Kaymar Installation (1 Viewer)

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Dec 3, 2003
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Does anybody have any input on how easy or not it is to put the Kaymar rear bumper on? Is it a two person job and does it require drilling anywhere - Man-a-fre wants $337 to install it and that seems like robbery!? :doh: Thanks!
 
1.5 :banana:

I brought it home and installed it on the driveway. It's heavy so a helper is useful for the lift onto the frame. Then it's just installing and turning a quite few bolts.

There are some holes to drill so a strong 1/2 inch drill with a proper bit is helpful. Also a tap if you wish to thread the holes for the latch. (I did and it's still working fine.)

Finally, a little electrical work to wire the tail lights and license plate.

Then it's :beer: time !
 
K -

I second Jim's comments: Pretty easy if you have a helper to deal with the weight of the thing.

Also, Jim's reference to drilling holes applies only if you are also installing the optional swing gates for the tire or can carrier. The bumper itself requires no drilling.

If you end up with both an ARB (extra lights) and the Kaymar (extra lights), you will want to consider upgrading the flasher to a unit that can handle the added bulbs.

R -
 
Now how would one go about upgrading the flasher? I assume this means a new relay but is there more to it than this and were does one source a new relay?
 
Your flasher is a plug in unit. It's behind the left front kick panel.

-B-
 
D -

One heavy-duty flasher that works well is the Stant/Tridon EP36, available through Kragen (out here in the west). No doubt there are many others, but experience has shown that the CarQuest / Grote flasher source books list an incorrect part that blows fuses because the pin-outs are incorrect for Toyota trucks.

Cheers, R -
 
[quote author=ParadiseCruiser link=board=2;threadid=12503;start=msg114649#msg114649 date=1078356129]

K -

I second Jim's comments: Pretty easy if you have a helper to deal with the weight of the thing.

Also, Jim's reference to drilling holes applies only if you are also installing the optional swing gates for the tire or can carrier. The bumper itself requires no drilling.

If you end up with both an ARB (extra lights) and the Kaymar (extra lights), you will want to consider upgrading the flasher to a unit that can handle the added bulbs.

R -
[/quote]

If you do add the tire carrier/gas can holder, make sure you have really good drill bits or lots of :beer: I predrilled smaller holes first, but it still took forever to get through all that steel.
C-Dan could smell smoke, but I also up'ed my parking light/brake light fuses by 5amps. When I plug in a trailer with both ARB/Kaymar lights on it was blowing fuses. Hey, at least I didn't use tin foil :D

Yomama
 
Yeah, I second the drilling taking forever. The instructions for the tire carrier (if it's the same one as used on the 60, which it probably is [6 hole bolt pattern) say that for 100's and 80's, you need to drill and tap the holes (they specify the tap) and use the short bolts. If it's a hilux/60/70, you use the long bolts w/ nuts. The holes I had to drill were close to 1/2" in diameter through all that steel, and I used a cobalt bit w/ cutting oil. If one could somehow use a drill press, it would be a cinch. :) I don't know if the MAF price ($75/hr) includes wiring up the hella taillights? I went to a muffler shop when I installed my ARB bullbar...a couple of Mexicans did all the grunt work, I just had to tell them exactly what to do. Labor was only $50 for that.
 
Thanks to all. Just a couple questions then - I take it that EP36 is the model number and Kragen will recognize the part by it? Do you need to upgrade fuses also and does it just plug in? And finally what is a kick panel - is it the easily openable panel by drivers leg? Thanks again
 
[quote author=ParadiseCruiser link=board=2;threadid=12503;start=msg114926#msg114926 date=1078416161]


D -

One heavy-duty flasher that works well is the Stant/Tridon EP36, available through Kragen (out here in the west). No doubt there are many others, but experience has shown that the CarQuest / Grote flasher source books list an incorrect part that blows fuses because the pin-outs are incorrect for Toyota trucks.

Cheers, R -
[/quote]

It only blows 2 fuses :whoops: Don't ask me how I know :doh:

One in the dash fuse panel and one under the hood. It "pops" them "right now" :D
 
[quote author=krich97 link=board=2;threadid=12503;start=msg115000#msg115000 date=1078422624]
And finally what is a kick panel - is it the easily openable panel by drivers leg?
[/quote]

Yes - next to the dead pedal. You should hear the flasher clicking with the blinkers on (easy way to locate it).
 
Man-a-fre ended up giving me a deal on the install so I had them do it. I took them three hours and from what I gathered it was a tough install. The holes did not line up perfectly and they had to slightly slot two of them (the back two) with a grinder (I only own a dremmel and this would have been tough/taken a long time) Any way it looks great - and I appreciate all of the input I recieved here!
 
Will do, but it could take a little while - I have a digital camera but had trouble last time I tried to down load - I'll figure it out. I didn't get the tire carrier yet (short on cash and wife was complaining about being able to load kid stuff) but I do have the dual pivot bumper - if nothing else it adds a little protection next to the tail lights! I didn't know this but the Kaymar also has side braces (sort of like the Slee) and there was nothing but plastic and a thin bracket protecting the rear corners before! I figured the first money I spent would be on protecting my initial investment. Then . . . ?Ome? Super charger? (maybe someday)
 
I am looking forward to replacing both the front and rear bumpers on mine too. The PO allowed me to inherit a nice dent in the DS rear plastic end cap...which gets me to thinking...would you be willing to part with yours as i assume you took off a stock bumper to install your new one.

Let me know.
 
I am currently undecided what to do with my stock parts - Compared to the front bumper there rear stuff takes up much less garage space. I guess I would prefer to sell all three pieces together but I if I decide to sell or give away I will let you know - maybe pm me so I can follow up later (in case I forget this conversation) I will say however that the PO in my case also put a dent in the DS side plastic - it is pretty fixable though - if you remove the plastic piece there is a thin metal bracket that you possibly could straighten (unless it is really mangled) and the dent should pop out of the plastic part - then reassemble and voila!- that is what I was started to do but since I park on the street alot I realised that It was probably gonna happen again so . . . Kaymar
 
Hank,

I got a nice sized dent in one of my rear end caps (pre-Slee). C-Dan showed me the light and all you have to do is crawl under it with something like a BFH or something to pry with. It will pop right out and you'll never remember where the dent was.

1/10 banana.

-B-
 
sweet thanks for the info...i will hop under there and get my 1/10 bananna arse in gear.

:)
 
Ok, so it's been a year.. :flipoff2: but I finally got around to upgrading my flasher. I bought a Tridon Stant EP 36, per the suggestions above. But it's not the same as the flasher that I just removed from my truck? What am I missing here??? :confused:

flasher on the left is the EP36, on the right the Toyota one. I seem to be missing something...
EP_36.jpg
 
I never had to tap any holes on mine, and I have both tire carrier and can carrier. Mine came with big plates with welded nuts that slipped behind the rear crossmember, so I just drilled through the bumper, and all the way through the crossmember, and bolted through to these plates. BTW, with both accessories, you have a total of ten bolts just on the rear face of the bumper alone holding it to the chassis. Friggin' SOLID!

Oh, and I have not replaced the flasher, and I do have all those ARB and Kaymar bulbs burning. No problems so far.
 

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