Key will not unlock door - Central locking works fine

[Brindleboxer]

If you find the cylinder is bad I have had a locksmith rekey a replacement cylinder to match the original locks. I did this with my current truck and saved some money versus the dealer.

You can pull the passenger side lock cylinder and a good locksmith can use to match the keys, not sure why the passenger side has the code but that is how they did it.

 

[rannon]

This is normal, turning once unlock the current door the second consecutive turn unlocks all doors.

It ended up being a rod that was disconnected from the handle mechanism behind the door - thanks for weighing in though!

 

[rannon]

If you find the cylinder is bad I have had a locksmith rekey a replacement cylinder to match the original locks. I did this with my current truck and saved some money versus the dealer.

You can pull the passenger side lock cylinder and a good locksmith can use to match the keys, not sure why the passenger side has the code but that is how they did it.

Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[rannon]

@rannon : Post up a photo of the lock cylinder and rods once the door card/panel is off.

One tip: when removing the door panel/card: do not just yank/pull on the panel. Once everything is disconnected you should pull the card out at the bottom just a few inches then push it straight UP ie: with the heel of your hand. This is because the top edge of the door panel is pinched between the window glass and the frame of the door. If you just yank on the panel you risk breaking the plastic structure at the top of the panel which is hidden under the vinyl.


This video will help:

Well, I really should of checked your reply before I dug into this yesterday - you clearly know this vehicle well! I snapped the plastic structure on top argh..... Man, gosh darn-it. I was able to visibly see that there was a bar floating around in there that needed to be reconnected somewhere and sure enough that was the problem! Now to research how to get some integrity back into that plastic support. Sheesh. Epoxy maybe?

Thanks for your time and reply!

 

[rannon]

Get new keys cut.

Not from your current keys. Off your VIN. Or off the key tag if you're lucky enough to have it.

New keys are the power off, power on solution for 80s.

I got 2 ordered from VIN!

 

[rannon]

"this key turns freely in both directions in the lock, just with no locking or unlocking results"

Already mentioned by others above, but here's some photos:

There's a metal rod that runs from the lock cylinder down to the door lock actuator that is attached by a plastic clip. If that clip breaks and the rod is no longer attached to the lock cylinder then turning the cylinder with a new key won't make a difference.


Top photo:

View looking up and in from the inside of the left front door (door panel and vapor barrier removed). Or another way to say it, you're looking at the backside of the door handle (inside the door).

The rod on the left runs from the door handle down to the door lock actuator. The lower rod with the dark red/maroon plasitc clip runs from the lock cylinder to the actuator.

View attachment 3456063

Bottom photo:

Close up of the plastic clip that holds the control rod to the lock cylinder.
If it isn't clear, when you turn the key in the door lock, the cylinder rotates pushing/pulliing the rod down or up. If the clip is broken and the rod isn't attached, no worky.

View attachment 3456064




Here's a link to a long thread showing complete servicing of the door lock cylinder; most people would not (?should not) go this far, but it does show how a door lock cylinder works. Normally just a blast of a plastic and paint safe cleaner/solvent (Not Carb cleaner or Acetone), followed by relubing the lock cylinder is good enough IME.

Servicing a door lock cylinder

I pulled the DS door handle assembly out to repair a crack in the handle and to check the lock cylinder. I'd noticed that the lock was a bit sticky and notchy so figured I'd look into it. Once I had the cylinder housing in my hand I could see when I turned the key it took half a second to...

forum.ih8mud.com

This was EXACTLY the problem - cannot thank you enough for your help. Phew! I have a working DS door now. Thank you!!

 

[BuzzAZ]

This is normal, turning once unlock the current door the second consecutive turn unlocks all doors.

Right. That would be normal. Having to turn it twice to do anything isn’t normal.

 

[rannon]

Hey guys - can you point me in the right direction on another lock issue, now on my left rear door? When turning the key in the driver's door to activate the central lock, I hear the rear door working, but the handle doesn't open the door - I have to reach around from the inside to unlock the door. This works 80% of the time. Sometimes the inner approach won't even work and the door is altogether stuck. Any ideas what might be the issue within the door that I should focus on? Thank you!

