- Thread starter
- #21
I have. Well, a shop has done this, and it did solve the problem of after-lift-lean. However, this weird problem with the piston keeps coming back.
I’ll try running the kdss spacer up front. Can’t make things worse.
KDSS front sway bar off kilter (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter drowzyGX
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have. Well, a shop has done this, and it did solve the problem of after-lift-lean. However, this weird problem with the piston keeps coming back.
I’ll try running the kdss spacer up front. Can’t make things worse.
Can you post a head-on pic showing the KDSS cylinder and link, and how the swaybar sits in those now? I'm curious to see how things are/aren't aligned.
what I’m suggesting is to leave the valves open for a while and drive it, maybe do some figure eights in a parking lot. If it doesn’t reoccur, the problem is probably in the accumulator. This is an odd enough problem that I don’t think it’s an alignment issue.
- Thread starter
- #25
great question. that one hasn’t been inspected to my knowledge. if re-installing the sway bar is an indicator, then I think it’s in good shape because the fixed link doesn’t move a bit when trying to maneuver things. will inspect it visually when I can get under the truck this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #26
Got it. That has not been done yet. I may leave that test up to a shop like ACC because I don’t want to mess things up and have to pay for the refill of the kdss system.
- Thread starter
- #27
Will get one tonight if I can get under the truck while it’s still light out, or this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #28
OP delivers. Took lunch today to check the sway bar and take some pictures.
it doesn’t look like the sway bar is terribly off kilter. Maybe it isn’t a kdss issue (hopefully).
it looks like it could be a bushing, but not the bushing you might have guessed. I’ve replaced the 4 bushings on the various sway bar connection points.
on either side of where the sway bar attaches to the fixed link and the kdss piston, there’s 2 “bands” that look like they’re supposed to help keep the bushing in place (from sliding to either side). The inner ones look solid. The outer ones are rubber rings with a metal zip tie / clamp holding them in place.
the one on the fixed arm has a lot of play! See the pics. Anyone know if this can be replaced oem?
it doesn’t look like the sway bar is terribly off kilter. Maybe it isn’t a kdss issue (hopefully).
it looks like it could be a bushing, but not the bushing you might have guessed. I’ve replaced the 4 bushings on the various sway bar connection points.
on either side of where the sway bar attaches to the fixed link and the kdss piston, there’s 2 “bands” that look like they’re supposed to help keep the bushing in place (from sliding to either side). The inner ones look solid. The outer ones are rubber rings with a metal zip tie / clamp holding them in place.
the one on the fixed arm has a lot of play! See the pics. Anyone know if this can be replaced oem?
Well that's interesting. I would have expected it to be two metal rings to keep the bushings in place.
That looks like a CV boot clamp, so you can absolutely replace that with another CV boot clamp of the correct size. Most good auto parts stores like Napa have an assortment of sizes. Then you'll need the correct pliers to crimp it.
Or... just use a stainless steel hose clamp!
Random hose clamp note: the "Euro" style hose clamps with the raised threads on the band are way better than the regular style with slots cut into the band.
- Thread starter
- #30
right?? The metal lip makes way more sense to me.
Well that is fantastic news. Seems like an easy place to start. Figure I can remove the existing clamp and take it by O’Reilly’s tonight to check for a replacement.
Confirmed with Lexus they do not offer the rubber bushing and clamp as a part, gotta get the whole stabilizer bar. So hopefully the clamp replacement fixes this.
There's no way I would pay for a replacement bar, if anything I would get as creative/custom/ghetto fab as needed to make a replacement clamp solution.
Heck, even a metal shaft collar would work and be a significant upgrade *IF* you could find one the exact inner diameter as the swaybar's outer diameter.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
- Thread starter
- #32
Great advice. Thank you! I’ll do some research the next few days and try to figure out the best solve.There's no way I would pay for a replacement bar, if anything I would get as creative/custom/ghetto fab as needed to make a replacement clamp solution.
Heck, even a metal shaft collar would work and be a significant upgrade *IF* you could find one the exact inner diameter as the swaybar's outer diameter.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
Even a welder could tack a ring around it if it’s just slippery and moving.
I had that thought, but I would be very hesitant to weld on a swaybar. It's effectively a torsion spring and it would eventually snap at the HAZ.
good point. Roughening up the surface and a clamp of whatever sort would be pretty good, but there is a lot of force being exerted to twist the bar across like that, this is a strange one.
ETA - a newer model wrecker pull might be a viable plan too.
- Thread starter
- #36
Gonna check out places like car-part.com and the local pick-n-pulls. If it comes to needing a new sway bar to fix it, I can snag oem online for a little over $300. Not terrible if it will actually fix it.
for now I’m gonna try a new clamp. If it holds? Perfect! If it holds at least for a little bit before slipping? At least the cause is identified. If it doesn’t hold at all...back to the drawing board, lol.
for now I’m gonna try a new clamp. If it holds? Perfect! If it holds at least for a little bit before slipping? At least the cause is identified. If it doesn’t hold at all...back to the drawing board, lol.
I’d quickly rough the surface a little too for more hold. A couple light file swipes is all I’d say.
I would be worried about potentially compromising the structure of the bar with a file, if the edge digs in a bit. Sandpaper would be a good option though.
If whatever is clamping onto the bar has minimal gap and full contact around the bar, a light coating of RTV would also help hold everything in place.
- Thread starter
- #39
Hey Y’all,
thanks a ton for all the advice and input here. This is super helpful! Love hobbyist / enthusiast forums like mud.
Probably a stupid question, but for RTV, are you suggesting putting it around the sway bar and then putting the rubber bushing on top of it and clamping it down? Or clamp down the gasket then put rtv on the side of it? I think it’s the former but want to make sure.
I don’t have a file, but I have everything else. So I think I’ll clean the sway bar, spray paint to touch up the spots where the paint has worn, and then do some very light sanding where the loose bushing goes. Finally, apply some rtv and clamp down the bushing.
Fingers crossed this solves things. If not, I think my next step is a trip to ACC garage when they’ve got some availability, and pay the pros to troubleshoot. Figure there’s not too many folks in GA that know this truck like they do.
thanks a ton for all the advice and input here. This is super helpful! Love hobbyist / enthusiast forums like mud.
Probably a stupid question, but for RTV, are you suggesting putting it around the sway bar and then putting the rubber bushing on top of it and clamping it down? Or clamp down the gasket then put rtv on the side of it? I think it’s the former but want to make sure.
I don’t have a file, but I have everything else. So I think I’ll clean the sway bar, spray paint to touch up the spots where the paint has worn, and then do some very light sanding where the loose bushing goes. Finally, apply some rtv and clamp down the bushing.
Fingers crossed this solves things. If not, I think my next step is a trip to ACC garage when they’ve got some availability, and pay the pros to troubleshoot. Figure there’s not too many folks in GA that know this truck like they do.
You got it, a very light coating of RTV between the clamped-on bushing and the swaybar could help hold on it in place. And if it doesn't work it's easy to clean off.
