KDSS Delete (2 Viewers)

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First Week Impressions

TL;DR- Very satisfied with the results. I think my KDSS system was not performing properly. The truck doesn’t feel like it is fighting itself anymore. I have more lateral stability in bumpy corners. I do feel more road imperfections.

Ever since I had a local shop put my original King setup on the truck, I’ve not been happy with how the truck rides. The Kings were under valved, and there was a lack of a panhard correction options until Eimkeith and Dr KDSS started supporting the 200 platform.

The best way to describe my overall impression of my truck prior to the swap is it felt like the suspension system was fighting itself whether traveling straight line or cornering. I don’t think that is the general impression of the KDSS system, so I believe I am the outlier and my system was not performing like it should. There were a few bubbles that escaped when I bled the accumulator and some “contaminants” as well that were pictured in a previous post.

I installed the Dr KDSS BOTCK on the KDSS setup (as a final attempt to satisfy my complaints before this undertaking), so that variable is accounted for. The other variables are the airbags and tire pressures. Neither of those were adjusted during or after the swap.

Through all of the hardware changes and compression/rebound setting adjustments, I was not able to find stability with bumps while cornering. A bump would unsettle the truck enough that I had developed steering wheel behaviors to correct for the bumps on roads I drive every day (this was a very interesting discovery). This problem was exacerbated in the heat of summer afternoons which made balance of the truck was unpredictable through corners. It’s also a worthy mention that straight line bumps were harsh and jarring.

Well, that’s all gone. With the OEM mechanical bars, I have more lateral stability in corners at speed and a little more steering “bite.” The truck seems to track better on a heavily crowned road I travel daily, so there’s an unanticipated improvement. I do feel more of the roads being transmitted to the steering wheel, but straight line bumps are no longer jarring.

I do have rubbing on the sway bars on both sides at full lock. The right side is the real deal and worse than anything I had with the KDSS and the left side is under compression.

I am very satisfied with my decision.
 
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@empty80. Thank you so much for this thread. I have some comments and questions.
I have a 200. Just installed Ironman FCPs. Huge lean. 3+””. No surprised. My Shutter valves are rotten as is my entire KDSS valve body. Truck was a cheap rot box 13” I’ve been rehabbing back to functional to tow a travel trailer.

I’d like to delete the KDSS. I’ve taken every sway bar off every Toyota I’ve ever owned after adding FCPs. With zero issues. In fact I’m convinced it’s the way to go at this point.

Here’s the questions.
1. I know you added solid sway bars. Would you do the delete again and on a budget just leave it like that. No sway bars, No KDSS.
2. Could you ever reinstall the KDSS. Or is touching it the kiss of death and it’s gone for good.
3. I’ve read the thread a few times and made an account just to comment. Why did you get a whole new axle? I didn’t see the reasoning behind that.

Note. I did the FCP upgrade in order to have some better handling on a long trip we’re taking to FL with a travel trailer. After doing VT to ID and back with the OEM 10+ year old clapped suspension it was well overdue. But the KDSS Lean is to much to deal with and short of welding a nut on the valve which I’ll try tomorrow I doubt this truck will ever be level left/right again.
I’m convinced even if I get the valves open that the end links on the passenger side are the so short that the KDSS cannot compensate for the new springs/struts. Which are just the factory height and weight.

Thanks again for giving me this idea. Seemed crazy but I think it’s just because 200s are still considered “new” but my trucks almost 11 years old. And I can do whatever I want. Luckily you don’t have these battles on the 80 series.

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@empty80. Thank you so much for this thread. I have some comments and questions.
I have a 200. Just installed Ironman FCPs. Huge lean. 3+””. No surprised. My Shutter valves are rotten as is my entire KDSS valve body. Truck was a cheap rot box 13” I’ve been rehabbing back to functional to tow a travel trailer.

I’d like to delete the KDSS. I’ve taken every sway bar off every Toyota I’ve ever owned after adding FCPs. With zero issues. In fact I’m convinced it’s the way to go at this point.

Here’s the questions.
1. I know you added solid sway bars. Would you do the delete again and on a budget just leave it like that. No sway bars, No KDSS.
2. Could you ever reinstall the KDSS. Or is touching it the kiss of death and it’s gone for good.
3. I’ve read the thread a few times and made an account just to comment. Why did you get a whole new axle? I didn’t see the reasoning behind that.

