Kids are scared of the clunk.....
- Thread starter WarWagon
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- #22
Well we had everything taken out yesterday when we swapped the u-joints and my mechanic didn't mention it; ugh although I fear that means very little.
Just going to take it to ACC and tell them what's been replaced and also the diff diagnosis by the one shop. The guy sounded very convinced that it was the front diff pinion though! He had it off the ground and was up under while they put it in gear.....didn't take him long to see what the issue was.
Gonna have ACC check the phasing too.
Just going to take it to ACC and tell them what's been replaced and also the diff diagnosis by the one shop. The guy sounded very convinced that it was the front diff pinion though! He had it off the ground and was up under while they put it in gear.....didn't take him long to see what the issue was.
Gonna have ACC check the phasing too.
I have a 91 with the same clunk and I've replaced the u joints more than once. Im starting to believe it is the after market joints. Can the guys who fixed the clunk chime in on using oem or after market and vice versa. Just a thought
Hi, Ours has clunked since all most new ,just got used to it, now 330,000 miles on almost a trouble free cruiser. Mike
Drive flanges.
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- #26
CD....by drive flanges you mean the pinion, right?
I mentioned this several times to the mech that swapped the joints, but he insisted they were good. Then today within five minutes of looking at the front diff when the cruiser was put into gear the other mech said for sure iit was that, the front diff.
He said specifically that the rear locks up as normal but not the front, hence the thud/clunk. He sounded more than sure.
Next move I think is a visit to ACC. Got a call into Emily over there immediately to get a possible diff rebuild estimate.
I mentioned this several times to the mech that swapped the joints, but he insisted they were good. Then today within five minutes of looking at the front diff when the cruiser was put into gear the other mech said for sure iit was that, the front diff.
He said specifically that the rear locks up as normal but not the front, hence the thud/clunk. He sounded more than sure.
Next move I think is a visit to ACC. Got a call into Emily over there immediately to get a possible diff rebuild estimate.
No, I mean drive flanges.
Out at the end of the wheel bearing hubs, under the plactic hub cap. The flanges are splined and go over the ends of the birfields. The flange and birf splines wear, resulting in slop. FJ80s are more prone to do it because they do not have a viscus coupler in the transfer case and the spline interface area is smaller than on the mid 94-up FZJ80. Early flange on the left.
Out at the end of the wheel bearing hubs, under the plactic hub cap. The flanges are splined and go over the ends of the birfields. The flange and birf splines wear, resulting in slop. FJ80s are more prone to do it because they do not have a viscus coupler in the transfer case and the spline interface area is smaller than on the mid 94-up FZJ80. Early flange on the left.
Definitely try new drive flanges if you're committed to chasing this down.
OTOH: This afternoon I locked the center diff. (in HI) on my 92 just for giggles. Clunk 99% gone. That tells me it's accumulated slop rather than isolated to the front or rear.
I have zero problems considering it "normal" on a 91-92.
Christo Slee has even speculated that the main reason the VC was added in 93 was to dampen all the drivetrain slop.
Anyway, good luck, and of course keep us posted.
OTOH: This afternoon I locked the center diff. (in HI) on my 92 just for giggles. Clunk 99% gone. That tells me it's accumulated slop rather than isolated to the front or rear.
I have zero problems considering it "normal" on a 91-92.
Christo Slee has even speculated that the main reason the VC was added in 93 was to dampen all the drivetrain slop.Anyway, good luck, and of course keep us posted.
The VC was added to accomodate ABS. The dampening is a pleasant side effect.
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- #30
Ugh....I kept mentioning the flanges and he kept referencing the pinion, saying "they" must be talking about the pinions which he then said were good. I knew I was right. Very frustrating dealing with probably pretty good mechanics versus cruiser mechanics, ie. ACC etc!
I'm not a mech guy but I'm learning thanks to all the knowledge on this board.
Flanges.......well the PO just had the front knuckles done. Would that make a difference in regards to the flanges?
And the guy at my other shop seemed pretty convinced the front diff wasn't locking up in synch with the rear when put into gear. Can't overlook his assessment.
Thanks.....I hope to figure this out for myself and many others.
I'm not a mech guy but I'm learning thanks to all the knowledge on this board.
Flanges.......well the PO just had the front knuckles done. Would that make a difference in regards to the flanges?
And the guy at my other shop seemed pretty convinced the front diff wasn't locking up in synch with the rear when put into gear. Can't overlook his assessment.
Thanks.....I hope to figure this out for myself and many others.
I can supply them. Any dealer can order them.
powermad
%##@*&^%
All 91 and 92's have the clunk, will always clunk.
