KDSS Light - EXPENSIVE!! (1 Viewer)

[cgs2k2]

Well... a few weeks ago the KDSS light came on my dash. It appears after about 5 minutes of driving, regardless of whether I'm taking sharp turns or just driving in a straight line. It goes away when I shut the car off and turn it back on, but then returns 5 minutes later. The driving dynamics of the vehicle have really not changed much, but I also don't drive it too much or too aggressively. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer (I NEVER go to the dealer unless I have to) ... and holy s***... almost $4000 quote. Apparently the module on the frame under the driver seat has corroded itself to death and the system is low on pressure. If they do the lines too it will be another $3000 but they are not sure it is necessary yet. I live in NE Ohio and we get a lot of salt on our streets in the winter. I take great care of my frame, but never thought to clean and oil this module.

Thought it over and I am NOT going through with the service. My GX is a 2012 with 145k miles on it, and although I do have money "invested" into it with modifications and upkeep, etc. it is PAID off and IMO not worth putting $7k into. It is a nearly 12 year old vehicle after all.

I think I am going to swap out the standard load Old Man Emu springs I have for some heavy duty ones. I did that on my Tacoma that I ran with no sway bar and it honestly made up for it (for the most part). I'm also thinking of throwing some spidertrax spacers on the wheels to get a little bit more trackwidth for cheap. I run 255/80r17s and they are pretty skinny and tucked inboard. I think the extra width will give at least marginally more stability for a couple hundred bucks, why not.

ANYWAY - just a story for you all and warning to clean that thing out, spray it with some sort of oil or salt protectant in the winters. Anyone else have any experience with expensive KDSS repairs?

 

[cgs2k2]

Also, it is evidently not as simple as just re-pressurizing the system since there is a leak and will just leak again. I almost wish this was a serviceable system. It's pretty closed and the only time you really need to touch it is when s*** hits the fan, and at that point the repairs seem to be extremely expensive regardless of what the problem is.

 

[SouthTxGX]

Get with dr kdss and see what his opinion is on all of this. He seems to be very knowledgeable about all aspects of the kdss system and while he probably doesn’t have parts to fix it, he could probably point you in the right direction and let you know if the dealerships opinion is legit. Kdss system parts can be replaced, but dealerships usually just want to replace everything.

 

[cgs2k2]

Get with dr kdss and see what his opinion is on all of this. He seems to be very knowledgeable about all aspects of the kdss system and while he probably doesn’t have parts to fix it, he could probably point you in the right direction and let you know if the dealerships opinion is legit. Kdss system parts can be replaced, but dealerships usually just want to replace everything.

Good call - thank you for the rec. I will definitely reach out.

 

[Washingtontaco]

If its at a point in the life of the vehicle that 7k is not worth it remove the entire KDSS system.

 

[cgs2k2]

If its at a point in the life of the vehicle that 7k is not worth it remove the entire KDSS system.

I don't know if its worth the effort. If its on there and just vestigial I don't mind. If removing it would allow me to replace it with some non-KDSS sway bars, etc. then I would definitely consider removing it.

I've seen some 4runner folks remove the KDSS system or essentially tie it back in order to run long-travel. Not sure that is the route I want to go, but we will see

 

[Washingtontaco]

I don't know if its worth the effort. If its on there and just vestigial I don't mind. If removing it would allow me to replace it with some non-KDSS sway bars, etc. then I would definitely consider removing it.

You would at minimum need to replace the steering knuckles to put 4Runner knuckles in to attach the stabilizer bars to.

 

[ericm979]

Can you DIY it? You can find the parts significantly cheaper than the usual dealer price and you would save on the labor. There's tutorials on pressurizing the system yourself or you could take it to the dealer just for that.

 

[Jstawgn]

You would at minimum need to replace the steering knuckles to put 4Runner knuckles in to attach the stabilizer bars to.

They all have swaybar holes on the knuckle bit the front swaybar bolt holes are not there. Need to use nutsert or weld the nut in.

