- Thread starter
- #41
Awesome - thank you!
KDSS front sway bar off kilter (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter drowzyGX
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- Thread starter
- #42
So this has turned into a real hassle, lol.
went to 4 parts stores near me, and none has cv boot clamps thin enough to work. The ones on the sway bar are no wider than a standard zip tie. So I’m gonna have to try and order em online.
I ordered new bolts for the sway bar brackets that mount to the LCA. The part # according to everywhere - dealer, parts.lexus.com, etc. - is 9011912386. This is the 2nd time I’ve ordered 4 of these bolts. The 1st time was this past august when I got new LCAs.
the bolts from Lexus were the same both times. So I know they match the part #. However, they do not match the bolts that came off the truck. The ones that came off the truck are shorter and have a much thicker washer. They also have notches cut in the
from the truck is on the left, from dealer is on the right
Notches
they’re in the same spot on all the bolts (ones from the summer and now). So I’m pretty sure they’re supposed to be there. I’ve double checked the part # with the dealer, with parts.lexus.com and few other parts sites using my vin. It’s the right part #. Very confused here.
the length of the bolt shouldn’t matter because the holes on the LCAs go straight through. To avoid cross threading new LCAs, I tested them in the old ones last summer, and I couldn’t get them to sit flush with the sway bar bracket. The washer spun.
confused by this one lol
went to 4 parts stores near me, and none has cv boot clamps thin enough to work. The ones on the sway bar are no wider than a standard zip tie. So I’m gonna have to try and order em online.
I ordered new bolts for the sway bar brackets that mount to the LCA. The part # according to everywhere - dealer, parts.lexus.com, etc. - is 9011912386. This is the 2nd time I’ve ordered 4 of these bolts. The 1st time was this past august when I got new LCAs.
the bolts from Lexus were the same both times. So I know they match the part #. However, they do not match the bolts that came off the truck. The ones that came off the truck are shorter and have a much thicker washer. They also have notches cut in the
from the truck is on the left, from dealer is on the right
Notches
they’re in the same spot on all the bolts (ones from the summer and now). So I’m pretty sure they’re supposed to be there. I’ve double checked the part # with the dealer, with parts.lexus.com and few other parts sites using my vin. It’s the right part #. Very confused here.
the length of the bolt shouldn’t matter because the holes on the LCAs go straight through. To avoid cross threading new LCAs, I tested them in the old ones last summer, and I couldn’t get them to sit flush with the sway bar bracket. The washer spun.
confused by this one lol
Why are you replacing the bolts?
- Thread starter
- #44
Call it neurotic, but I’ve had the sway bar removed and put back on so many times that I wanted the peace of mind knowing the bolts were new. It was like $8 for 4 of them.
anyway, the new ones work fine. I’m guessing Toyota superseded the old ones.
also learned that the ties on the outer rubber bushings are actually stainless steel cable ties! It explains why I had so much trouble finding cv clamps so thin.
Ordered some that should be here in a few days.
I guess the bolts make sense, though probably not necessary. Those bolts will last longer than the truck unless a monkey with a wrench rounds off the heads.
For those cable ties - do you have a tensioning tool? Otherwise they won't get tight enough to hold anything in place like a CV clamp would. The hose clamp option would be better.
- Thread starter
- #46
So this is the same clamp that is on the sway bar.
went ahead and ordered some of the panduit clamps on Amazon. Also found a cv clamp kit for an atv that’s got 5mm width clamps. Just slightly wider than the 4.6mm of the cable ties. Already got the cv clamp tool.
buddy of mine does network installs. Can probably bum a tensioning tool from him if the 5mm clamps are too wide.
@rommelrommel @Mr Chuck Norris thanks a ton for your input and help here!
Glad to help! And hopefully something here works, otherwise we'll be measuring for those 2pc split shaft clamps from McMaster. 
- Thread starter
- #48
Oh man, fingers crossed. The longer this car sits without the sway bar, the more honey-do projects I get from my gf for borrowing her car, lolGlad to help! And hopefully something here works, otherwise we'll be measuring for those 2pc split shaft clamps from McMaster.
- Thread starter
- #49
So, update here. The sway bar repair was easy. Cleaned it, painted, scuffed up the area under the loose rubber bushing, applied some rtv, and tightened the hell out of the stainless steel cable tie.
let it sit for 48 hours and it’s rock solid.
problem: the reason the bolts were loose is the top bolt holt on the passenger LCA is totally stripped. Must have happened when the shop did the kdss reset.
options:
- order new LCA ($400)
- tap new thread in existing LCA to accommodate a slightly wider bolt
- take my old LCA to local shop for new bushings and ball joint
is option 2 viable? Would it just be drilling out the bolt hole a little bit then tapping new threads?
edit: I don’t think drilling out and tapping a larger diameter bolt will work. The LCA just has a large nut welded to it behind the bracket. Wondering if the right move would be removing the nut and replacing it?
gonna get a longer M12 bolt with a nut. Use that with thread locker temporarily.
