Keeping it level while towing - Airbags; Timbrens or new springs? (18 Viewers)

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Joined
Jun 10, 2019
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Location
Atlanta, GA
'18 LC - pretty stock except for the front coil spacer to level it out and 285x65x18 AT tires. LC sits nice and level unloaded; great looking stance. But I've upgraded my boat (Robalo 246 Cayman ~ 4000lbs; unsure of tongue weight - its on order and about 1 month out still) and expect once hitched it'll be too 'squatty' on the highway for my occasional long tows (300miles to the coast).

I'm considering:
  • Firestone airbags - would like an auto leveling system or at least remote fill system if I go this route -OR-
  • Timbren SES - seem like a DIY easy solution but will they work with the leveling spacer already upfront? -OR-
  • Upgraded springs - but which ones? I don't want a harsh highway ride and don't want the front rake to return

So, given that I don't want to re-introduce front rake now that she's level and I also don't want to impact the highway ride unloaded (99% of my driving), what do you recommend? Anyone have experience?

TIA!
 
Agree, airbags are The best bet. If you want to maintain level (no rake stance) when unloaded then there is no magic bullet spring to do that and then take a load and not sag. Airbags really are the way. I’ve run them on other trucks in the past with great success. Tee or no tee, I could see merits both ways but it depends on if you spend time softroad or hard Offroad. I’ll leave others to comment.

I run timbrens on my 100 but they really aren’t tall enough to be a good solution unless you have a really heavy load and then you’re running on the sides of the axle housing the whole time— which isn’t ideal as I’m told. They are also progressive rate, but if you unload them quickly on a bumpy road and compress again quickly, like a corrugated road, the ride can be harsh.

I run a heavy progressive rate spring on my 200 because I tow a horse trailer. These are great but they leave a good rake when I’m unloaded. I like the rake, but understand why folks don’t.
 
Likewise I agree airbags are the answer. It's the only one that's adjustable for load while maintaining the goodness of the factory ride when unladen. I would also not T the lines to @Whiskerz point. That reduces stability, because in situations like a turn, air will move from the side needing the most support, to the side that has the least resistance. That's exactly opposite the behavior needed.

Timbren likes to market their system for towing, but IMO, it's not the right solution as it works more like an overload spring, and engages only when the suspension is compressed. I believe you're looking for something that increases the spring rate at ride height to eliminate sag.
 
Agree, airbags are The best bet. If you want to maintain level (no rake stance) when unloaded then there is no magic bullet spring to do that and then take a load and not sag. Airbags really are the way. I’ve run them on other trucks in the past with great success. Tee or no tee, I could see merits both ways but it depends on if you spend time softroad or hard Offroad. I’ll leave others to comment.

I run timbrens on my 100 but they really aren’t tall enough to be a good solution unless you have a really heavy load and then you’re running on the sides of the axle housing the whole time— which isn’t ideal as I’m told. They are also progressive rate, but if you unload them quickly on a bumpy road and compress again quickly, like a corrugated road, the ride can be harsh.

I run a heavy progressive rate spring on my 200 because I tow a horse trailer. These are great but they leave a good rake when I’m unloaded. I like the rake, but understand why folks don’t.
What springs are you using? TIA.
 
Loved my airbags on my 80, for daily construction towing, and highway runs with 7 adults and a full roof box. Install looks a bit more challenging on the 200, and I don't really tow much these days.

1630681565988.jpeg
 
You have already received the best advice for your specific scenario - especially if dead level every other day is your preference. The alternative I have not seen mentioned yet though is a lighter variable rate spring in the rear. That way if you do end up with a rear bumper or a set of laden drawers you wont get as much compression in the rear. I think you would have a slight rake day one though. The Dobinsons C59-559V has 1" lift from stock. So not too bad, but not level.
 
You have already received the best advice for your specific scenario - especially if dead level every other day is your preference. The alternative I have not seen mentioned yet though is a lighter variable rate spring in the rear. That way if you do end up with a rear bumper or a set of laden drawers you wont get as much compression in the rear. I think you would have a slight rake day one though. The Dobinsons C59-559V has 1" lift from stock. So not too bad, but not level.
In my experience, the C59-559V has more than 1” of lift on a stock truck. More like 1.5, but I suspect it’s because I don’t run drawers, so I’m mostly stock weights With a little modest weight I could see losing a half. On my truck, I have a little rake but when I load it up with my trailer on these springs, it rides level. The springs perform well loaded or unloaded And I’ve been happy with them.
 
Why not use a tee fitting?

Stability.

If you've ever used anything filled with air, perhaps an inflatable pool toy, mattress, boat, etc... When putting a load or pushing on it, you can feel that air will try to move to the area of least resistance, make stability challenging. Sure, pressure makes it feel more stable, but that doesn't change how fundamentally, air will try to move if it can.

By connecting the airbags - in a turn, there is naturally more leaning force on the airbag at the outside of the turn. And conversely, less force on the inside of turn airbag. Air will try to move out from under the side where the support is most needed. For a heavily laden rig, this can have more negative impacts, causing the air to move where it's least needed, and worst still, actually push up on the inside suspension, creating more lean.

Can it work with a T, sure. Can it work better as independent circuits, yes. Bonus of independent circuits is that allows leveling when car camping.

There's a great little place to hold two valves under the tailgate cover

1630786524027.png
 
You have already received the best advice for your specific scenario - especially if dead level every other day is your preference. The alternative I have not seen mentioned yet though is a lighter variable rate spring in the rear. That way if you do end up with a rear bumper or a set of laden drawers you wont get as much compression in the rear. I think you would have a slight rake day one though. The Dobinsons C59-559V has 1" lift from stock. So not too bad, but not level.