 

[Kernal]

I'm not going to write anything because you didn't read the posts before you fawked up your door panel.

If you're going to work on your own vehicle, you can't do it like this gorilla:




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------




OK, changed my mind.


You can use Epoxy (designed for plastic) to repair the cracked plastic supporting structure depending on where and how bad you broke it.
Worth a try.

There are plastic repair kits, basically you're soldering using plastic to repair plastic. Check out Eastwoods or You Tubbe to get any idea of how they work.

 

[LandLocked93]

+1 - on occasion I have had to hit the unlock button twice to get the ds rear door to unlock fully.
It is likely a crudded up door lock assy.
2 unlock maneuvers at the master ds switch has always resolved the issue so I haven't bothered to the sus it out properly.

 

[80t0ylc]

Hey guys - can you point me in the right direction on another lock issue, now on my left rear door? When turning the key in the driver's door to activate the central lock, I hear the rear door working, but the handle doesn't open the door - I have to reach around from the inside to unlock the door. This works 80% of the time. Sometimes the inner approach won't even work and the door is altogether stuck. Any ideas what might be the issue within the door that I should focus on? Thank you!

I have issues with my rear door locks, especially in cold weather. Research points to weak solenoids - age related. The rears seem to have more trouble due to design, I think. I saw a thread some time ago on mud, but can't recall the title where the owner disassembled solenoids, cleaned them up and got them working almost like new. But, if the inside lock lever sometimes won't unlock the door, sounds like the rod, from lever to lock, slips out of place or has a broken nylon keeper. Whatever it is, the door cards will have to be removed to analyze the problem. It's amazing how much crud builds up inside the doors over time. The wetter the climate, the worse it seems. Combination of debris and moisture is a killer to locking mechanisms, as well as other stuff. One thing to remember, our 80's are well over 20 yrs old. Mine will be 30 next year! maintenance is your friend on older rigs. Fix something and tomorrow it'll be something else.

 

[Kernal]

Forgot to mention, if the problem turns out to be in the actuator itself, RockAuto sells Aisin replacement rear door lock actuators for around $40 each.

 

[rannon]

I'm not going to write anything because you didn't read the posts before you fawked up your door panel.

If you're going to work on your own vehicle, you can't do it like this gorilla:




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------




OK, changed my mind.


You can use Epoxy (designed for plastic) to repair the cracked plastic supporting structure depending on where and how bad you broke it.
Worth a try.

There are plastic repair kits, basically you're soldering using plastic to repair plastic. Check out Eastwoods or You Tubbe to get any idea of how they work.

Well I’m trying my best - brand new to the 80 - thanks for the reply.

 

[rannon]

I have issues with my rear door locks, especially in cold weather. Research points to weak solenoids - age related. The rears seem to have more trouble due to design, I think. I saw a thread some time ago on mud, but can't recall the title where the owner disassembled solenoids, cleaned them up and got them working almost like new. But, if the inside lock lever sometimes won't unlock the door, sounds like the rod, from lever to lock, slips out of place or has a broken nylon keeper. Whatever it is, the door cards will have to be removed to analyze the problem. It's amazing how much crud builds up inside the doors over time. The wetter the climate, the worse it seems. Combination of debris and moisture is a killer to locking mechanisms, as well as other stuff. One thing to remember, our 80's are well over 20 yrs old. Mine will be 30 next year! maintenance is your friend on older rigs. Fix something and tomorrow it'll be something else.

Thanks so much for the info - great points. It definitely seems to be exacerbated in cold weather.

 

[rannon]

Forgot to mention, if the problem turns out to be in the actuator itself, RockAuto sells Aisin replacement rear door lock actuators for around $40 each.

Thank you!

 

[Kernal]

Don't take anything personal, just having fun (at your expense).