Then I can either:
- put new bushings and a ball joint in my old LCA
- take this LCA to a shop near me and have them weld a new nut in place of the old, stripped one.
let it sit for 48 hours and it’s rock solid.
problem: the reason the bolts were loose is the top bolt holt on the passenger LCA is totally stripped. Must have happened when the shop did the kdss reset.
options:
- order new LCA ($400)
- tap new thread in existing LCA to accommodate a slightly wider bolt
- take my old LCA to local shop for new bushings and ball joint
is option 2 viable? Would it just be drilling out the bolt hole a little bit then tapping new threads?
edit: I don’t think drilling out and tapping a larger diameter bolt will work. The LCA just has a large nut welded to it behind the bracket. Wondering if the right move would be removing the nut and replacing it?
gonna get a longer M12 bolt with a nut. Use that with thread locker temporarily.
Then I can either:
- put new bushings and a ball joint in my old LCA
- take this LCA to a shop near me and have them weld a new nut in place of the old, stripped one.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Tried that today. The nut welded to the back of the bracket is pretty beefy. Adding another nut to the back of it plus a long enough bolt, and I’m worried it will rub where the bottom of the coilover
Drill out the weld nut, or grind it off if you can get to it from behind. Then install a Riv-nut in the correct M12 size. Easy peasy.
Or if the longer M12 bolt with nut holds up, keep running that. Just chop down the bolt to reduce interference.
Or if the longer M12 bolt with nut holds up, keep running that. Just chop down the bolt to reduce interference.
- Thread starter
- #53
ooh I like the riv nut option for a longer term fix!
cut the bolt with a hack saw. will run it tomorrow and see how the nut holds. hopefully it holds at least until I can pull the LCA and get a more permanent fix.
Guy I talked to at Ace recommended a local mechanic who could weld a new nut on. May go that route, too.
stupid question, but I don’t have to worry about the riv nut coming loose with the stress on the sway bar, right?
If properly installed, it'll be fine. I don't like the DIY nut/washer Rivnut method, either borrow a tool or buy a specific Rivnut install nut (it has a machined face with a raised lip to interface snugly with the Rivnut).
Once installed correctly the torque of the bolt keeps the Rivnut snug as well.
- Thread starter
- #55
Appreciate the call about using a proper rivnut tool. I actually just got done watching a video on the diy approach, lol.
I’ve never installed one before, but it looks like I’d just need slide it in from the back of the LCA bracket (where the nut used to be)? Once installed, thread the bolt on through from the front.
Man, if you ever make it to Atlanta I owe you a beer! Really appreciate your insight in this thread. If it isn’t abundantly clear, this is the first truck ive ever wrench on. Learning a lot from your advice.
I’ve never installed one before, but it looks like I’d just need slide it in from the back of the LCA bracket (where the nut used to be)? Once installed, thread the bolt on through from the front.
Man, if you ever make it to Atlanta I owe you a beer! Really appreciate your insight in this thread. If it isn’t abundantly clear, this is the first truck ive ever wrench on. Learning a lot from your advice.
Glad to help!
And the Rivnut will install from the front. The hole will probably need to be enlarged, and then the Rivnut slides into the hole. Once it's compressed the portion in the back expands to act just like the existing weld nut.
And the Rivnut will install from the front. The hole will probably need to be enlarged, and then the Rivnut slides into the hole. Once it's compressed the portion in the back expands to act just like the existing weld nut.
- Thread starter
- #57
thanks for the info on the riv nut. Seems like a great fix for that stripped nut.
all this work and back to square 1.
drove a circle around the driveway and it slipped half an inch.
There isn’t play in either of the out rubber bushings. They’re rock solid. Not sure why it’s slipping.
I should have just bought a non-kdss GX….
all this work and back to square 1.
drove a circle around the driveway and it slipped half an inch.
There isn’t play in either of the out rubber bushings. They’re rock solid. Not sure why it’s slipping.
I should have just bought a non-kdss GX….
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This picture is what I've been waiting for!
The swaybar is not level - notice that the KDSS cylinder side is lower than the fixed link side.
Install the front KDSS spacer you have. It will lower the bar on the left side and even out the forces on the bar.
Or not. But it's worth a try!
Well, I’m back to thinking that pressure is building in the KDSS piston and driving the sway bar out of alignment. I do think the next diagnosis step I would take is to leave the shudder valves opened and drive around a bit.
Or try the spacer, that’s easy too.