You could source KDSS solenoid module and lines used and pressurize the system using hydrostatic pump and R134a his side Fittings.

 

[Acrad]

It is good idea to at least annually clean out and apply a protective film to the KDSS accumulator. Debris does collect there. The cover is easily removable.

KDSS Info / Problems / Discussion - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

GX - 2nd Gen (2010-present) - KDSS Info / Problems / Discussion - I have a 2010 Lexus GX460 bought in 8/2010. I live in Wisconsin. The vehicle has 49000 miles as of 5/2015. The vehicle has been running great until the winter of 2013/2014 when the KDSS light starts to flash from time to time. I...

www.clublexus.com

 

[Hiluxforever]

This would be the point where I would start eyeballing a long travel setup and currie anti-rock.

I make sure to spray the KDSS module after every big snow storm or offroading drive.

 

[cgs2k2]

They all have swaybar holes on the knuckle bit the front swaybar bolt holes are not there. Need to use nutsert or weld the nut in.

You could source KDSS solenoid module and lines used and pressurize the system using hydrostatic pump and R134a his side Fittings.

do you have any more info on converting to non-kdss front sway bar? i've seen some threads but cant find great detail about what parts are needed and level of effort. this would probably be the easiest option that I'd take if I can get some more detail

**edit: I found a really good thread on a 4runner forum. definitely looks feasible - the nuts you discuss welding in would be on the frame near where the kdss ram is if i'm not mistaken. maybe something i will look into, but currently really leaning toward just throwing some heavy coils on this thing and taking it easy

 

[Jstawgn]

do you have any more info on converting to non-kdss front sway bar? i've seen some threads but cant find great detail about what parts are needed and level of effort. this would probably be the easiest option that I'd take if I can get some more detail

**edit: I found a really good thread on a 4runner forum. definitely looks feasible - the nuts you discuss welding in would be on the frame near where the kdss ram is if i'm not mistaken. maybe something i will look into, but currently really leaning toward just throwing some heavy coils on this thing and taking it easy

There are no threaded holea for the front swaybar on the frame. You need to drill, insert nutsert or remove crash bar and insert swaybar relocation bracket inside the frame while bolting the front swaybar to chassis.

Rear swaybar bracket also does not exist on the axle housing. You need to make and weld the swaybar bracket or replace the housing with the one from non KDSS.

 

[cgs2k2]

There are no threaded holea for the front swaybar on the frame. You need to drill, insert nutsert or remove crash bar and insert swaybar relocation bracket inside the frame while bolting the front swaybar to chassis.

Rear swaybar bracket also does not exist on the axle housing. You need to make and weld the swaybar bracket or replace the housing with the one from non KDSS.

got it. sounds about right from what I saw in that t4r thread.

i went ahead and ordered wheels spacers and the heavier spring rate front coils. going to give this approach a shot and see how it goes. even now im on medium duty coils front and rear with no added weight up front and 3rd row + spare removed, and the truck honestly still feels pretty planted when i did some "fake" evasive maneuvers (i know it would be different in a real life situation).

on my lifted 2012 tacoma i ran no front sway bar for a couple years. i remember going from softer OME 885 springs to firmer 886 springs and it basically made it feel like my sway was back on. hoping to get the same-ish effect here.

 

[Hiluxforever]

got it. sounds about right from what I saw in that t4r thread.

i went ahead and ordered wheels spacers and the heavier spring rate front coils. going to give this approach a shot and see how it goes. even now im on medium duty coils front and rear with no added weight up front and 3rd row + spare removed, and the truck honestly still feels pretty planted when i did some "fake" evasive maneuvers (i know it would be different in a real life situation).

on my lifted 2012 tacoma i ran no front sway bar for a couple years. i remember going from softer OME 885 springs to firmer 886 springs and it basically made it feel like my sway was back on. hoping to get the same-ish effect here.

