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knuckle shims?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by 97cruiser, Oct 28, 2003.

  1. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    So whats the concensus on replacing these during a full knuckle rebuild ? I 'm hoping you all say just reuse the old ones in the same orientation you removed them . If I do have to replace them how do you measure how many to use ? By feel ? Actually measure distance ?

    Sorry if this has been addressed already but I couldn't find it in any of the write-ups or archives , at least not in detail .

    Thnx , Vince
     
  2. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr

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    On the last 3 knuckle rebuilds I have done I just reused the old shims, and the knuckle preloads worked out within spec.

    -H-
     
  3. bjowett

    bjowett Supporting Vendor

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    You can put it all back together with the originals, then measure the preload with lb/inch spring scale. I think Toyota sells the shims in .005 .002 and .001 (please correct me if those are wrong) as you can get just about any adjustment you need by stacking the various thicknesses. For example (to put simply) say there is a single .005 in there, and when you bolt it all back together and torque in down, there is not enough preload, you will remove the .005 and place two .002 in there to get a .004, retorque and see if the preload has increased to spec.
     
  4. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    They're not designed for shims on both top and bottom like prior models, and the shims merely account for minor manufacturing variations that would continue with fresh bearings. I bought the shim kit when I repacked my birfs a while back, and am experimenting with a *slight* axle realignment as my inner axle seal on DS was worn offcenter. In a couple years, I'll know what degree of success I had when I'm back in there again.

    Doug
     
  5. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    So basicly , as long as this is just preventative maintenance there should be no need for new shims ?
    Assuming there is no structural damage to the knuckle and you are simply replacing old trunion bearings with new ?
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Shim replacement is not common. When I swapped front housings a while back I went back togther with the original shims and the pre-load was right on.


    D-
     
  7. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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  8. Safado

    Safado

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    Revisiting an old question to C-Dan and Beo,

    So when I was rebuilding my axle, I couldn't get the preset hi enough on the DS. I just torqued the adjusting nut more until I was able to get it. Haven't driven it but maybe 3-5 miles. Should I have replaced these "shims", or added some? What exactly are they and where do they go?

    Thanks
     
  9. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    The shims are illustrated in the following. Diagram number 43233 represent the various thicknesses available.

    [​IMG]

    Their purpose is to set the preload on the knuckle bearings. Most people put the original shims back in and hope for the best. Some do the spring scale check if they removed the tie rods.

    -B-
     
  10. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    The shims are P/N 43233 in the picture above.

    Doug
     
  11. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Actually not a part number, rather a PNC or Part Name Code. That is the pointer to the appropriate spot in the catalog text where the actual part number is listed. In some cases illustrations do have complete 10 or 12 digit part numbers listed. These numbers are not reflected in the text.

    Catalog lesson over :rolleyes:


    :beer:D-
     
  12. Safado

    Safado

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    Ohhh...those were the ones I didn't replace. :D Should I have? :whoops: So those rub the top and bottom of the birfield right? If they were significantly worn, would that have possibly caused how the preload problem that I had on the DS? Thanks again...man I'm such a pain in the a$$!!!
     
  13. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Safedo,

    From the smilies, I'm not sure if you're joking or not. If you're not joking, then yes that would likely (very) cause a problem with the preload of the knuckle/trunion bearings. Not putting the stock spacer(s) back on would cause the top cap to place too much pressure on the top bearing when it is torqued down. The top cap settles lower into the knuckle, pushing it slightly away from the tip of the axle housing. This will lift the knuckle relative to the axle housing and cause the axle shaft itself to run more heavily against the axle seal.

    Not sure if this is more info than you wanted to know but the good news is it's not too much trouble to correct, depending on how long you've been driving it. Just remove the DS tire, remove the top cap bolts and put the shim back in if it hasn't been very long. How long has it been this way? (whups, forgot to add that these shims don't touch the birf or sustain any wear whatsoever).
     
  14. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    >> would that have possibly caused how the preload problem that I had on the DS? <<

    No, different bearings. You were setting the pre-load on the wheel bearings. The shims are for the knuckle/trunion bearings.

    -B-