knuckle rebuild questions (1 Viewer)

[CruiserHappy]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding the drivers side knuckle before I do the other side and have a few questions

1. On the top of the knuckle the bearing had 2 shims, the bottom had only 1. Should I be concerned?
2. what type of paint do you recommend i use after I clean all the grime off?

 

[Spike Strip]

Keep track of the number of shims and where they are placed. Put back in exact configuration. They are there to center the knuckle housing around the axle shaft. It's possible though they're out of order if the knuckles have been previously rebuilt. Number and top/bottom will vary.

You're using Marlin Seals for replacements? Yes?

Any good paint will do, but I used POR 15.

 

[CruiserHappy]

Keep track of the number of shims and where they are placed. Put back in exact configuration. They are there to center the knuckle housing around the axle shaft. It's possible though they're out of order if the knuckles have been previously rebuilt. Number and top/bottom will vary.

You're using Marlin Seals for replacements? Yes?

Any good paint will do, but I used POR 15.

I have kept track and they are bagged seperatly and marked. I can't tell if they have been rebuilt but don't believe so.

Using valley hybrid tool to drive in my marlin seals so yes

I have some POR 15 on the shelf so I'll get it done.

Thanks for the help!

 

[CruiserHappy]

I finally have the knuckle on after all the cleaning, and painting. I have it torqued to specs, when I do the pull test with the fish scale I come out either right at 3kg or just under.... Do I need to add a shim?

 

[Output Shaft]

Don't add a shim.
If you're right at the lower limit, you're good. Adding shimS will make the preload too tight.
You would have to add two identical shims top & bottom to keep the knuckle centered and I doubt there is a thin enough shim made that can bump up the preload to keep it under 6kg starting at 3.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

@Output Shaft I think you mis-spoke. If you add a shim, you DECREASE preload.

 

[CruiserHappy]

Thanks!

 

[Output Shaft]

@Output Shaft I think you mis-spoke. If you add a shim, you DECREASE preload.

YOU'RE RIGHT! Doh!
(crossed it out)

 

[4david]

What's the approximate cost havibg a pro do it?

 

[Jaric00n]

too much?

 

[CaptClose]

What's the approximate cost havibg a pro do it?

A little money and a whole lotta self respect, pride and that feeling of jubilation.

 

[CruiserHappy]

What's the approximate cost havibg a pro do it?

I'm not sure, honestly I don't trust too many other people to work on my cars, and those I trust I can't afford to pay, lol

 

[Texascruisin]

What's the approximate cost havibg a pro do it?

I had a landcruiser shop quote me around $1000. So I learned something instead.

 

[4david]

Is it one of those things you would only trust to a LC specific shop?

 

[MANUCHAO]

^^^YES....!!!

 

[CaptClose]

I had a landcruiser shop quote me around $1000. So I learned something instead.

What a rip off. I would have done it for $950

Seriously though, it's a dirty job, but not difficult. Follow the FSM step by step and don't forget to replace your wheel bearings while you're in there.

 

[Jaric00n]

I am about to do it myself , and it doesn;t look daunting at all, just make sure you have the FSm and appropriate parts and tools and you should be just fine

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I guess the point is, it's a time consuming job. So a professional shop, paying for things like space, insurance, electricity, quality parts and other overhead, has to charge a lot for it. It isn't a rip-off.

I have heard that most shops are in the $1000-$1500 range.

But this is an ideal do it yourself project, because technically it's easy, and the parts themselves are only $150 or so. You just need a full weekend and some patience. And another car to drive if you find unexpected problems.