You could go with a currie anti-rock

 

[JDUB fab]

You could go with a currie anti-rock

This was my thought as well. But damn the kdss s*** is expensive. Good to know.
Personally I’d go full long travel FTW.

 

[Acrad]

You can pick up new accumulators on eBay for the $750-$1000 range

48006-60031

I’ve seen used ones for around $350.. the rear lines are lot more expensive than the front ones.

Front Lines:

Search Results | OEM Vehicle Parts

www.oemvehicleparts.com

Rear Lines:

Search Results | OEM Vehicle Parts

www.oemvehicleparts.com

48880-60051 - Tube Assy, Rear Stabilizer Control, No.1, Toyota OEM | Megazip.net

48880-60051 - Tube Assy, Rear Stabilizer Control, No.1, Toyota. New spare parts Toyota from Japan with easy payment system and door-to-door delivery.

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Toyota 48880-60050 (4888060050) TUBE ASSY, REAR STABILIZER CONTROL, NO.1

Toyota 48880-60050 (4888060050) TUBE ASSY, REAR STABILIZER CONTROL, NO.1. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

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Schematic

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Lexus&ssd=%24%2AKwFvW0p9bChrDxwyPihNXzcjAwQaIzIbIiZ-NGd-AXhxfjh7PjlrIyoyPh0neTpnKCx9fmxib29qaSYmNn81L3hnfHkJRVhXEH53en8xOHs-KjQIDhFraGwXdENBQgcXGHhxfHkvZygsfX5vbGULeXUkKHA0OHlgfW0mAAAAAFQU14M%3D%24&vid=0&gid=482&q=

 

[Hiluxforever]

This was my thought as well. But damn the kdss s*** is expensive. Good to know.
Personally I’d go full long travel FTW.

Also, some folks have experimented and you actually get more articulation with Currie Antirock then without on an IFS setup

 

[cgs2k2]

You can pick up new accumulators on eBay for the $750-$1000 range

48006-60031

I’ve seen used ones for around $350.. the rear lines are lot more expensive than the front ones.

Front Lines:

Search Results | OEM Vehicle Parts

www.oemvehicleparts.com

Rear Lines:

Search Results | OEM Vehicle Parts

www.oemvehicleparts.com

48880-60051 - Tube Assy, Rear Stabilizer Control, No.1, Toyota OEM | Megazip.net

48880-60051 - Tube Assy, Rear Stabilizer Control, No.1, Toyota. New spare parts Toyota from Japan with easy payment system and door-to-door delivery.

www.megazip.net

Toyota 48880-60050 (4888060050) TUBE ASSY, REAR STABILIZER CONTROL, NO.1

Toyota 48880-60050 (4888060050) TUBE ASSY, REAR STABILIZER CONTROL, NO.1. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

Schematic

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Lexus&ssd=%24%2AKwFvW0p9bChrDxwyPihNXzcjAwQaIzIbIiZ-NGd-AXhxfjh7PjlrIyoyPh0neTpnKCx9fmxib29qaSYmNn81L3hnfHkJRVhXEH53en8xOHs-KjQIDhFraGwXdENBQgcXGHhxfHkvZygsfX5vbGULeXUkKHA0OHlgfW0mAAAAAFQU14M%3D%24&vid=0&gid=482&q=

Thanks for the helpful links! Definitely would save money on parts. I'm a decent wrench and do most of my own work, but for some reason working on this system, especially in its rusty, corroded state is really off putting to me.

 

[cgs2k2]

I did get the Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on front and rear this evening. Took it for a little spin. Seems more planted from my butt feel going around some round abouts at speed, slamming on the brakes, and taking some quick turns - but could all be in my head haha. OME 886 springs have been ordered and hope to get those on in the next few weeks to replace my 885s.

Looks decent with my 255/80r17 skinny 33s. Looks like I will have some rubbing on the cab mount on full flex, but very minimal. Will flex it out tomorrow and see. Hoping I can just grind down the cab mount a bit rather than needing a full-on chop.