K&N air filter use opinions

[7000ft]

I'm considering installing a K&N air filter in my 2020 LC200. I asked a Toyota Master mechanic about using one and he said that there is no gain in fuel mileage or performance. He also made an additional comment regarding the reoiling of the K&N airfilter. He said If the air filter is over oiled it will throw MAF codes.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[TLC2013]

I don't mess with those oil type filters. Used them in the past on different vehicles. Not worth the mess and headache of cleaning and then worry about fauling the MAF. I have had good experience with the dry filters from AFE on one of my other cars but for my 200 I just stick with the factory filter.

 

[gaijin]

I'm considering installing a K&N air filter in my 2020 LC200. I asked a Toyota Master mechanic about using one and he said that there is no gain in fuel mileage or performance. He also made an additional comment regarding the reoiling of the K&N airfilter. He said If the air filter is over oiled it will throw MAF codes.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

After trying the K&N filter myself, I agree with everything the Toyota Master Mechanic said.

HTH

 

[El Skywalker]

I'm considering installing a K&N air filter in my 2020 LC200. I asked a Toyota Master mechanic about using one and he said that there is no gain in fuel mileage or performance. He also made an additional comment regarding the reoiling of the K&N airfilter. He said If the air filter is over oiled it will throw MAF codes.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I use the K & N cabin filter and it does what it a supposed to do.
I will be using the air filter as well when it comes time to replace it.

The product has served me well in other Toyota vehicles and I will be using the same for the 200.

 

[LCH21]

This will probably start an argument but there are studies done by independent labs (can do a search) that in short, the oil used on filters does NOT cause a problem with the MAF. The air flow through the filter at wide open throttle in feet per second is not sufficient to pull the oil off the filter. I'm not going to get into the other details. I have run K&N and the TRD versions for many years on engines (4 different SUVs) that had over 240,000 miles each and not had a problem. The thing is, any benefit you see will be minimal at best and the filter allows more gunk through. When I traded in my Tundra with the TRD version filter, the intake was covered in dust. Also, MAFs get covered with combustion by-products anyway when the engine is shut off. That is why you get that oily grime in the intake. My recommendation is to not waste your money on these filters and stick with OEM. They flow just fine and filter better. For many years, I was one of those suckers that on every car I got, I did the CAI, headers and flow-through exhaust nonsense costing thousands of dollars and the gains were not really there. Oh, I sure imagined they were, but in reality more wishful thinking to justify the cost than measurable gains. Also, I don't care who makes the headers or how well they are made, they will eventually crack at the Ys and will not stay bolted up to the head. Again, don't waste your money. I wish I had all that money I spent on that stuff as now, I would use it on a top-notch suspension lift, tires, re-gear and lockers! Oh well, live and learn. The Slee skids are supposed to be delivered today but the roads are very icy. Boo.

 

[Artie]

My thought on these has always been that if you’re increasing flow then you’re giving up filtration. The small gain isn’t worth the hassle of having to clean and oil that thing every 50k, I know because I’ve ran a couple before and I never felt like I got the gain and the hassle was lame. I can throw in a OEM filter in a couple minutes.

If I was in need of some HP gains the only real option is a Harrop, everything is is nickel and dimes.

 

[bloc]

I question why anyone feels they need this over the $23 stock filter that shows zero evidence of restricting power, and lots and lots of evidence of great filtration performance and long life.

If the goal is to gain power on an otherwise stock vehicle.. I have a bridge to sell you.

If the goal is to buy fewer other filters by reusing one, keep $23 every 30k miles in mind and consider a filter minder to only replace it when it's actually needed.

One thing I would consider for filtration performance is to add filter grease to the edges of the stock filter, as there is plenty of evidence that our airbox design can allow small amounts of unfiltered air past the flange seal, probably because the distance between the clamps on the stock airbox is too large for how stiff the box itself is, and the box can flex. This problem would be present with K&N as well.

 

[UPR LC]

Engine air filtration is not something I would experiment with. I used K&N filters back in my youth, no benefit over OEM. But there are drawbacks. So for me, keep it OEM.

 

[kcjaz]

I question why anyone feels they need this over the $23 stock filter that shows zero evidence of restricting power, and lots and lots of evidence of great filtration performance and long life.

If the goal is to gain power on an otherwise stock vehicle.. I have a bridge to sell you.

If the goal is to buy fewer other filters by reusing one, keep $23 every 30k miles in mind and consider a filter minder to only replace it when it's actually needed.

One thing I would consider for filtration performance is to add filter grease to the edges of the stock filter, as there is plenty of evidence that our airbox design can allow small amounts of unfiltered air past the flange seal, probably because the distance between the clamps on the stock airbox is too large for how stiff the box itself is, and the box can flex. This problem would be present with K&N as well.

but the K&N will offset the flow I lost with my snorkel and then I can drive over the bridge I just bought faster....

 

[Fisher23]

I have never had one throw a MAF code ever. Maybe if it was not cleaned correctly?

They are a pain to clean so I usually alternate, paper then K&N then paper till I get around to cleaning the K&N.

I don't see any advantage of using the K&N on the LC200 for what I use the 200 for. Other vehicles yes but not the LC200.

 

[NTV]

I use an AFE dry filter on my 200 and find the really thick rubber gasket seals extremely well on the factory air box. I keep a OEM filter on hand so when I clean the AFE I can let it dry and still drive the rig. AFE does not use oil just cleaner. After long dusty Utah trips no evidence of dusting past the filter.

