Key Won't Turn in Ignition

jaymar

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Very recent issue this last week or so; sometimes the key won't turn after being placed in the ignition. And sometimes it will. When it fails to turn, I'll have my foot on the brake as usual--but the wheel stays locked even when I try to get it to unlock. Now the key thing is happening almost every time. Today the wheel didn't lock at all, and the engine started. One time, after the key failed to turn, I flipped it over and it turned right away. Probable coincidence because it didn't work the next time. IIRC, trying to turn the key both ways never works; it has to be removed and reinserted--after which, it sometimes works. If this keeps progressing, at some point I'm gonna get towed home. Looking for the valet key to see if it's the same story with that. Old key from PO, might even be original, I dunno. Sometimes a problem in the driver's side door. Will not LOCK from the DS door. Locks and unlocks just fine from the PS. Doesn't work at all in the hatch. And I do have seven other keys on the keyring; never gave that a second thought--'til now.

Two other things, probably unrelated but worth mentioning just in case. The truck starts (when the key turns) immediately, without the usual 'Cruiser crank' delay. Maybe because it's been in the 90s and low 100s? And for the past, maybe hundred miles or so (just a few miles per drive), I've been coasting a lot in neutral with the heater on full blast because of an overheating issue. So there's that...

Any thoughts on this? Closest thread I could find below, but not really the same issue. Thanks for any help! (Oh, and if you're in the market for a brand-new HD winch at four bills off, check the classifieds and "help" fund my repairs!)

@BILT4ME
@ToyotaMatt

 

ToyotaMatt

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Very recent issue this last week or so; sometimes the key won't turn after being placed in the ignition. And sometimes it will. When it fails to turn, I'll have my foot on the brake as usual--but the wheel stays locked even when I try to get it to unlock. Now the key thing is happening almost every time. Today the wheel didn't lock at all, and the engine started. One time, after the key failed to turn, I flipped it over and it turned right away. Probable coincidence because it didn't work the next time. IIRC, trying to turn the key both ways never works; it has to be removed and reinserted--after which, it sometimes works. If this keeps progressing, at some point I'm gonna get towed home. Looking for the valet key to see if it's the same story with that. Old key from PO, might even be original, I dunno. Sometimes a problem in the driver's side door. Will not LOCK from the DS door. Locks and unlocks just fine from the PS. Doesn't work at all in the hatch. And I do have seven other keys on the keyring; never gave that a second thought--'til now.

Two other things, probably unrelated but worth mentioning just in case. The truck starts (when the key turns) immediately, without the usual 'Cruiser crank' delay. Maybe because it's been in the 90s and low 100s? And for the past, maybe hundred miles or so (just a few miles per drive), I've been coasting a lot in neutral with the heater on full blast because of an overheating issue. So there's that...

Any thoughts on this? Closest thread I could find below, but not really the same issue. Thanks for any help! (Oh, and if you're in the market for a brand-new HD winch at four bills off, check the classifieds and "help" fund my repairs!)

@BILT4ME
@ToyotaMatt



getting 1 new OEM CODE CUT Key ........

and trying this approach may work ?

if your current keys are worn out and smoked like most are these days ?


i CAN make that happen ,. path of least resistance


however , i have seen a thread where this internal SQUARE SHAFT small part fails ?

sorry for the vague TECH. description here , maybe some one else can chime in on that topic ?

all i need is your W- Series factory code to ROCK and ROLL out a OEM PLANT A-11 specimen asap .... :cool:




fj80 banner1 - Copy.png







69057-60030 1.jpg
 

JunkCrzr89

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The cylinders are gunked up and some of the tumblers inside are likely worn.

Step 1: Spray dry lube in and work them with the key, then spray more dry lube, then repeat. Do NOT put any grease or oil-based lube in - it will make the problem worse. You want a lube that is PTFE-based. I like this:

A316B0C5-47F3-49AE-965E-55EB02DE9A37.jpeg


Step 2: Pull the passenger front door panel and get the key code off the cylinder. Then take that code and have 2 new keys cut based on the code. Do NOT cut more copy keys of what you already have. Odds are all those keys are just copies of an already worn key.

Step 3: If you worked the dry lube in the cylinders and got a new key cut from the code but you’re still having problems, then you’ll need to pull the offending cylinders and rebuild them using this kit:


It’s surprisingly pretty easy to rebuild the ignition and lock cylinders. Can easily do all of them in a day.
 

jaymar

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Hey @To
getting 1 new OEM CODE CUT Key ........

and trying this approach may work ?

if your current keys are worn out and smoked like most are these days ?


i CAN make that happen ,. path of least resistance


however , i have seen a thread where this internal SQUARE SHAFT small part fails ?

sorry for the vague TECH. description here , maybe some one else can chime in on that topic ?

all i need is your W- Series factory code to ROCK and ROLL out a OEM PLANT A-11 specimen asap .... :cool:




View attachment 3125344






View attachment 3125343
Yeah, knew I'd wind up at your door sooner or later. Wondering if there's an immediate (even if temporary) fix to keep me rolling at the moment.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Hey @To

Yeah, knew I'd wind up at your door sooner or later. Wondering if there's an immediate (even if temporary) fix to keep me rolling at the moment.


yes ,

i do have one for you .......

it's ONLY $23 ....... :cool:


my DOOR is always open , you don't need to knock , your MUD family brother ........





ems banner.jpg
 

jaymar

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You have a handy link to getting the PS cylinder out to see the number? Had the DS out once, but that was years ago. Would be nice to know whether that's gonna fix the problem, though. Anything else it could be, other than a worn-down key?
 
