Knuckle Rebuild Kit

[shotfun]

Hey there all, im going to do my front axle and have come across a ton of info while searching. Can anyone recommend their favorite rebuild kit along with any pros and cons? thanks in advance.

 

[g-man]

Assuming you mean a Knuckle rebuild? Call Cruiser Outfitters, they can get you exactly what you need. Do you know what tools and supplies you'll need?

 

[Gretsch]

Assuming you mean a Knuckle rebuild? Call Cruiser Outfitters, they can get you exactly what you need. Do you know what tools and supplies you'll need?

This is the correct answer. Call Kurt and all your problems will be solved. Joking but seriously call Cruiser Outfitters, at least for knuckle rebuild parts. Its as painless as can be. His kit includes everything needed and he can include either the OEM inner axle seals or the Marlin ECO seals if you prefer. Not sure your situation but if you don't have it the 54MM socket can be sourced from him. If you want to replace the brake rotors while you do this Kurt can source those too. If doing that you may want to source the wheel studs from CO as well. Good idea to replace from what I am told. In the middle of this right now using a CO rebuild kit. HTH.

 

[3_puppies]

get the "kit" from either:
Kurt @ @cruiseroutfit
or
Georg @ cruiserbrothers @orangefj45
both will treat you very well
use Marlin heavy seal

 

[shotfun]

Assuming you mean a Knuckle rebuild? Call Cruiser Outfitters, they can get you exactly what you need. Do you know what tools and supplies you'll need?

Yeah. Knuckle. SOrry bout that. I’m not going’s to do anything but the knuckles. I’ve got the basics as far as tools go but I have to grab job specific ones as well. IE I have torques , ratchets and a garage that’s about a 3 out of 10 in regards to being outfitted. This gives me a reason to start buying more tools.

 

[shotfun]

This is the correct answer. Call Kurt and all your problems will be solved. Joking but seriously call Cruiser Outfitters, at least for knuckle rebuild parts. Its as painless as can be. His kit includes everything needed and he can include either the OEM inner axle seals or the Marlin ECO seals if you prefer. Not sure your situation but if you don't have it the 54MM socket can be sourced from him. If you want to replace the brake rotors while you do this Kurt can source those too. If doing that you may want to source the wheel studs from CO as well. Good idea to replace from what I am told. In the middle of this right now using a CO rebuild kit. HTH.

Thanks so much. Great info. Appreciate your time.

 

[shotfun]

get the "kit" from either:
Kurt @ @cruiseroutfit
or
Georg @ cruiserbrothers @orangefj45
both will treat you very well
use Marlin heavy seal

Thanks for the info. Appreciate it

 

[Nostradamus]

get the "kit" from either:
Kurt @ @cruiseroutfit
or
Georg @ cruiserbrothers @orangefj45
both will treat you very well
use Marlin heavy seal

+1 on the Marlin seals. I'm going on 4 years since I did mine and everything is still high and tight...

 

[g-man]

You'll need external snap ring pliers with angled tips to remove the snap ring looks like this:

 

[g-man]

Also 10, 12, 14, 17 mm sockets and 19 or 21 for the king nut on the tie rod end of the knuckle. A torque wrench, A brass drift to knock the cup washers loose and a tapered drift to knock out the trunion races, A tub of wheel bearing grease for the wheel hub, some moly grease for the knuckle, a box of latex or nitrile gloves, about 4 rolls of paper towels, a 2 inch pipe about 10 to 12 inches long to drive the new axle seals, or a long drift. Read over the body and chassis fsm for the procedure and to get your torque specs, and watch a few videos in the FAQ section. If you don't have a seal puller a long thin pry bar will get the axle seals out. Keep your knuckle shims in order.. Don't get them mixed up they need to go back the same way to keep the knuckle centered. A spring fish scale helps to determine pre-load on the knuckle and wheel hub.

 

[shotfun]

Also 10, 12, 14, 17 mm sockets and 19 or 21 for the king nut on the tie rod end of the knuckle. A torque wrench, A brass drift to knock the cup washers loose and a tapered drift to knock out the trunion races, A tub of wheel bearing grease for the wheel hub, some moly grease for the knuckle, a box of latex or nitrile gloves, about 4 rolls of paper towels, a 2 inch pipe about 10 to 12 inches long to drive the new axle seals, or a long drift. Read over the body and chassis fsm for the procedure and to get your torque specs, and watch a few videos in the FAQ section. If you don't have a seal puller a long thin pry bar will get the axle seals out. Keep your knuckle shims in order.. Don't get them mixed up they need to go back the same way to keep the knuckle centered. A spring fish scale helps to determine pre-load on the knuckle and wheel hub.

so this is the exploded image from the proper manual right? the next image is the tension gauge which should be at 6.6 to 13.2?

ill need the drifts and thats about it. oh...ill grab a seal puller. thanks a bunch

 

[g-man]

picture "F" shows a tension gauge on the knuckle centering tool . It is the same preload tension you will test at the third arm before installing on the tie rod end.

 

[bottombracket]

These videos from @OTRAMM are a lifesaver.

 

[shotfun]

These videos from @OTRAMM are a lifesaver.

Thanks so much. This is what I needed. Life saver

 

[g-man]

I think the gasket pictured above (post #11) between the dust cover and the dust seal actually goes on the other side of the dust cover. I believe this because it has a loop in the bottom that corresponds with a drain slot in the spindle. Also because in "B" of this step it says to put on the gasket, dust cover, and seal. (I assume in that order)

also because Cruiser outfitters says here :between the backing plate (aka dust cover) and the spindle....

Brake Backing Plate Gasket- $5.50 each Between brake backing plate and spindle One required per side, 2 per axle (Fits 69-9/75' FJ40/55) Part# HG60010 Brake Backing Plate Gasket - $5.50 each Between brake backing plate and spindle One required per side, 2 per axle (Fits 9/75'-97' FJ40/55/60/62/80) Part# HG60011

 

[g-man]

In Otramm's reassembly video he installs it between the dust cover and the dust seal like the image of the blow up schematic.

 

[Gretsch]

I did mine like above and like the FSM. Seems there should be a seal between the dust cover and spindle though and the cut out in the seals seems to make sense. Not sure which is correct but when in doubt I follow FSM.

 

[g-man]

I did mine like above and like the FSM. Seems there should be a seal between the dust cover and spindle though and the cut out in the seals seems to make sense. Not sure which is correct but when in doubt I follow FSM.

This is why I bring this up. I think the image of the schematic is confusing. The FSM literally says to install: the gasket, the dust cover, the dust seal. (and I assume in that order)

 

[Cruzerman]

While those fancy snap ring pliers aren't necessary, they are nice. Same for the seal puller and the race driver set. Makes life easier. Not a fan of the fish scale those. I leave that in the tackle box.

 

[Gretsch]

This is why I bring this up. I think the image of the schematic is confusing. The FSM literally says to install: the gasket, the dust cover, the dust seal. (and I assume in that order)

Yeah when I say I followed the FSM, I guess I really mean I followed the schematic. I just looked at the picture to make sure I put these on correctly based on the picture. I found it odd however there was not a gasket between the dust cover and the spindle in the diagram. But it seems equally incorrect not to have a seal between the dust cover and the Hub dust seal. So anyone know which way is correct? The schematic or the FSM steps? I am right in the middle of doing this work and am still at the point where I can change this if needed. Any further and it will be a PITA to fix.