 

[TeCKis300]

This was a single day jaunt in the deserts of SoCal. I wouldn't trust a K&N to filter out this level of fine dust. I've used them previously for road going sunny day sportscars. But I don't trust aK&Ns, or any aftermarket filter for that matter in harsh silt conditions.

I keep 2 filters in rotation. A clean daily use filter. And an off-road filter that I'll put in only off-road fun. I'll swap back in the clean one after a trip, blow out the off-road one and keep it on the shelf for the next off-road trip.

 

[doru]

I have to say that you should use the right tool for the job.
In my built Volvo I will not run OEM filters as they are restrictive (this is not seat of the pants but measured properly by auto engineers). I use aftermarket oily filters (not K&N because I do not like the fit on that particular application) and I never had an issue with "oil".
For the truck there is no performance need demonstrated that require a higher flow filter. But if you get the supercharger that is another story.

Technically there is no issue with a quality oily filter and after my 20+ years experience with those filters I do not agree with the tech's opinion. That is a stereotype like any other. It was based on people over-oiling the filter after cleaning. Done properly there are no issues.

So to the OP, your decision should rest on reusability (reusable better), cost (more expensive up front but about the same or cheaper in the long run especially if you go desert riding/washing often), and effort to wash and oil it (some people do not like to bother, wait to dry, etc.).

 

[Markuson]

I'm considering installing a K&N air filter in my 2020 LC200. I asked a Toyota Master mechanic about using one and he said that there is no gain in fuel mileage or performance. He also made an additional comment regarding the reoiling of the K&N airfilter. He said If the air filter is over oiled it will throw MAF codes.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Used them for a bit…but I concluded there was nothing to be gained…except a lot more hassle with oil and crud. Filters are cheap and effective.

Instead….. Add one of these (see below) and you’ll save even more time and money by only changing plain-ol’-filters when they NEED it…rather than blindly following mileage or time, which may…or may not…reflect need-to-replace at all. This little device lets you know when the filter is dirty enough to matter:

 

[bloc]

I have to say that you should use the right tool for the job.
In my built Volvo I will not run OEM filters as they are restrictive (this is not seat of the pants but measured properly by auto engineers). I use aftermarket oily filters (not K&N because I do not like the fit on that particular application) and I never had an issue with "oil".
For the truck there is no performance need demonstrated that require a higher flow filter. But if you get the supercharger that is another story.

Technically there is no issue with a quality oily filter and after my 20+ years experience with those filters I do not agree with the tech's opinion. That is a stereotype like any other. It was based on people over-oiling the filter after cleaning. Done properly there are no issues.

So to the OP, your decision should rest on reusability (reusable better), cost (more expensive up front but about the same or cheaper in the long run especially if you go desert riding/washing often), and effort to wash and oil it (some people do not like to bother, wait to dry, etc.).

Again, the factory filter is $23 and lasts 30k miles unless operating in dusty environments where an oiled gauze filter would be even more of a hazard anyway.. that’s 0.076 cents per mile, while offering much better filtration performance to keep the engine healthy.


MAF oil fouling isn’t the only issue with oiled gauze filters, they just don’t clean the intake air as well. This may not be an issue for a track car or “built” whatever with differing priorities, but if actually having dust/abrasive-free air flowing into an engine to reduce wear and maintain engine life matters, OE-style filter media performs better, period.

 

[KLF]

The air filter on these engines is huge, there's no way the K&N will do anything for performance.

When i bought my FJ62, it had a K&N in the air box. When i pulled it out to clean it the first time, I was surprised at how small it was. Switched back to OEM. Which one would you want protecting your engine?

 

[yellowgeko]

the new(ish) k&n “select” filters are dry. I think I read that they are actually rebranded AEM filters. I bought one and compared it to the oem. The k&n is definitely thinner and does not seem to have as much media to filter it. But the seal on the k&n is much thicker and seems to seal better.

I have not seen any empirical evidence that oem is better than the dry “select” k&n, but if anyone has anything I am all ears. Lots on how bad the oil filter are vs oem.

I am torn between returning k&n and getting another oem or trying it out. The AEM filters seem to get really positive reviews (which is the k&n select). I like the re-usability, just like the oem one on my 80 series, which was a huge draw for me.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

They don't filter well, I've seen tests done and the only filter I'd use that wasn't a genuine one is Terrain Tamer. Don't remember the exact figures but off the cuff, if factory is 100%, terrain tamer was about 99, K&N was about 60%. Wouldn't touch one on any vehicle I owned.

 

[04UZJ100]

I have to say that you should use the right tool for the job.
In my built Volvo I will not run OEM filters as they are restrictive (this is not seat of the pants but measured properly by auto engineers). I use aftermarket oily filters (not K&N because I do not like the fit on that particular application) and I never had an issue with "oil".
For the truck there is no performance need demonstrated that require a higher flow filter. But if you get the supercharger that is another story.

Technically there is no issue with a quality oily filter and after my 20+ years experience with those filters I do not agree with the tech's opinion. That is a stereotype like any other. It was based on people over-oiling the filter after cleaning. Done properly there are no issues.

So to the OP, your decision should rest on reusability (reusable better), cost (more expensive up front but about the same or cheaper in the long run especially if you go desert riding/washing often), and effort to wash and oil it (some people do not like to bother, wait to dry, etc.).

The right tool for the job is the one generally designed by Mr T. There are exceptionally few instances where something aftermarket is better than OEM - especially on a Land Cruiser.

 

[White Stripe]

I would say you'll get more gain with headers. The dyno numbers I've seen show a set of Doug Thorley headers really help the 5.7. Here is a dyno before and after Doug thorley headers on a supercharged 5.7.