Yeah I'm curious if newer rigs have a different FIPG and so aren't subject to this issue, or if it's just age related. I've got 149k miles on the truck now.
Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)
- Thread starter cc93cruiser
- Start date
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I ran across a well-done YouTube video that walks you through many of the steps, up to the point where the SAIS valves have come out. It's on a Tundra, but it will give you some confidence in knowing some of the steps involved. Just skip over the parts about the SAIS pumps in the first 28 minutes. Disregard the part about leaving the throttle body coolant hoses attached, as you'll want to drain the coolant anyway. Minutes 28 through 45 are the heart of the action.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I had the coolant replaced at 75k when the radiator went. Haven’t touched it since. I’ll see when I get the truck back today - I assume they drained and replaced the coolant to do the service but maybe they only drained off enough to remove the valley plate on top?
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I know you meticulously performed pm.
I would assume they probably drained and used new Sllc coolant. Would frequent drain and fills of coolant help mitigate this lengthy repair.
Has one tested ph of the coolant.
I also had my radiator, water pump, most components replaced at 85k. There was two gallons of Sllc used. I am at 154k miles. I have coolant and drain scheduled for next week.
I would assume they probably drained and used new Sllc coolant. Would frequent drain and fills of coolant help mitigate this lengthy repair.
Has one tested ph of the coolant.
I also had my radiator, water pump, most components replaced at 85k. There was two gallons of Sllc used. I am at 154k miles. I have coolant and drain scheduled for next week.
Tim's videos have saved me thousands, highly recommend watching and learning from any of his work he puts up on his channel. Haven't seen anything for 200's specifically on there in the past but his 4Runner videos have helped me tremendously on my Tacoma.
They should use new coolant as the maintenance schedule calls for replacement at 100k and every 50k thereafter. At 149k there really isnt an excuse not to as a dealer. I replaced mine at 100k, still have a while to go before 150k but seems like you all surpassed the 50k mark with no issues? Maybe not as necessary to half the maintenance interval?
They should use new coolant as the maintenance schedule calls for replacement at 100k and every 50k thereafter. At 149k there really isnt an excuse not to as a dealer. I replaced mine at 100k, still have a while to go before 150k but seems like you all surpassed the 50k mark with no issues? Maybe not as necessary to half the maintenance interval?
I doubt changing coolant more frequently really solves this. I think I read the FIPG changed at some point and the newer material is supposed to resolve the eventual leaks that can happen. Who knows?
Repair was $1430 with parts, including 2 gal of coolant. Another $44 for the knock sensor wiring harness. So I’m flushed and good to 200k I guess.
Total bill was a hair over $2k but I had a 12 qt A/T fluid exchange, oil, tire rotation, driveshaft greasing, and front diff service. Actually not bad considering they quoted $1400 for labor alone, yet only charged me $1280 for the labor. How many dealers charge less than quoted?
Had this leak back in 2020 and did the costly repair.
Link to my old thread with photos of the leak:
forum.ih8mud.com
Fast forward now (around 80-90k km later), found the coolant a bit lower than the middle mark between F and L on the reservoir tank, really hoping it does not repeat all over again. No other symptoms or visible leaks on the ground or smoke. Will monitor it next few days before taking it up to the dealer. fingers crossed.
Link to my old thread with photos of the leak:
Coolant leak, probably at heat exchanger
Hi guys, while doing my 140k kms service,they caught a coolant leak. Coolant was low so did a pressure test as it was not dropping externally. Attaching the pictures. what do you guys think? Its a 2014 vxr V8 4.6L,GCC specs. URJ202L
forum.ih8mud.com
Fast forward now (around 80-90k km later), found the coolant a bit lower than the middle mark between F and L on the reservoir tank, really hoping it does not repeat all over again. No other symptoms or visible leaks on the ground or smoke. Will monitor it next few days before taking it up to the dealer. fingers crossed.
Coolant level can vary a bit in the overflow tank as it expands and contracts with heat/pressure. Between F and L is fine when it's cold.Had this leak back in 2020 and did the costly repair.
Link to my old thread with photos of the leak:
Coolant leak, probably at heat exchanger
Hi guys, while doing my 140k kms service,they caught a coolant leak. Coolant was low so did a pressure test as it was not dropping externally. Attaching the pictures. what do you guys think? Its a 2014 vxr V8 4.6L,GCC specs. URJ202L
Fast forward now (around 80-90k km later), found the coolant a bit lower than the middle mark between F and L on the reservoir tank, really hoping it does not repeat all over again. No other symptoms or visible leaks on the ground or smoke. Will monitor it next few days before taking it up to the dealer. fingers crossed.
