day. In my job things like this are inspected regularly and marked with tattletale goop for quick ID of fasteners that may have lost the applied torque. I installed ARP studs minus the included red thread sealer and then put a mark on the forward facing side of each stud. This tells me if the stud has rotated either way. Finding nuts slightly loose isn’t uncommon and no big deal to me because I’m a maintenance freak but I don’t want the studs rotating in the knuckle. I put these Tattletale marks on other places as well. My experience with Toyota knuckle studs may be less than other folks but it’s been all positive.

 

[cruisermatt]

this is why I've taken to wheeling alone, no one to be upset at me when I break parts

I like these new knuckle studs, especially the few extra threads.

 

[Grandlooser]

this is why I've taken to wheeling alone, no one to be upset at me when I break parts

I like these new knuckle studs, especially the few extra threads.

I was going to say. As much as I would like to wheel out west some day, I'm sure glad as hell there's no freaking waiting line on the trails where I go.

 

[merbesfield]

So to be clear, are you guys saying you like these studs with factory applied green thread lock or you don't like them? I seems from above comments there are some of both. I am assuming for a rig like the 71 we are building, which will see little to no heavy trails, it really doesn't matter which ones we use. However, I think I read somewhere it is recommended to always use NEW studs and cone washers. What say you guys? thx, Mark

 

[NLXTACY]

So to be clear, are you guys saying you like these studs with factory applied green thread lock or you don't like them? I seems from above comments there are some of both. I am assuming for a rig like the 71 we are building, which will see little to no heavy trails, it really doesn't matter which ones we use. However, I think I read somewhere it is recommended to always use NEW studs and cone washers. What say you guys? thx, Mark

Use the new studs when you need to. No need to pre-emptively do it if your current hardware is holding fine. The green is the lowest strength loctite made.
Edit: i knew what I meant in my head. Green is med-High strength.

 

[merbesfield]

Use the new studs when you need to. No need to pre-emptively do it if your current hardware is holding fine. The green is the lowest strength loctite made.

I am rebuilding the 71 using later model knuckles to convert it to disc brakes. The old studs and hardware are from the drum brake axle so figuring new hardware is easier than using the old stuff so was wondering if I should use the newer style. Thanks

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Use the new studs when you need to. No need to pre-emptively do it if your current hardware is holding fine. The green is the lowest strength loctite made.

To be clear, this implementation of Toyota's green is weak. Do NOT use Henkel/Loctite Green - you'll never get that joint apart.

 

[merbesfield]

To be clear, this implementation of Toyota's green is weak. Do NOT use Henkel/Loctite Green - you'll never get that joint apart.

That is a good clarification to make. We use Locktite Green on some of our construction equipment and that stuff is meant to never come apart.

 

[serenity]

@Onur do you know if there is a recommended torque setting for installing the studs into the housing?

 

[cruisermatt]

@Onur do you know if there is a recommended torque setting for installing the studs into the housing?

What did your FSM say?

 

[alia176]

What did your FSM say?

This is one number that doesn't exist in the FSM. @cruiserdan might've come up with a number in the past, if I recall correctly.

 

[NLXTACY]

This is one number that doesn't exist in the FSM. @cruiserdan might've come up with a number in the past, if I recall correctly.

I’m sure there is a number that is a comfortable number to use but given the fact that it uses the shoulder to stop vs using a flat relying on clamping force is why there isn’t a stated spec. Just get it snug.

 

[cruisermatt]

This is one number that doesn't exist in the FSM. @cruiserdan might've come up with a number in the past, if I recall correctly.

I know it’s not in the FSM, which was my point. Just install and move on

 

[OGBeno]

 

[cruiserdan]

Or......take it up until just before it snaps off flush with the knuckle.

 

[BILT4ME]

Or......take it up until just before it snaps off flush with the knuckle.

Tighten it down until it breaks off, then back it off 1/2 turn.

 

[BILT4ME]

View attachment 2800167

That's the first I've seen anything published with any numbers associated.

Thank you!