Knoob Knuckles (or maybe just rear axles and brakes 4X)

[landcruiser3DP]

oh. parts in the ultrasonic.
i used milk crates to keep the parts organized left to right. also i bought this tin at goodwill when i scored a couple heavily curved spatulas in case i needed to do knuckles. i really like it. today i found out it sits safely in the top of a milk crate which is kind of a bonus.
the ultrasonic i bought them i went rooting sound for one and found a couple rebranded bransonics for sale from a guy in connecticut. i guess they were made by bransonic but had to have a different name for some corporate reason. the guy couldn't sell them so he unloaded when cheap.
i bought the three he had and listed the large one and the smaller one. i sort of feel like i should have kept she large one but i don't have room for it. anyway this one ended up being free. some university of pennsylvania lab bought the small one off ebay.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

day 3: cut the second pair of races, picked up the front brake pad anti-squeal shims and picked up some tube to drive the old races i'm using as drivers for the new races.

so i forgot to order the anti squeal shims for front and rear so i bought those yesterday from the dealer and the fronts came in today. i also bought four wear maker deals. anyway the fronts came in today so i picked those up because i'm doing the front axles first.
i also cut the other pair of bearing races for the hubs to use as drivers since i still haven't thrown down and bought a seal/race driver kit.
i tested the races i have in the freezer inside the hub just to see if they would slip right in. they don't but i think they will go in nicely by putting them in the freezer without really having to drive them unless i am missing something.
anyway i went looking for something to be able to drive the old races i am using as drivers deep enough to seat the new ones.
i found this old idle pulley that i took out when i had to do my AC and two alternator belts. it seems like a perfect fit for driving the smaller outer bearing race if i use the two old races that i cut to get them to fit for use as drivers.
so i rooted around for something to fit the larger inner races and i couldn't find anything and ran over to the metro supply place here in town.
i couldn't find anything in the Schedule 40 steel section but found some 3" OD 1/8" wall 6063 aluminum tube that seems like it will do the trick. the race itself is 4 1/4" (82mm) OD.
the 3" pipe i got is a little small but after kind of going back and forth on whether it would work i realized i could flip flop the old races that i cut and be driving those from the fat end with this pipe.
the issue is it slips about half way down into the thin side of the race which is the side i need to drive in but since i am using the old races to drive the new one i can flip those upside down.
so i think 2" of this is going to work.
i gave the guy a fiver because they like cash and the cut fee is $5 and pick it up tomorrow.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

cutting the second pair of races and more ultrasonic.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

finding drivers for rhe old split races that i'll use to drive the new races and test fitting the frozen races.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

the large (new) race is 3 1/4" (82mm) OD.
the driver i got is 2" of 3" OD 1/8" wall 6063 aluminum round tube.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here are the front brake anti squeal shims and inner anti squeal shims. they come with the toyota lube. the old brakes that came off didn't have the inners and also they were kind of gnarly.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