If it drops below L I would lay underneath the front doors and shine a flashlight around the transmission housing. That's how I found my leak.
Thankyou and here is the belated update.
Nextday the coolant in reservoir tank disappeared completly.
then checked main radiator tank, there was coolant in it, and found the radiator cap broken (should ve checked it in first place).
Replaced it, topped up the coolant, did a pressure test along with a cylinder compression test just to be sure, everything turned out to be normal. No leaks anywhere.
I am doing this job this weekend. I have everything apart and going to clean the surfaces very good and put everything back together in the morning. The only problem I have run into is either I dropped the gaskets or the Secondary Air Valves or there weren't any there. I cant find where they could have dropped. I am going to look again in the morning and then try to find them at one of the local dealers. Does anyone know the part? I took it apart from the wheel well on the passenger side and the normal place on driver side.
On a side note, the crevice in the front under the tube was nasty. It was thick like molasses with chunks in it. I used have a roll of blue paper towels getting all of that junk out.
On a side note, the crevice in the front under the tube was nasty. It was thick like molasses with chunks in it. I used have a roll of blue paper towels getting all of that junk out.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
Well, today was my turn. 116k. Took off today and tomorrow to take my time. I will say I did not budget myself enough time to clean up all the crusted coolant. The seal that was on it was grey and the FIPG I used was black. Hope it lasts longer. I'm doing the water pump, fan bracket, idler, and tensioner while I'm in there. Should be good for quite a while when I'm done.
I fear that if you used regular FIPG and not the 100 bucks a tube stuff that you'll be doing this again before long.
My thought too. Black is for engine oil.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
I was dealing with a Lexus dealer that supplies parts to the body shop my father in law runs. I told them it called for the 1282B. The guy said that wasn’t used any longer and what he sent was what they used on the job. I guess we’ll see. It’s back together and seems to be holding so far.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
Don't be like me, kids. Remember your insulation.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
Great music selection.
HburgEagle
SILVER Star
Cuts deep that it was the "Solid Gold Hits" playlist on Apple Music.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Just did this crap job - id absolutely recommend reinstalling the coolant pipe before reinstalling the plate cover. Generous coolant around the o-rings and it goes in quite nicely.
I've been deferring fixing the valley leak in my LX for awhile now for various reasons. But I think it's finally time to get it done. It's been awhile since I've read through the various threads on this. I could use some inputs on what I think I've gleaned from them re: what to do - please help with any corrections or updates that I may have missed. I'm not capable so I'm going to have a shop do the work; I just want to make sure I'm explicit with some key points.
1. Have the shop use gasket compound 1282b (08826-00100), black rubbery compound vs what may be the factory default grey compound.
2. Replace the manifold gasket as well (17171-0S030); don't reuse the existing gaskets
3. Replace the PCV valve (12204-38010), union pipe o-rings (96761-35035), and PCV separator gasket (12273-38020)
4. Clean 3 radiators (A/T oil cooler, AC condenser, Engine) fins.
5. Replace the thermostat, serpentine belt and radiator cap. I've got 120K miles. 2nd owner and not sure if the thermostat has been replaced before. Actually, I've had the water pump and belt replaced I think (several years ago). Perhaps the thermostat was replaced at that time as well.
6. I'm not really clear on this one -- replace SAI SW BK1 and BK2 (not sure what these parts are). SAI pumps (including the internal filter)? Is this really necessary; I got the impression that it's expensive and may not be necessary (perhaps just recommended if appropriate?)
Anything listed that is incorrect, not necessary or not advised? Anything missing? Thanks!
1. Have the shop use gasket compound 1282b (08826-00100), black rubbery compound vs what may be the factory default grey compound.
2. Replace the manifold gasket as well (17171-0S030); don't reuse the existing gaskets
3. Replace the PCV valve (12204-38010), union pipe o-rings (96761-35035), and PCV separator gasket (12273-38020)
4. Clean 3 radiators (A/T oil cooler, AC condenser, Engine) fins.
5. Replace the thermostat, serpentine belt and radiator cap. I've got 120K miles. 2nd owner and not sure if the thermostat has been replaced before. Actually, I've had the water pump and belt replaced I think (several years ago). Perhaps the thermostat was replaced at that time as well.
6. I'm not really clear on this one -- replace SAI SW BK1 and BK2 (not sure what these parts are). SAI pumps (including the internal filter)? Is this really necessary; I got the impression that it's expensive and may not be necessary (perhaps just recommended if appropriate?)
Anything listed that is incorrect, not necessary or not advised? Anything missing? Thanks!