Any advice on that compressor setup for an auto-leveling setup? Remote control, non-auto is OK as well. But I don't want to deal with carrying a small compressor.
 
Any advice on that compressor setup for an auto-leveling setup? Remote control, non-auto is OK as well. But I don't want to deal with carrying a small compressor.

IMHO, a compressor for suspension air bags is way overkill. If you have other compressor uses, fine, but otherwise just use a bicycle pump. The airbags take a silly small amount of air to go from 4 psi to 20 psi, the range I normally use (not towing and towing, respectively). I haven't counted the pumps, but it's only a few and really quick for each fitting. Once you get the psi right for level towing with your rig, you can be very consistent in filling the bags.
 
Stability.

If you've ever used anything filled with air, perhaps an inflatable pool toy, mattress, boat, etc... When putting a load or pushing on it, you can feel that air will try to move to the area of least resistance, make stability challenging. Sure, pressure makes it feel more stable, but that doesn't change how fundamentally, air will try to move if it can.

By connecting the airbags - in a turn, there is naturally more leaning force on the airbag at the outside of the turn. And conversely, less force on the inside of turn airbag. Air will try to move out from under the side where the support is most needed. For a heavily laden rig, this can have more negative impacts, causing the air to move where it's least needed, and worst still, actually push up on the inside suspension, creating more lean.

Can it work with a T, sure. Can it work better as independent circuits, yes. Bonus of independent circuits is that allows leveling when car camping.

There's a great little place to hold two valves under the tailgate cover

View attachment 2777391
I I actually have mine (single) routed up next to the gas filler neck. I think am going to remove th Tee and run independent. Thx for the note!
 
Any advice on that compressor setup for an auto-leveling setup? Remote control, non-auto is OK as well. But I don't want to deal with carrying a small compressor.

ARB offers an airbag control module that allows the control of each airbag’s pressure via a mobile app (it’s Bluetooth enabled) or their proprietary Linx unit. Search YouTube and Google for “ARB air suspension module” and you should get plenty of video results; here is one:




You would, of course, need a compressor to make this set-up function as intended, but I think it’s the best option for an air bag set-up.
 
I had the same issues towing a heavy boat, Nautique G23, that weighs 5900# empty. I went the firestone airbag route with independent fill. I mounted mine on the bottom side of the bumper by replacing the push in plastic bumper rivets. I have towed the boat from Boise, ID to Charlotte, NC and back, twice now and I couldn't be happier. It's so simple. Sometimes I think about adding onboard air, but it's more cost and complication than needed considering how/ when I use it... Boat trips and camping. Good luck.
 
Stability.

If you've ever used anything filled with air, perhaps an inflatable pool toy, mattress, boat, etc... When putting a load or pushing on it, you can feel that air will try to move to the area of least resistance, make stability challenging. Sure, pressure makes it feel more stable, but that doesn't change how fundamentally, air will try to move if it can.

By connecting the airbags - in a turn, there is naturally more leaning force on the airbag at the outside of the turn. And conversely, less force on the inside of turn airbag. Air will try to move out from under the side where the support is most needed. For a heavily laden rig, this can have more negative impacts, causing the air to move where it's least needed, and worst still, actually push up on the inside suspension, creating more lean.

Can it work with a T, sure. Can it work better as independent circuits, yes. Bonus of independent circuits is that allows leveling when car camping.

There's a great little place to hold two valves under the tailgate cover

View attachment 2777391
This is great input @TeCKis300. I had never considered how the system would react in a leaning situation. I had my single hose run up right next to my ARB compressor under the hood. But I am taking the rig into the shop on Wednesday to have them replace my setup with one like yours. Only downside is that the hose for my ARB compressor may not reach to the rear of my LC (though I may be able to run it back through the cabin). Of course as @Sandroad says, I could use a bike pump but I don’t want to carry one with me.

Here is how I have it now.

8F7BBB51-AB0A-4B0B-90CF-CEB1EDF22706.jpeg
A2B05369-B0EB-4F04-94D1-7894E6C4A155.jpeg
 
ARB offers an airbag control module that allows the control of each airbag’s pressure via a mobile app (it’s Bluetooth enabled) or their proprietary Linx unit. Search YouTube and Google for “ARB air suspension module” and you should get plenty of video results; here is one:




You would, of course, need a compressor to make this set-up function as intended, but I think it’s the best option for an air bag set-up.

I just installed all of this.

Arb Linx and an arb dual with manifold plus air pressure control for the main air hose so you can set what pressure you want to fill up to or deflate your tires to. And dual airbag pressure control.

This with the IRONMAN FCP and Firestone airbags. If you plan to go higher then 35psi order the airbag man with sleeves.

It’s awesome. I can change airbag settings on the fly. It’s so trippy setting it to 15psi while driving on the freeway and feel the rear firm up. I’ll be posting more info soon in a separate thread.

It’s great to monitor pressures too in case you start losing pressure while driving. I can maintain the 5psi minimum and always know there is no leaks.
B64E6924-7623-4D9F-92C2-38F361C5C59E.jpeg
 
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I just installed all of this.

Arb Linx and an arb dual with manifold plus air pressure control for the main air hose so you can set what pressure you want to fill up to or deflate your tires to. And dual airbag pressure control.

This with the IRONMAN FCP and Firestone airbags. If you plan to go higher then 35psi order the airbag man with sleeves.

It’s awesome. I can change airbag settings on the fly. It’s so trippy setting it to 15psi while driving on the freeway and feel the rear firm up. I’ll be posting more info soon in a separate thread.

It’s great to monitor pressures too in case you start losing pressure while driving. I can maintain the 5psi minimum and always know there is no leaks.View attachment 2790456
Have you got a list of parts you used for this? Did you install yourself or take to a shop?
 

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