Last edited:

ToyotaMatt

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i do not have any instructions , sorry

the 80 series FSM will though , BODY and Chassis


- When in comes to your 80 Series Land Cruiser's KEYS and LOCK's you ALWAYS have to think outside the TEq BOX ............





39E8FD60-D85D-43E6-9EB6-91CAB0CD0768_1_201_a (1).jpeg







16193536482741.png
 
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Very recent issue this last week or so; sometimes the key won't turn after being placed in the ignition. And sometimes it will. When it fails to turn, I'll have my foot on the brake as usual--but the wheel stays locked even when I try to get it to unlock. Now the key thing is happening almost every time. Today the wheel didn't lock at all, and the engine started. One time, after the key failed to turn, I flipped it over and it turned right away. Probable coincidence because it didn't work the next time. IIRC, trying to turn the key both ways never works; it has to be removed and reinserted--after which, it sometimes works. If this keeps progressing, at some point I'm gonna get towed home. Looking for the valet key to see if it's the same story with that. Old key from PO, might even be original, I dunno. Sometimes a problem in the driver's side door. Will not LOCK from the DS door. Locks and unlocks just fine from the PS. Doesn't work at all in the hatch. And I do have seven other keys on the keyring; never gave that a second thought--'til now.

Two other things, probably unrelated but worth mentioning just in case. The truck starts (when the key turns) immediately, without the usual 'Cruiser crank' delay. Maybe because it's been in the 90s and low 100s? And for the past, maybe hundred miles or so (just a few miles per drive), I've been coasting a lot in neutral with the heater on full blast because of an overheating issue. So there's that...

Any thoughts on this? Closest thread I could find below, but not really the same issue. Thanks for any help! (Oh, and if you're in the market for a brand-new HD winch at four bills off, check the classifieds and "help" fund my repairs!)

@BILT4ME
@ToyotaMatt

Everything in your post points to a very worn out key and possibly sticky tumblers in the ignition lock.

When my key starts to show signs of not turning in the driver's door lock or the hatch, the square "shoulders" have been worn off and it's time to change the key. I have one master key from the PO (fortunately not just the valet key) and I keep that key in a drawer, marked as "master" so the only use that key gets is to be the pattern for having new keys cut.

I have about 7 keys cut at a time because my truck is a DD and I have no key fob or alarm system, so my key is used in all the doors, tailgate, and ignition all the time, so it may see 15 cycles a day, 6 days per week.

Get a new key from Matt, then keep it in a safe, secure place. Hopefully your PO has not changed some of the locks and not others.
 

Dave 2000

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I see this on a lot of cars. Get a puffer of lock powder from the local key cutting shop. I am trying to recall the name of the stuff, if desperate run a pencil up and down the key and insert/remove and repeat. The......jeez dammit...stuff in the pencil is the same as that in the lock puffer spray, as per above don't use WD40 or any penetrating spray.

If someone knows what the 'stuff' is called please help my gray matter out!

EDIT: Don't put your key in your pocket until you have wiped it after a few uses, the 'stuff' stains your hands and clothes!

Regards

Dave
 
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I see this on a lot of cars. Get a puffer of lock powder from the local key cutting shop. I am trying to recall the name of the stuff, if desperate run a pencil up and down the key and insert/remove and repeat. The......jeez dammit...stuff in the pencil is the same as that in the lock puffer spray, as per above don't use WD40 or any penetrating spray.

If someone knows what the 'stuff' is called please help my gray matter out!

EDIT: Don't put your key in your pocket until you have wiped it after a few uses, the 'stuff' stains your hands and clothes!

Regards

Dave
Graphite!!
 

Dave 2000

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If in a hurry and need a key today your local Toyota dealer should be able to cut a new key if you bring in the vehicle registration with VIN and your driver's license. Although IME it will not the original canoe paddle type which is NLA from Toyota. Only source for that is ToyotaMatt's excellent repro key.
 
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Hey @To

Yeah, knew I'd wind up at your door sooner or later. Wondering if there's an immediate (even if temporary) fix to keep me rolling at the moment.
Go to the dealer get 2 made you will be so surprised how a new key works from them
 

ToyotaMatt

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Go to the dealer get 2 made you will be so surprised how a new key works from them




i am his Factory Toyota Certified and Trained T-TEN Master Technician Lock and Key Specialist UNICORN Dealer Concierge Service ...........


- go to THEM , and you get the aftermarket screw-job :rolleyes:




69057-90800 1.jpg





(1) - Copy - Copy.png
 
Joined
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i am his Factory Toyota Certified and Trained T-TEN Master Technician Lock and Key Specialist UNICORN Dealer Concierge Service ...........


- go to THEM , and you get the aftermarket screw-job :rolleyes:




View attachment 3127015




When I get mine from the dealership, they only need the VIN and they cut a nice clean new Toyota key, have no idea what you are suggesting but I have no problems
 

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