Note. I did the FCP upgrade in order to have some better handling on a long trip we’re taking to FL with a travel trailer. After doing VT to ID and back with the OEM 10+ year old clapped suspension it was well overdue. But the KDSS Lean is to much to deal with and short of welding a nut on the valve which I’ll try tomorrow I doubt this truck will ever be level left/right again.
I’m convinced even if I get the valves open that the end links on the passenger side are the so short that the KDSS cannot compensate for the new springs/struts. Which are just the factory height and weight.

Thanks again for giving me this idea. Seemed crazy but I think it’s just because 200s are still considered “new” but my trucks almost 11 years old. And I can do whatever I want. Luckily you don’t have these battles on the 80 series.

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View attachment 3532344
Is the taller rear spring on the drivers or passenger side? Make sure it’s passenger. If they’re swapped it might cause 1.5 to 2” of lean.

You can also add some OME trim packers to the top of the rear spring on the low side to help level it. I think 20mm or so is doable.

I haven’t deleted kdss but I believe the axle swap was required to use a sway bar as the KDSS bar mounting is different than the non-KDSS (including LX). But if you go without a sway bar then no you don’t need a new axle
 
@empty80. Thank you so much for this thread. I have some comments and questions.
I have a 200. Just installed Ironman FCPs. Huge lean. 3+””. No surprised. My Shutter valves are rotten as is my entire KDSS valve body. Truck was a cheap rot box 13” I’ve been rehabbing back to functional to tow a travel trailer.

I’d like to delete the KDSS. I’ve taken every sway bar off every Toyota I’ve ever owned after adding FCPs. With zero issues. In fact I’m convinced it’s the way to go at this point.

Here’s the questions.
1. I know you added solid sway bars. Would you do the delete again and on a budget just leave it like that. No sway bars, No KDSS.
2. Could you ever reinstall the KDSS. Or is touching it the kiss of death and it’s gone for good.
3. I’ve read the thread a few times and made an account just to comment. Why did you get a whole new axle? I didn’t see the reasoning behind that.

Note. I did the FCP upgrade in order to have some better handling on a long trip we’re taking to FL with a travel trailer. After doing VT to ID and back with the OEM 10+ year old clapped suspension it was well overdue. But the KDSS Lean is to much to deal with and short of welding a nut on the valve which I’ll try tomorrow I doubt this truck will ever be level left/right again.
I’m convinced even if I get the valves open that the end links on the passenger side are the so short that the KDSS cannot compensate for the new springs/struts. Which are just the factory height and weight.

Thanks again for giving me this idea. Seemed crazy but I think it’s just because 200s are still considered “new” but my trucks almost 11 years old. And I can do whatever I want. Luckily you don’t have these battles on the 80 series.

View attachment 3532343

View attachment 3532344
To answer your questions:
1) If doing it again, I would do the rear mechanical bar again. It’s just my personal preference.

2) It’s not a kiss of death unless you do what I did and saw the hydraulic lines off the truck. If the lines are there and internally clean, then refitting the pistons shouldn’t be too complicated. The downside is having the dealerships repressurize isn’t cheap, and purchasing the SST isn’t cheap either. The hydraulic fluid is AHC fluid, and contamination-free fluid availability was a thing when I started evaluating options.

3) @linuxgod is correct. The KDSS-equipped axles do not have the mounting point on the left side of the axle for the mechanical bar.

If time isn’t critical, one of my favorite methods for loosening seized bolts is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. It works, it just takes a little while defending on how bad it is seized.

In a shameless plug, I do have all of the takeoff KDSS components (except the lines) in the classifieds.
 
I'm putting serious thought into a KDSS delete on my 2010 LC , I deleted the X something hydraulic shock system on my 07 runner and never looked back. My question IS,,,, does ANYONE make the needed bracket for the driver side bar mount for the rear axle?? Maybe EIMKIETH (sp?) or another fab guy? I would rather weld a bracket to my axle ( I've done this plenty building hot rods) than shell out the long green for a whole new axle housing. Just a thought, Mitch. Thanks.....
 
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I'm putting serious thought into a KDSS delete on my 2010 LC , I deleted the X something hydraulic shock system on my 07 runner and never looked back. My question IS,,,, does ANYONE make the needed bracket for the driver side bar mount for the rear axle?? Maybe EIMKIETH (sp?) or another fab guy? I would rather weld a bracket to my axle ( I've done this plenty building hot rods) than shell out the long green for a whole new axle housing. Just a thought, Mitch. Thanks.....

I can see a market for this and @eimkeith skills and business seem to be a good fit this type of product
 
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