OK so i picked up the second part of my shim order. i seem to have only gotten the clips or something when i ordered from ourisman because they don't show pictures for this stuff and it was hard to know what you were getting.
anyway i admit i still find it confusing.
the front brakes get FOUR shims per side. two on each side are what they call "inner shims" and these are perforated.
the kit also comes with some heavy copper grease. i guess form the diagram they are saying to put it on both sides of the inner perforated shim? but also on the reteining pins i guess?
then i can't tell if they are saying to put some on the piston feces on new calipers or if the diagram is only saying to put this stuff there on a caliper rebuild.
also i need to find a pic of the packet to see if it is what the FSM is calling "glycol" grease.
the other thing that is confusing is the parts manager gave me some grease from the shop because he said it only comes in a big container and this stuff was white. same consistency but definitely white.
the third thing that is confusing is the REAR shims only have one shim per side and this part does not come with any grease.
so i hit orielly and they had three different brands of grease in three different aisles.
so i'm not sure if i can use any of these in the rears. or if it is even right because someone posted a pic of this permatex stuff for brakes and this makes it seem like it is lubricant.
so i'm not totally sure if you grease the shims and also grease the pins and the rubber inner piston and if any of these three will work for that?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's a pic of the front shims getting the grease that comes with them. also a pic of the two little packets that came with the eight front shims.
then a pic of the white stuff the parts manager gave me. and a pic of the tro shims for the rears that didn't come with any grease.
also there are some clips in that pic or maybe they are the wear clips. i need do check.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hmmm. looks like the stuff that came with the front shims is Molycote and it's the WHITE arrow.
and the two rear shims don't come with it because they don't tell you to put it on the rears.
do i need to put that glycol based stuff on the pins and the rubber at the pistons?
so maybe i need to check NAPA for brake lubricant because oriellys only seemed to have - grease?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's where i pulled the bearings in pairs out of the freezer and drove them in. i'd work on concrete for this.
i found i only needed one old race and the die pulley for the small ones. i just used an east wing hammer for it. i used the fat part of the used race to make contact with the thin part (facing up) of the new race. so i just kept whacking the thin side of the old race. then i put the idle pulley on and hammered that.
for the big races i used two old races with the same fat part driving the new race. once you use one race you should be flush with the hub so use the second old race to hammer the first so you can gear that it is fully driven.
i didn't need that aluminum piece after all.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i drive the seals (rubber lip faces up) using a block of hardwood. it must have been dry from sitting around forever or i don't know what but it splintered on the second one.
then i grabbed a piece and stood it on its end thinking to hammer the seal in and of course it dented. i was able to pull it out a bit but i'd actually find a metal driver for this next time. wood just seem kind of not ideal for driving this seal to me.
they get kind of a round mound of wheel bearing grease inside the hollow part of the hub. i just squeezed some on and packed it in with gloved hands.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i got some advice on where to put jackstands up in the rear and lifted from under the pumpkin and squeezed one in here. then i went closer to drivers side on the axle and squeezed on in over there. definitely not a lot of room up there.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

in the rear there is like a caliper and an adapter. they take two bolts each and come off.
then the nuts and washers at the hub for the cone nuts. i guess there are also bolts for the studs on the hub that poke through the rotor.
then to get the cone deals off i put a brass mallet up against the stud and hammer that with a little brass hammer. worked great.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

there's three bolt looking desks with a slot that are integral to the fully round lock nut. you don't touch these.
you do want to remove the two phillips head bolts. mine weren't going anywhere so i got my impact or whatever i call this puppy and made sure to use a properly sized bit for it.
my working theory - since both round lock "nuts" were loose is that they "unwound" counterclockwise and this moved the two phillips head bolts backwards that act as "stakes" through that fixed "lipped" washer. so the stake bolts were bound up against the washer.
i'm thinking i could have tightened that lock washer a scooch and the phillips heads might have come off easier.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's earlier where you take your two m8 x 1.25 boots and loosen the axle. i missed the step where i pulled the axles.
you got to get a pan up in there to catch any oil that leaks out the spindle.
i scrubbed them up real good.
also a quick pic of when i was removing the gasket from the axle. i found putting it over my shoulder was best and using a bunch of sharp blades. i find the longer ones that break off are more flexible and work better because you can kind of get them to ride flush with the surface even when you force it down. it's hard to explain but gasket was on there result giid and i decided to finish them up later inside in the air conditioning.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i used a hooked pick to pull that locked washer and to pull the bearing.
the right rear hub and rotor came off fine (this was the one that had some sort of liquid in it) but the left rear was stuck. someone finally gave me a heads up to check and it turns out i put the ebrake on which is a no no i think the FSM mentions.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

cleaning up the hubs. that right hub kept getting stuck in the rotor. i don't know why but if i put it in to clean it or get that seal out i'd have to hammer it out with a brass hammer.
i found if i dropped them in the rotor and stood it up sideways and held it with my leg i could get purchase to pull the old seal outward. it was a pita to try to "rock" it out facing up with the puller. on the side let me yank outward more somehow.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i undid these four bolts back here initially. i think they all hold that dust cover assembly that holds the ebrake.
anyway i put some antiseize on them snd tightened them back up when i realized i would have to unhook a bunch of stuff on the brake to remove it.
it kind of sucks that you have to get back in here to do the braker but it is what it is.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

day 4 (100dF, about 97% RH then it rained hard followed by lightning so i packed it in). here's the hubs as of late last night. i was happy to get where i got but it was a long day with a bunch of jumping around due to temporary problems or minor dead ends.
also someone clued me into the fact i could grease and adjust the e brake assembly back here without doing a full rebuild (which i wasn't going to do) so i studied up on it over breakfast this morning.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

someone also recently clued me into the fact these guys did breakfast so i checked it out.