We all have to start somewhere, most of us including myself start from the bottom and then continue to learn from people who actually know what they're doing (and that's not me).

Post up photos of what you find.

 

[rannon]

Don't take anything personal, just having fun (at your expense).

We all have to start somewhere, most of us including myself start from the bottom and then continue to learn from people who actually know what they're doing (and that's not me).

Post up photos of what you find.

Valid haha fire away

I sure will!

 

[rannon]

"this key turns freely in both directions in the lock, just with no locking or unlocking results"

Already mentioned by others above, but here's some photos:

There's a metal rod that runs from the lock cylinder down to the door lock actuator that is attached by a plastic clip. If that clip breaks and the rod is no longer attached to the lock cylinder then turning the cylinder with a new key won't make a difference.


Top photo:

View looking up and in from the inside of the left front door (door panel and vapor barrier removed). Or another way to say it, you're looking at the backside of the door handle (inside the door).

The rod on the left runs from the door handle down to the door lock actuator. The lower rod with the dark red/maroon plasitc clip runs from the lock cylinder to the actuator.

View attachment 3456063

Bottom photo:

Close up of the plastic clip that holds the control rod to the lock cylinder.
If it isn't clear, when you turn the key in the door lock, the cylinder rotates pushing/pulliing the rod down or up. If the clip is broken and the rod isn't attached, no worky.

View attachment 3456064




Here's a link to a long thread showing complete servicing of the door lock cylinder (which doesn't seem to be your problem); most people would not (?should not) go this far, but it does show how a door lock cylinder works FWIW.

Normally just a blast of a plastic and paint safe cleaner/solvent (Not Carb cleaner or Acetone), followed by relubing the lock cylinder is good enough IME.

Servicing a door lock cylinder

I pulled the DS door handle assembly out to repair a crack in the handle and to check the lock cylinder. I'd noticed that the lock was a bit sticky and notchy so figured I'd look into it. Once I had the cylinder housing in my hand I could see when I turned the key it took half a second to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you for these pictures!

If you find the cylinder is bad I have had a locksmith rekey a replacement cylinder to match the original locks. I did this with my current truck and saved some money versus the dealer.

You can pull the passenger side lock cylinder and a good locksmith can use to match the keys, not sure why the passenger side has the code but that is how they did i

Valid haha fire away

I sure will!

Hi all,

Can someone help me narrow down what issue I am currently dealing with with the locks?

The push button on the interior handle of the backseat driver door doesn’t turn with the auto lock. Nor does it really lock or unlock the door manually. Every now and then pushing the button from the inside will lock or unlock the door, but the button itself is pretty sticky. All bars seem to be connected.

Any ideas?

Thank you.

 

[80t0ylc]

Hi all,

Can someone help me narrow down what issue I am currently dealing with with the locks?

The push button on the interior handle of the backseat driver door doesn’t turn with the auto lock. Nor does it really lock or unlock the door manually. Every now and then pushing the button from the inside will lock or unlock the door, but the button itself is pretty sticky. All bars seem to be connected.

Any ideas?

Thank you.

Is the door lock button sticky with the door card (panel) removed? On my '94, the rear door button bars (links to locks) are kinda squished by the panel when installed. At one time, I thought that's why they were sluggish when the auto lock was used. But further research revealed, as I've already mentioned, that the solenoids weaken with age and exposure to dirt and grime inside the doors. On mine, the buttons feel "sticky" too, but they've never failed to lock or unlock the doors when the auto lock fails.

 

[Brindleboxer]

Thank you for these pictures!


Hi all,

Can someone help me narrow down what issue I am currently dealing with with the locks?

The push button on the interior handle of the backseat driver door doesn’t turn with the auto lock. Nor does it really lock or unlock the door manually. Every now and then pushing the button from the inside will lock or unlock the door, but the button itself is pretty sticky. All bars seem to be connected.

Any ideas?

Thank you.

Try spraying some white lithium grease into the mechanism, may help the "sticky" feeling. If that doesn't work then you may be looking at the solenoid as mentioned above.