Worn parts will make it more pronounced.
It is an all wheel drive system with no viscous coupler to help dampen it.
There are a lot of components in this system that have lash. It's like a stacking of tolerances.
A little bit here, a bit there, more over here and it adds up.
Mine does it when I put it in drive. To mitigate that I back up the drive and pull the e-brake before putting it in park.
Then foot on brake, release the e-brake put it in drive and go forward with no clunk.
It will do it getting on and off the throttle from time to time but not to where I think there is a problem.
Just to be certain I checked.
Control arms.
Drive line slip shafts.
U-joints.
Drive flanges.
Engine and transmission mounts.
All those are in good shape.
Granted the first time it did it I thought for sure I was about to lose a u-joint.
Just because the knuckles have been serviced does not mean the flange and Birf are not worn.
One of the drawbacks to an AWD rig is increased wear to the front axle shafts and drive flanges.
You will have to pop off the dust cover, remove the snap ring and drive flange.
Clean off the grease and inspect the splines.
Good ones will be square and sharp.
Worn ones will be rounded off.
If they are worn you will have to replace the flange and birf.
If it all checks out then that's just the way it is.
You just have to adjust your driving technique to lessen it.
Like all things to piloting an FJ80, technique.
Worn parts will make it more pronounced.
It is an all wheel drive system with no viscous coupler to help dampen it.
There are a lot of components in this system that have lash. It's like a stacking of tolerances.
A little bit here, a bit there, more over here and it adds up.
Mine does it when I put it in drive. To mitigate that I back up the drive and pull the e-brake before putting it in park.
Then foot on brake, release the e-brake put it in drive and go forward with no clunk.
It will do it getting on and off the throttle from time to time but not to where I think there is a problem.
Just to be certain I checked.
Control arms.
Drive line slip shafts.
U-joints.
Drive flanges.
Engine and transmission mounts.
All those are in good shape.
Granted the first time it did it I thought for sure I was about to lose a u-joint.
Just because the knuckles have been serviced does not mean the flange and Birf are not worn.
One of the drawbacks to an AWD rig is increased wear to the front axle shafts and drive flanges.
You will have to pop off the dust cover, remove the snap ring and drive flange.
Clean off the grease and inspect the splines.
Good ones will be square and sharp.
Worn ones will be rounded off.
If they are worn you will have to replace the flange and birf.
If it all checks out then that's just the way it is.
You just have to adjust your driving technique to lessen it.
Like all things to piloting an FJ80, technique.
Could you put a viscous coupler in the tcase like the later 80's? There's a guy selling one on the classifieds right now.
i too have a clunk but it sounds and feels as if its coming from the center of the truck. Mine is usually when switching between F and R but only after it has driven for a bit. Or it clunks when i let off the gas and it shifts as a result. These wouldnt be drive flange symptoms would it?
I figured it was transmission/ujoints/transfercase.
I figured it was transmission/ujoints/transfercase.
You would need the entire case and a different rear drive shaft.
powermad
%##@*&^%
To be certain that what you are having is abnormal check.
Control arms.
Drive line slip shafts.
U-joints.
Drive flanges.
Engine and transmission mounts.
In no particular order.
Control arms.
Drive line slip shafts.
U-joints.
Drive flanges.
Engine and transmission mounts.
In no particular order.
powermad
%##@*&^%
Bad pinion bearings or other damage to the pinion gear will pretty much let you know they aint happy in short order.
Especially with an AWD rig.
Won't be a clunk.
Whining, grinding and howling is generally what the diffs make when they are damaged.
If there is a big clunk followed by all the above then pull over and call a hook.
Especially with an AWD rig.
Won't be a clunk.
Whining, grinding and howling is generally what the diffs make when they are damaged.
If there is a big clunk followed by all the above then pull over and call a hook.
Seriously, I have to get rid of my unwanted house guest. Spent time and money today replacing the u-joints and guess what......CLUNK
I was hoping against hope this would do it, but nope. So I'm back to square one
I know there are tons of threads on this and I'm sifting through them. But I'd really like to hear from those that have not settled to live with their clunk and have actually tackled it!!!
'91 FJ80 and I love it so far.
I love the thought of getting rid of this clunk even more
Its the side gears/spider gears in the diffs that cause that clunk multiply that by 3 diffs and that's where the slop comes from
The side/spider gears are easy to replace most diff shops will refer to it as a nest kit. The center diff will be a bit more involved, but it's the same basic parts that wear and cause the play.
I did a quick search and found this video, its's not the same diff but it shows the play that you're hearing as a clunk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXRMZlQLES4
